Won't Start, Plugs Dying?

[DKAudio]

Ok, I will get a new plug, get a much better oil, bleed the lines, etc. I'm pretty swamped at work so it may take a couple days to get around to it but I will post the results.

Thanks

[Bear45-70]

I have had multiple $14.96 champion plugs bad out of the box.

I've had more AC plug bad than any other brand.

[kylebo]

I'v had bad plugs out of the box also, all you can do is go get another and stick it in there. Gap can burn a plug up faster also. But not in 10 miles I would just replace the filter and plug like I said before. Than you can rule out good spark plug and correct amount of air. PLEASE make sure you have the oil pump primed before you start that thing up again. I would put one ounce of oil in a gallon of the first gas you run after you messed with the pump and lines.

[DKAudio]

I've been so busy this week I haven't had time to do anything yet. I did look at the air filter, the media itself looks to be in great condition but there did seem to be quite a bit of oil on it. I will order a new one.

Thanks

[Bear45-70]

I've been so busy this week I haven't had time to do anything yet. I did look at the air filter, the media itself looks to be in great condition but there did seem to be quite a bit of oil on it. I will order a new one.

Thanks

You can wash them out with soap and water, then reoil them.

[DKAudio]

I got some really good 2 cycle injection oil and am trying to bleed the lines. I tried using a squirt bottle to the outlet line to force oil through the pump and out the inlet line just like the manual says. Problem is I cannot move the oil through at all. I even tried hooking up the inlet line, submerging the outlet line in oil and sucking through the inlet tube, again, it did not budge. Is there a trick to this?

Thanks

[Bear45-70]

Yeah, put some oil in the gas and run the thing for a tank or two, then the new oil will be there.

[DKAudio]

Thanks for the quick reply, I wanna ride this thing today

I will just fill the oil tank and bleed the inlet line then and let the pump do its own thing.

32:1, correct?

[Bear45-70]

Thanks for the quick reply, I wanna ride this thing today

I will just fill the oil tank and bleed the inlet line then and let the pump do its own thing.

32:1, correct?

Actually 50:1 should be OK and will not smoke as bad.

[DKAudio]

So, re-cleaned air filter, got a new plug, drained oil lines put new oil in and mixed a full tank of gas...it took some cranking but it finally fired up again. I took it on about a 4 mile ride and there were hardly any bubbles left in the pumps outlet line already, I saw a bubble or two but it was moving one 'jump' every second or so.

I have another question now though...I had the scooter idling on the stand and the rear tire was spinning and it kept going faster and reving higher by itself. When I am on it and on the ground it never has done that.

[Bear45-70]

You need to adjust the carb per the Service Manual.

[noiseguy]

Probably idle set too high, or an air leak.

I've not had one do that before, but at idle on the stand the rear wheel should not be turning.

[DKAudio]

The scooter is still running but is very hard to start. Could this be due to mixing my gas and having the oil pump primed and running resulting in a rich burn? In fact, I have to have a charger on the battery because the battery dies from cranking it so much. I wonder if my auto bystarter is bad, I have read that can cause very hard starts when cold. Yesterday morning it was in the upper 30ÔÇÖs and it took many, many cranks to finally get it to fire and a few more cranks to actually start up. As far as adjusting the carb to change the idle, I looked at the carb procedures listed in section 4 of the manual and didnÔÇÖt really see anything about my issue except adjusting the idle stop screw until the engine is at 1800RPM, how do I check the RMP's though? I did check the air screw and put it 1 ┬╝ turns out. I know my fuel valve is good because the fuel stopped flowing when the tube was removed. I'm sure my battery needs replacing too, how many cranks should you get out of the battery? I can only crank for maybe 5 seconds or so (any good battery recommendations?) At any rate, this thing has left me stranded a few times now, just another reason I want to add the kickstarter for backup purposes.

[noiseguy]

Your rear wheel should not be turning at idle. Reduce your idle until it stops turning.

It's 30degrees out... are you leaving your battery in an unheated garage to freeze? If so, that can be a problem.

Should get more than 5 seconds of crank from the battery.

If you are not running your bike that often, the carb will evap out, and needs to refill while you crank. You can fill the carb manually by sucking on the vacuum hose at the bystarter.

Your idle mix screw is too lean, BTW. Read up:

http://hondaspree.net/wiki/index.php5?t ... ts_-_Spree

Screw in air screw until it lightly seats then turn it
'84-'85 1 7/8th turns out
'86 1 1/2 turns out
'87 1 3/8ths turns out

[DKAudio]

Thanks for the thorough reply; I will try everything you mentioned tonight.

The battery does sit outside when it gets cold but the low has only been 30 since I got the scooter. Even when it is 45-50 out it is hard to start and I only get about 5 seconds of cranking time. The scooter only sat 15 hours the last time I got a hard start so gas in the carb should not have evaparated in that short time.

The link you posted shows a picture of the carb, there is a black hose that loops around (vacuum?) On my Aero the black hose open to the air, it looks almost intentional and is pointing down. Should that hose be connected as shown in the picture? I wonder if that is part of the issue.