How to remove the magneto.....
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How to remove the magneto.....
I've got another problem in my Elite SB50. It's magneto will not come off. What should I do? I've tried a 2-arm puller, a bolt+hammer, everything!
-1989 Elite SB50 *Parting Out*
-1984 Yamaha QT 50
-1990 VW Fox
-1984 Yamaha QT 50
-1990 VW Fox
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Pygmaelion
- Goped
- Posts: 63
- Joined: Sat Dec 31, 2005 7:00 pm
- Location: Poughkeepsie NY
Okay... I did this before, and it cost me a crank... So: By the numbers.
1) If you start getting * off, walk away. I didn't, and it cost me
2) Find yourself a crank puller. I'm pretty sure [url http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FLYWHEEL ... 6857QQrdZ1]this [/url] is the one I have.
3) As best you can, wipe clean the inside threads on that flywheel. Try to get any grit, dust, and crud out of there.
4) If you already have the nut off the flywheel side of the crank, Put it back on until the end of the bolt is flush with the edge of the nut. If you don't put the nut on, you'll drive the puller into the soft crankshaft, and you'll shred/bend/generally frell it up.
5) Back the center screw out of the flywheel puller, and start threading the puller into the threads in the flywheel. As with any threads, be sure you're in straight before you really crank on it.
6) With the flywheel puller in, put a wrench on the base of the flywheel puller, and begin turning the center bolt on the puller clockwise (this will move the end of the bolt in closer to the crankshaft and nut). It will make contact...
7) From here, gently turn that center bolt on the puller. The flywheel will seem as if it's "stuck" until you apply quite a bit of pressure. The flywheel will then "give up", and pop loose. Back out the center bolt on the puller, and unthread it from the unseated flywheel.
Remove the puller from the center of the flywheel, and then remove the nut that holds it on the crankshaft.
9) Thread the puller back into the center of the flywheel, and use it as a handle to pull it out. Be on the look out for the "Woodruff Key" which looks like a half inch long sliver of metal. It's a 5 dollar part at the honda store, so hang onto it. If you dont' see it, take a peek inside the flywheel (it is loaded with magnets, so your key might have hitched a ride).
That's it. I did all manner of thingw wrong before doing this. I tried a full sized motorcycle flywheel puller (ruined the puller, and warped flywheel a little), then I got the correct tool, and thrashed the end of the crank because I applied pressure without putting the nut back on. It does take quite a lot of turning to pop the flywheel loose (especially if it hasn't been removed since 1989). Go slow, and don't be afraid to back it out and start over if something feels wrong.
This tool really did make sense (for me)to buy, instead of making a homebrew one, or making due with the wrong tools. [/url]
1) If you start getting * off, walk away. I didn't, and it cost me
2) Find yourself a crank puller. I'm pretty sure [url http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FLYWHEEL ... 6857QQrdZ1]this [/url] is the one I have.
3) As best you can, wipe clean the inside threads on that flywheel. Try to get any grit, dust, and crud out of there.
4) If you already have the nut off the flywheel side of the crank, Put it back on until the end of the bolt is flush with the edge of the nut. If you don't put the nut on, you'll drive the puller into the soft crankshaft, and you'll shred/bend/generally frell it up.
5) Back the center screw out of the flywheel puller, and start threading the puller into the threads in the flywheel. As with any threads, be sure you're in straight before you really crank on it.
6) With the flywheel puller in, put a wrench on the base of the flywheel puller, and begin turning the center bolt on the puller clockwise (this will move the end of the bolt in closer to the crankshaft and nut). It will make contact...
7) From here, gently turn that center bolt on the puller. The flywheel will seem as if it's "stuck" until you apply quite a bit of pressure. The flywheel will then "give up", and pop loose. Back out the center bolt on the puller, and unthread it from the unseated flywheel.
Remove the puller from the center of the flywheel, and then remove the nut that holds it on the crankshaft.9) Thread the puller back into the center of the flywheel, and use it as a handle to pull it out. Be on the look out for the "Woodruff Key" which looks like a half inch long sliver of metal. It's a 5 dollar part at the honda store, so hang onto it. If you dont' see it, take a peek inside the flywheel (it is loaded with magnets, so your key might have hitched a ride).
That's it. I did all manner of thingw wrong before doing this. I tried a full sized motorcycle flywheel puller (ruined the puller, and warped flywheel a little), then I got the correct tool, and thrashed the end of the crank because I applied pressure without putting the nut back on. It does take quite a lot of turning to pop the flywheel loose (especially if it hasn't been removed since 1989). Go slow, and don't be afraid to back it out and start over if something feels wrong.
This tool really did make sense (for me)to buy, instead of making a homebrew one, or making due with the wrong tools. [/url]
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DENMANSHAFFER
- Goped
- Posts: 75
- Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2006 9:25 pm
FLYWHEEL PULLER
THE CORRECT PULLER FOR THE NQ50 SPREE IS A 24MM X 1.0 RH INTERNAL THREAD. THIS MAY OR MAY NOT BE THE PULLER FOR AN ELITE SB50. THIS PULLER IS MADE BY DENNIS STUBBLEFIELD, MODEL MP43.
MOTION PRO MAKES A 27MM X 1.0 RH INTERNAL THREAD PULLER IF THAT IS THE CORRECT THREAD SIZE.
THE WHEEL CAN BE PULLED WITH A LOT OF WORK AND A CHEAP THREE ARM PULLER, LOTS OF WD40, TIGHTENING AND TAPPING WITH A BRASS HAMMER. TIGHTEN, TAP AND THEN LEAVE IT ALONE. REPEAT UNTIL IT POPS LOOSE. LONG FINGERS (NOT THE ARMS) ON THE PULLER HELPS A BUNCH.
MOTION PRO MAKES A 27MM X 1.0 RH INTERNAL THREAD PULLER IF THAT IS THE CORRECT THREAD SIZE.
THE WHEEL CAN BE PULLED WITH A LOT OF WORK AND A CHEAP THREE ARM PULLER, LOTS OF WD40, TIGHTENING AND TAPPING WITH A BRASS HAMMER. TIGHTEN, TAP AND THEN LEAVE IT ALONE. REPEAT UNTIL IT POPS LOOSE. LONG FINGERS (NOT THE ARMS) ON THE PULLER HELPS A BUNCH.