Automotive A/C Axpertise

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

I seek the Wisdom of the Collective Auto-Axperts for an air condtioning issue with the Wheelman Family Truckster.

Setup: 2004 Subaru Forester 2.5X, 117,000 miles. A/C system never so much as touched. Never needed to. I don't plan to keep this vee-hickle much longer, but need the air to work for the stability of Ms. Wheelperson's Coiffure.

Early Symptoms: In very hot weather, the A/C would disengage briefly, then come on again. Incoming air was Cold as normal when it came back.

Middle Symptoms: I could only get it to re-engage by turning off the A/C button, downshifting, bringing the revs up to 3500 or so, then punching the A/C on again. Air still as Cold as ever.

Lately Symptoms: It'll keep running only if the blower fan is on Highest. Otherwise it cycles off and stays off until I repeat the process above. Air still hand-chilling Cold, so much so that I have to dial up 3 clicks of heat to drive that way.

I read in a Subaru Forum that after 6-7 years, enough seepage occurs to cause the refrigerant to become low even if there's no single "leak". Thinking the system won't turn on with a low charge, I went to Wally World and bought a $23 Recharge kit that features a pressure gauge and an 18-oz. can of R-134A.

The instructions say to charge the Low Side to 45-50 pounds at 86 degrees F. Engine and A/C have to be running of course. I kept filling and filling, but the pressure gauge continued to read between Low and "OK" - like on the line - at 30 pounds.

As I had almost completely emptied the can, the A/C clutch or belt began SCREAMING and would only tip On-Off for a half second - evidently demonstrating that it was OVER-Charged despite the gauge readings.

I let some Ozone-toxic R-134 escape (no Wheelman-Capture System handy...) and went to eat dinner. 100 more Aussies reported Melanomas to their Dermatologists. When I returned, the Air was working, no more screaming, and pressure showing more or less the same as it did before I hooked up the can.

I'd been thinking maybe the compressor was on its last balls anyway, and that I hastened its demise by over charging it and tweaking its bearings. But then how to explain its apparent return to normality? Maybe the hot seals leaked out faster and I happened to check pressure just as it came back to its previous very low charge state? Will it be empty tomorrow?

I've spotted reconditioned comprssors for this car for around $250 shipped online. I figger I'm gonna need one now if I didn't before. Anybody have a better lead?

All Sage and Learned advice welcome.

[Mystic]

If you are considering buying another compressor then it won't hurt to experiment There should be a sensor on the side opposite the pully where the coolant lines hook into the back of hte compressor motor. This sensor detects when the system is running low on coolant. Even if your system is fully charged or moderately charged etc if this sensor is bad or failing it would automatically shut off the compressor. You can bypass this sensor by unplugging the connector from the sensor and splicing the wires together If nothing else you can try this, if it doesnt improve then just plug it back up.

[SuprasNsprees]

wow that was a read


subarus are known for the o-rings to leak at the charge/discharge pipes that bolt to the top of the compressor. about $3 in parts, but you'll need to evac and recharge the system . anytime you have to add freon , it's best to suck the system down into a vacuum with a proper A/C machine


your symptoms sound typical of a normal 8 year old system that hasn't had any check-ups

don't sweat it. evac/charge at my work is like $60, iirc

[sliding_subaru]

Yea sounds like a faulty pressure switch

I removed the air con system from my Subaru due to being a fast car/track car now

I would say best to get it tested by some one who knows what they are looking for

[ChrisH821]

Greetings:


As I had almost completely emptied the can, the A/C clutch or belt began SCREAMING and would only tip On-Off for a half second - evidently demonstrating that it was OVER-Charged despite the gauge readings.

I let some Ozone-toxic R-134 escape (no Wheelman-Capture System handy...) and went to eat dinner. 100 more Aussies reported Melanomas to their Dermatologists. When I returned, the Air was working, no more screaming, and pressure showing more or less the same as it did before I hooked up the can.

Get yourself a proper set of manifold gauges(or go to someone who has a set) to see whats really going on, those charging things generally suck. Since your reading on the low side remained below "normal" even with the additional refrigerant it sounds like a blockage from the high to low side of your system. Do not run the AC with this condition as it could starve the compressor of oil. BTW r134-a is not ozone depleting, but it is a very strong greenhouse gas, much more so than CO2.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

I really appreciate all your input, Dawgs!

Harbor Freight has a gauge set made in some Foreign Country that is not Denmark. Any opinions on those, or am I a doof for not bringing it in to Someone With Good Tools and Actual Experience? Am I a doof for any other reason??

Heartfelt thanks to all who responded, anyway.

Best regards,
Wheelz

[sliding_subaru]

Greetings:

I really appreciate all your input, Dawgs!

Harbor Freight has a gauge set made in some Foreign Country that is not Denmark. Any opinions on those, or am I a doof for not bringing it in to Someone With Good Tools and Actual Experience? Am I a doof for any other reason??

Heartfelt thanks to all who responded, anyway.

Best regards,
Wheelz

Save your self some time and some money by taking it to a guy who knows whats going on

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Thanks again Slider!

Actually I found Forester.org has a List almost as maniacal as this one. One thread goes into excruciating detail about how the A/C clutch has a proclivity to fail right around 110K miles. With a passle of pullers and micrometers it is possible to adjust the shims and get it to work again. These guys are all over it just like I'm a ax-pert in shimming a ZX belt to perfection.

Yet I lack the time and Gumption* to take it on, so I went against my own Legendarily Cheap principles and ordered a recon-ed SUBARU OEM compressor con clutch for $258, shipped from the Dallas Metroplex. I'll take it in to be vacuumed out, drive the Hot car to Casa Wheelman, swap out the units and bring it back for correct fill with R134A. Wish me luck.

*Google Robert Pirsig Gumption

[sliding_subaru]

Just dont over fill it lol

You dont want it "slugging"

[eliteguy50]

don't sweat it. evac/charge at my work is like $60, iirc

Varies by location. You can't get it done for less than $200 here, that doesn't include any parts.

Read the fine print on your new compressor wheelman. Most warranties require more than just a the vac and charge of the system to be valid. I have never done a Suburu A/C pump, I have done several GM A/C pumps. The GM replacements typically require oil to be added even to the "factory oiled" pumps.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Yeah, the Subaru dealer went easy on me. Vacuumed the system, swapped compressors, recharged with $40 worth of oil and freon for 2.7 hours of labor. Tossed in oil and filter plus alignment check for $280. With discount.
Thanks for all the input. I have 3/4 of a bottle of Delco compressor oil left over.

[veedubh20]

A new ac compressor is recommend with a drier. Drier is like a filter. Condensor should be no oil stain, then is no leak.

If the fan blow on high speed only. then it a resistor