elite s/r questions carb tuning.

[Elite50USD]

alllright, so i've got an 01 elite s, which i just took the restriction out of the exhaust and put in an 82 jet and punched out the second airbox hole. i have a ton more get up and go and it tops out right around 31 mph which is what i expected considering i still have the clutch restrictor plate on it. the m'f'er runs really well but it's still running lean. looking at the plug it is light tan on the porcelain and grayish on the electrode tip.. from what i hear that is lean. :[ what do i do? do i need to upjet? what do the screws on the carb do? I know the top one is idle adjust but what is the bottom one do? it seems to adjust the idle a bit too. How do i set the idle? I know 1800rpm is what i want but without a tach, how do i do that?

[trains420]

with the second hole punched out on a sa50 94-01 elite, use an 85, 88 jet. i've used a 90. or even a 90.
uhm your scooter has the restriction in variator it's a sa50p. it also has, a washer welded in the muffler. and a slower oil pump.
the other screw on the carb, is air/fuel mixture screw. and to set idle, then set your idle back until it almost starts dying, then turn it up, and do this on teh stand, and when the back wheel starts turning back it up just a little bit, enough to keep the back wheel from spinning, it also keeps the clutch from getting torn up. and as long as your clutch grab springs are stock, should be around 1800 rpm or before clutch engagement. if you have other springs.. it would be higher rpm, and just don't want it dying out. and you don't want the rpm that high to waste that much gas while idling. but that's how you do it, by ear. just don't let the back tire spin, while on the stand and warmed up.

[Elite50USD]

my bad, i have the s with the washer taken out of the exhaust and the air box punched out. how do i properly adjust the air/fuel screw?

also, the main jet on a stock s is 68. stock main jet on an sr is 78.. i'm running an 82 which should be more than enough, no?

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

The lowermost screw on the carb bowl is just a drain plug. Leave alone. The middle brass screw is the adjustment for the air-fuel mixture adjustment when the Main jet is out of the equation: The needle obstructs the Main circuit at least partially below 3/4 throttle.

Set that Idle to roughly 1.5 turns out and leave it alone too. The Service Manual (Available in that section of this Forum, FREE of Charge!) will walk you through fine-tuning, but screwing with it won't resolve your pale plug.

This is because I suspect the reason you're seeing that lean-ish condition is that your restricted variator is making your engine run at redline all the time. Once removed, I believe you'll find your plug color closer to the optimal "Cardboard" hue. If not there's always an 85. In terms of engine wear, the sooner you remove that restrictor plate the better off you'll be.

PM me if you need a Keihin-branded 85, 88 and up.

[trains420]

if, your running it redline. you shouldn't be running it lean anyway. if you redline it. redlining will eat up your engine. lean, will blow it up if it's JEtted or not. your running lean, cause that extra hole is doulbe the air. i think. i put 85 and ran lean. and then i put 90. but i think i have other holes. other peopole run 85, 88 90, and they say 82 will burn it up.

[PimpinSpree]

if your running it wide open throttle and a new plug is too light, you probably need a bigger main jet. I don't think running at high rpms will change the color of the plug, but i could be wrong

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

The restrictor plate works great when the engine is limited to 3 HP by the exhaust washer and stifling intake. Take all that off and you now have the equivalent of 2nd gear. Racing bikes have 5-6 speeds calibrated to approach redline just when the wind drag begins to match the engine's output. I should have said that the engine revs beyond redline at WOT. Can't jet for that...