Slow from ~10-22 MPH

[DKAudio]

Well I did everything and the mid band is still horrible. I did not get a new belt because mine is still well within the service limits, it's still over 15mm wide, no cracks or anything, looks new. I also measured my clutch spring when it was apart and it was 3.8" (service limit is 3.5"). To take the clutch apart I used my vice and two c-clamps. It worked great and was really easy actually. To take the nut off I used an enormous pair of channel locks that I have (my sockets only go to 27mm). At any rate, I cleaned everything and greased up the front boss, took apart the rear drive face and clutch and found the grooves and two guides that you were talking about. I cleaned all that and re-greased as well. The grease that was in there looked really clean and everything was still moving well but figured I mine as well clean and re-grease since I was that far in. One thing that surprised me was I was able to pull in the center drive face and compress the spring before I took it apart and after it seemed stiffer and was much harder to pull in. That's why I thought it may be fixed and got excited until I took it for a test drive, didn't seem to change anything at all. Now what? According to my manual the spring and belt are almost in new shape...

[bakaracer]

you shouldn't be using any grease in the trans area. if your putting it on the rollers and boss, its going to get on everything in there. Then you will have more issues. no grease in the variator, on the rollers and on the boss. NONE!! Honda made a mistake by doing that and took then till 1999 to fix that problem.your clutch shoe springs are worn and the the center spring.measuring it wont show the metal fatigue under stress and heat. thats why I suggested you get 9.5g rollers to help with that and also better your performance down low.

[DKAudio]

I didn't put any on my new rollers...Wheelman suggested putting it on the boss though. You are saying to get new clutch springs and center spring now?

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Dunno 'bout the clutch springs, but Baka is probably right about the Center spring going soft in old age.

Try a Cialis paste painted on it. If that fails, you may need a stiffer spring. (Harder to install than lighter rollers, buy will restore faster downshifts better)

For the record, I did warn repeatedly about too much grease, but the vario boss needs a dab spread thin.

:quote: The "crank" you need to grease is just a very light dab of the stuff on the outer surface of the front pulley boss. Be careful not to put so much that it spatters onto the belt and pulley faces.
With both pulleys freely mobile, the spring and engine RPM may more rapidly find their balance. If the procedure doesn't improve your situation, then the center spring may have gone too soft:/quote:

[bakaracer]

did you also check to see if you have carbon build up in the exhaust port? if that cyclinder has never been decarboned, then that might also be the cause of low power at that speed. have you done a compression check?

[richdavison34]

Cialis paste! That may not hold it for more than 4 hours though.

[DKAudio]

I did only put a little grease on the boss as Wheelman said.

I have already burned out my muffler on a bed of coals, not much came out of it. The exhaust port on the cylinder head looked clear and normal size.

I have not done a compression check as I don't have a gauge. If they are not pricey I can pick one up but I'm running out of money on this thing, I bought it for $750!

Sounds like a new center spring is what to try next then or compression?

[Bear45-70]

Inexpensive as you can get.

http://www.harborfreight.com/flex-drive ... 92697.html

[DKAudio]

Compression is 110 PSI.

I guess I'm gonna take the carb apart and make sure everything is clean and the passages are free.

[DKAudio]

I cleaned the carb completely and still have the same problem! The acceleration the first few MPH is slow too, almost seems bogged down. I've pretty much done everything and checked everything, what else is left? New belt (even though mine is almost the width of a brand new one), new center spring, just get a big bore kit, sell it? I'm super frustrated if you can't tell.

If I need a new belt will the Gates 7240 work on the 85 Aero? My current belt is different from what most people are saying, it is a 23100-GN2-0030 Bando 634 x 15.5 x 30.

I just found this thread...
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=19593&hilit=belt
I put a SL-26 90/90/10 rear on and I think my problems started happening roughly the same time. The new tire isn't the culprit, is it?

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

The tire can raise the gearing by something like 7% over a 2.75 x 10.
The stock belt is 641mm long. A short belt could be the real culprit here if it starts off some distance away from the rear pulley rim.

[DKAudio]

Hmm, I just did a search on cheapcycleparts and the belt that came up in their driven face diagram is the belt I have on it currently...23100-GN2-003, note that I bought the scooter with this belt on it already.

Is the Gates 7240 "supposedly" the correct belt for the 85 Aero? If you think it is I wouldn't have a problem spending the $10 to give it a try and see if the belt was my issue all along.

[bakaracer]

that 23100-GN2-0030 is the stock 85 aero belt from honda. did you put a new center spring in? or did you try lighter rollers?

[DKAudio]

that 23100-GN2-0030 is the stock 85 aero belt from honda. did you put a new center spring in? or did you try lighter rollers?

Everything on the bike is stock so I wanted to stick with stock the roller weight, it didn't have this issue a month or so ago so something is not quite right. I have not put in a new center spring, I certainly can if that is what is recommended next. Should I get a stiffer one? I do want this thing to be more peppy but not take from my top speed which is about 33-34 on flat. A link to a recommended spring would be great.

[DKAudio]

Bump, still am unsure about what spring to get. The manual says nothing of 1000, 1500, 2000, etc.