spree loses power when warm

vette76 · Post by **vette76** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 9:43 am

when i start the spree it has plenty of power it pushes me right up the hill.after the spree has been running a while it wont make it up the hill without me pushing it with me feet. it seems to vibrate a lot too under acceleration. any ideas? could it be the clutch? its just acceleration thats affected it still has a high top end speed.

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Fri Jan 07, 2005 11:27 am

Sounds like the first thing to check out is the belt and clutch assembly. Vibration could be caused by bearings ready to take a nap or clutch pads really warn down.

Post by **noiseguy** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 11:29 am

I wonder if this is pre-detonation; your note about vibration is what makes me wonder. Try running a colder plug and (gasp) higher octane gas. Check the manual for the plug number.

You could also be losing compression on warmup. How's your compression?

vette76 · Post by **vette76** » Sat Jan 08, 2005 3:32 pm

as soon as i find my compession tester ill let u know.lol

Tippmann98 · Post by **Tippmann98** » Sun Jan 09, 2005 1:41 am

The belt is not warm when you first start it up. But when it gets some running time on it, the belt will get warm and stretch out a little. This may be a partial reason. The vibration may be the clutch.

Jerry · Post by **Jerry** » Thu Jan 13, 2005 8:29 pm

I think noiseguy may have hit on i. Check compression cold and again warm. See how much it drops. Drivetrain is still the most logical for vibration though.

Tippmann98 · Post by **Tippmann98** » Sun Jan 16, 2005 7:33 pm

Haha, speaking of vibration.... You should ask shane. The beast i built is a vibrating machine. Loud as a mother too. The bearing inside the motor (crank bearing) is shot and the rod will move about i/4 in. with my hand. It still runs but is really loud and is porbably not good for it. Oh well, ill order that bearing sometime soon. But i did end up getting the Divited piston and the bigger head. I need to install the better rings but it runs pretty well considering they are messed up.

vette76 · Post by **vette76** » Mon Jan 17, 2005 10:31 am

i had a lawnmower like that once.

Tippmann98 · Post by **Tippmann98** » Thu Jan 20, 2005 6:28 pm

Yeah, its rather the pain...

vette76 · Post by **vette76** » Mon Feb 21, 2005 4:38 pm

Jerry wrote:Sounds like the first thing to check out is the belt and clutch a... Vibration could be caused by bearings ready to take a nap or clutch pads really warn down.

well i found out what it was the hard way. today it had no power. so i kept driving it. now it revs but doesnt move. a lot of smoke was coming from the kickstart case, so i took it off.(and burned my self a few times). the clutch was smoking. i sprayed water on it to see how hot it was and i might as well have heated it with a torch. so that sucks.

vette76 · Post by **vette76** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 8:09 pm

well. the spree is acting up again. it was running nice then it got slower and slower and finally it wouldnt take off from a stop without me pushing it. it has a new belt+clutch. clean carb and filter. the only thing thats left is the rings i guess. rings would only effect acceleration right? once this thing is moving its fast. it just wont move without me helping it. its not the drivetrain.

if i buy rings i dont need a piston do i?
how much are rings?

vette76 · Post by **vette76** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 1:55 pm

oh tha other thing i wanted to ask is, i dont need to hone the cylender do i?

Post by **noiseguy** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 1:57 pm

You always hone the cylinder with new rings, and you always dress the ports with 1000 grit paper after honing (slight rounding of port sections parrallel to the rings.) Unless you like doing things twice and wasting money.

Depends on the shape of the bore. If the bore is really worn out, you'll need a new piston and rings. If it's only slightly worn, a set of "oversize" rings on the stock piston will work, if the piston's in good shape. A machine shop should be able to check bore diameter for you with a bore gauge. The specs are listed in the factory service manual.

You need to check compression, when warm, to ensure this is the correct root cause. You're looking at b/t $25 - $100 for a upper end overhaul, if you do it yourself, depending on what you need. You don't want to do this unless it's really required.[/b]

vette76 · Post by **vette76** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 11:32 pm

what is the pourpose of honeing and is it really required?

i checked compression and it is around 100psi to 105psi cold which is too low right? because the manual said 114 psi min. but did that mean hot or cold?

and i think the piston will be in good shape because it does run well its just when its hot.
this loss of compression would explain why its so hard to start when its been running a while and still hot. if i shut it off when its hot it takes forever to start again even tho it sounds like it wants to start.

vette76 · Post by **vette76** » Mon Mar 28, 2005 10:46 am

ok i wired it up again to start it. when hot its around 93-96 psi. which would explain why my finger goes numb trying to restart it again. so i am guessing i need rings.also the plug looked like it was running lean(light tan) even tho i richened it. i think ill drain that mixture of nitro fuel.lol. that would probably be how i burned the rings im guessing. BLUPHIRE U BETTER NOT HAVE ANY COMMENTS! UR RITE, IM WRONG. SHUT UP!

do u know how much just the rings would be? and around how much it would be to hone?
your lucky u have access to a machine shop.