I need a place to start safely.

Trying to get your Spree/Elite to run, or run better? Post your questions here.

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Gloworm5
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I need a place to start safely.

Post by Gloworm5 »

I first want to thank everyone associated with this site. It seems to be well organized and full of great advice. Thank you ever so very much. This is a great site!

I have recently been given an 86 Honda Spree to get running if I can. It has only 400 miles logged on it. But, I have been told it has been sitting in a garage for at least 15-18 years. As it would have it, it had a nearly full fuel tank and oil tank. The tank is fully rusted and, of course, the fuel is down right offensive. I've located the great articles on how to clean both tanks.

I believe the piston is stuck and I don't want to force anything. I believe it would end up damaging the motor for sure.

I would really appreciate some recommendations as a good starting place to concentrate my efforts to see if the scooter is worth fixing it up or not.

Here a few of the things I know are problems:
Front tire will not hold air at all.
One of the mirrors is busted.
Of course the battery is history.
The turn signal switch is busted.
The keys to the scooter have been lost.
Other than that, the Spree seems to be mostly intact.

I know very little about the scooter. I have no pressure to get it running by a certain date.

So, I am hoping to get some guidance as to what to work on first. I assume the engine being frozen up is the most important but maybe you would be better in that area.

Most of the postings I have read are about specific problems.
I need some guidance.

Thanks
Gloworm5
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bradthreee
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Re: I need a place to start safely.

Post by bradthreee »

I would say its safe to start with downloading the Spree manual located on this site if you havent already done so.

Next I would say take the top end off and see what's going on in there. I'd bet its "frozen" because of dried old fuel like you suspect.

I like using "seafoam" to clean gummed up carbon deposits and dried up fuel. I also use spray carb cleaner and a brush.

Once you get that piston free, clean the carb thoroughly or send it off to USPmale for a rebuild. Drain all the old fluids ie. fuel and oil and clean out the strainers. Clean the petcock too but be careful with the plastic diaphram inside. I like using WD-40 for that one.

It would be wise to invest in a new base and head gasket during reassembly.

You seem like you'll do fine :thumbsup:
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bradmeehan
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Re: I need a place to start safely.

Post by bradmeehan »

You can get by without a key with the 86 - at least until you get it running.

Under the horn cover in the front, there is a white plastic quick-connect joining some wires. If you unplug that, you can kickstart it without the key. The bad news is, so can scooter thieves.

Also, i had an old-rusty 86 that i acquired that i thought had a frozen engine. Turned out the kickstart key was jammed. It's easier to take off the 6 bolts holding that kickstart cover than pulling the head. Rule that out first.

The other missing/broken pieces are abundant and easily replaced. Get it running first.
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1986 Spree (Big Bore)
1985 Aero 50
1985 Aero 80
1988 Elite 50 (SB50)

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devenex
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Re: I need a place to start safely.

Post by devenex »

I agree with Brad...meehan (sorry B3 :oops:) about removing the kicker cover to check if the cylinder is frozen. You should be able to spin the front pulley by hand if the piston isn't locked up. You might as well do this to check the belt as well.

Either way with the piston, make sure to take the spark plug out and put a teaspoon of 2-stroke oil in cylinder since its been sitting so long. Note that when you do get it fired up the first time this will create a HUGE cloud of smoke, so don't worry if/when that happens.
1986 Spree w/ '87 SE50 motor
1985 Aero 50 w/ Dio motor: On Hold
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Wheelman-111
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Re: I need a place to start safely.

Post by Wheelman-111 »

Greetings:

One of the things that can lock up a piston is a crankcase full fo GN-2. If it sat that long, there's at least a possibility that the pump has steadily leaked over the eons until there's enough non-compressible fluid to prevent tickover.

If so, you're in luck! That oil also coats all the rust-prone machined-steel surfaces and preserves them nicely. The oil can be poured (or vacuumed) out.
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