I agree that a big socket or box-end can make things easier, but many of them have a generous chamfer that makes engaging this thin nut a tricky proposition. If you don't keep it resolutely flat on the surface of the clutch housing, it's easy to have it slip and round off the corners.
If you're careful an adjustable crescent can produce the desired results without hunting down the 39mm. You can try this method, just to break it loose and to torque it down. Step-on-it and thread-the-nut-on finally works for me, after a few near-decapitations.
Wheelman-111
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pro or not pro.. this worked for me and does not bend anything: Bear will probably jump on me but i don't care.
Step with both feet on it. Use a good flat screw driver and a hammer to hit the big nut at any of the 6 tips. Mark it first so the tip of the screwdriver will engage a bit on the metal, like 1mm deep. Now hit it at an angle to make it turn counter clockwise ... the nut will slowly loosen. Now swap the spring, reverse the process by making a new mark on the opposite side of the one used before, then tighten it up.
The 2 small marks on the nut will not get the clutch out of balance or anything. The metal is still there.
1989 Honda Dio SP AF18E - 82cc Taiwan kit - 24mm Oko - KRS pulley kit - Kevlar belt - 8.44:1 gears - 1000RPM Center spring - 7 grams roller weights - R1 sectional exhaust - 130lb pilot
axo wrote:pro or not pro.. this worked for me and does not bend anything: Bear will probably jump on me but i don't care.
Step with both feet on it. Use a good flat screw driver and a hammer to hit the big nut at any of the 6 tips.
I don't know about this method.
How do you know when it it tight?
If you have a strap wrench and a vise there is another slightly less than pro way to do this also.
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It is tight when it wont move anymore, without getting to the point of breaking the nut.
I have opened it this way like 3 or 4 times and it never got loose or anything. Rode like this for years.
This is the way the guys at the tire repair shop get the locks out of your wheels when you loose the special lock nut.
1989 Honda Dio SP AF18E - 82cc Taiwan kit - 24mm Oko - KRS pulley kit - Kevlar belt - 8.44:1 gears - 1000RPM Center spring - 7 grams roller weights - R1 sectional exhaust - 130lb pilot
A few people I know use the hammer + screwdriver method. I'm a crescent wrench guy myself.
The right tool is always better, but with a little extra care, backyard mechanics can get by with less, but not always. Whatever you use, just make sure that thing is tight, you don't want it blowing apart later on
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