Time needed for proper break in.

Does your Spree/Elite already run great, and you're trying to make it quicker/faster? Need a monster motor swap? Discuss your ideas here.

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axo
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Time needed for proper break in.

Post by axo »

I have read this already in other parts of the forum but saw different opinions for different setups i guess..
I started up the scooter for the first time yesterday with the new cylinder and all you see in my signature. Taiwanese stuff...
Did 4 heat cycles already... then run the scooter very easy at the lowest rpm for a few blocks.
I got 2 gallons of gas premixed with cheap oil for the break in... is this enough or will i need more gas? when should i switch to 927 and go wot without worries?
Thanks
1989 Honda Dio SP
AF18E - 82cc Taiwan kit - 24mm Oko - KRS pulley kit - Kevlar belt - 8.44:1 gears - 1000RPM Center spring - 7 grams roller weights - R1 sectional exhaust - 130lb pilot :)
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Bear45-70
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Re: Time needed for proper break in.

Post by Bear45-70 »

Cheap oil is never a good idea, but especially on break in, when oil is extra important for new part protection.
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axo
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Re: Time needed for proper break in.

Post by axo »

the rings would take forever to seat if i were to use synthetic oil from the beginning. Do you mean buying a not so cheap non synthetic ?
Im using Penzoil 2t from the gas station... my bet is that the only difference with a more expensive non syn oil would be noticed in the long run... but i am using just a few gallons of gas here.
1989 Honda Dio SP
AF18E - 82cc Taiwan kit - 24mm Oko - KRS pulley kit - Kevlar belt - 8.44:1 gears - 1000RPM Center spring - 7 grams roller weights - R1 sectional exhaust - 130lb pilot :)
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Bear45-70
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Re: Time needed for proper break in.

Post by Bear45-70 »

axo wrote:the rings would take forever to seat if i were to use synthetic oil from the beginning. Do you mean buying a not so cheap non synthetic ?
Im using Penzoil 2t from the gas station... my bet is that the only difference with a more expensive non syn oil would be noticed in the long run... but i am using just a few gallons of gas here.
The synthetic thing on break in is a total myth.

You would be totally wrong about the difference in oils. But hey, don't let me sway you, use whatever you want it's your money but good oil is always cheaper than having to replace the BBK when this one pukes on you because you used cheap oil.
Bear 45/70
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'84 Aero 80 X 3

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'84 Aero 125
'84 Aero 125 X 2
'85 Aero 50
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capturedbyrobots
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Re: Time needed for proper break in.

Post by capturedbyrobots »

As for break-in, I'm easy on the motor for about 5-10 minutes,
then I ride it like I stole it (as long as jetting is right)
Obviously, if jetting hasn't been established, that needs to be done first.
Using good synthetic oil from the beginning will seat rings just like dino oil.
Haven't seized nor scored a motor yet. (knock on wood)
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Re: Time needed for proper break in.

Post by 808BMW »

Besides, Castor927 isn't even synthetic :P It talks about synthetic additives, but I wouldn't even consider it a "blend". I'd switch NOW.

As far as break in goes: Let it cool FULLY after each heat up (it will take a few hours). Keep going slow, and don't let yourself get anxious and crack that throttle. I wouldn't hit WOT until your on tank #4 or 5, and even then I wouldn't hold it more than a couple seconds.

New bores tend to be ridable (but only lightly) after a few hundred miles, but sometimes aren't fully broken in until 500-1000.
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