Carb Nipple

[SpreeGuy 123]

Besides the funny title, I posted this a few weeks back but the thread got locked so here is my previous question:

I might as well address another problem...The "Fuel In" line to the carb attaches to that little brass nipple. Well that little brass nipple has come out of the carb (I'm pretty sure it has fuzed to the fuel line and become one with it . What would you guys suggest to put it back in there, couple dabs of JB weld/resin?

I have jammed it in there but over time it comes out and spits gas all over me shoes!

I believe the bear made a comment on this saying:

"After reinstalling the nipple, have you tried staking it on at least 3 if not 4 sides with a center punch? Oh and skip the JB, the stuff is not a good fit for vibration crazy 2 strokes".

I'm not quite sure what you mean by "staking", could you elaborate on it?

I'm starting to think that it is sucking air into the carb at this point because I lose a lot of power after about a week of pushing the nipple back in. Which leads me to believe that the vibrations are shaking it loose after about a week.

[bonesv]

Maybe just try another carb. and be on your way. Plenty of pre owned units around here for cheap. Sometimes this is the best solution.
What kind of scooter is it going on? Stock or mod?

[Bear45-70]

Staking.......Using a center punch to make indentations around the outside of a hole to make it smaller and grip the object in the hole to stay in place.

[SpreeGuy 123]

Maybe just try another carb. and be on your way. Plenty of pre owned units around here for cheap. Sometimes this is the best solution.
What kind of scooter is it going on? Stock or mod?

Can you define cheap? My 86' spree is all stock.

Anyone else think my reasoning for sucking in air to be the cause of lost power a viable conclusion?

[Bear45-70]

Maybe just try another carb. and be on your way. Plenty of pre owned units around here for cheap. Sometimes this is the best solution.
What kind of scooter is it going on? Stock or mod?

Can you define cheap? My 86' spree is all stock.

Anyone else think my reasoning for sucking in air to be the cause of lost power a viable conclusion?

It can suck air. The fuel is at a higher pressure than the outside air so at worst you would have a fuel leak.

[motormike]

Another possible "fix" for this problem......the brass inlet tube would take on solder very well, so lay down a thin coat of solder on the end of the tube and press it into the inlet....... .....I've never done this, but theoretically, it should work......

[Bear45-70]

Another possible "fix" for this problem......the brass inlet tube would take on solder very well, so lay down a thin coat of solder on the end of the tube and press it into the inlet....... .....I've never done this, but theoretically, it should work......

I agree. Never done it but it should work. Or you could just force the next size up drill bit shank in to the nipple and expand it a bit, then press it in the the hole.

[motormike]

Excellent idea ! ! ! !

[bonesv]

Cheap - as in less expensive than a brand new carburetor from Honda dealer.
I guess I should have said that instead. Probably somewhere between $30 - $50. Depends on condition.
I like the solutions given so far. No cost to try.

[SpreeGuy 123]

I like the idea of solder and it sounds simple.

I'm not sure which end you are considering up so it is a little confusing. Are you talking about sticking the brass nipple in and then laying down some solder where the brass meets the carb (more or less welding it in place)? Or coating the brass nipple essentially making it a larger diameter and then jamming it in there. The latter sounds to be less effective as I don't think I will be able to make it a uniform coating...

[SpreeGuy 123]

Cheap - as in less expensive than a brand new carburetor from Honda dealer.
I guess I should have said that instead. Probably somewhere between $30 - $50. Depends on condition.
I like the solutions given so far. No cost to try.

So far I have seen carbs for >$100, and for that price I am more inclined to make a trap door on my plastic cover so I can push the fuel line in every time it wiggles out of place.


Did I mention that taking the plastics of these little scoots is worse then having razor burn on your butt cheeks all day, not fun

[motormike]

Uniform coating of solder not critical, just dont leave any "blobs".....when you press the nipple into the inlet, it should peel any excess solder away for a perfect fit...the solder is softer than the brass and the carb body....DONT be wiggling the tube once you've inserted it into the inlet because it will deform the solder fit. DO NOT try to solder the tube to the body....I'm pretty sure the solder will not hold to the carb body very well......

[breaze]

I had the same problem with an old Express carb. Mine was a fairly tight fit though - it had not been in and out several times. I put good ol red thread locker on it and ran that way for a couple of years.

[Bear45-70]

I like the idea of solder and it sounds simple.

I'm not sure which end you are considering up so it is a little confusing. Are you talking about sticking the brass nipple in and then laying down some solder where the brass meets the carb (more or less welding it in place)? Or coating the brass nipple essentially making it a larger diameter and then jamming it in there. The latter sounds to be less effective as I don't think I will be able to make it a uniform coating...

Heat the carb end of the nipple (the one without the flare to retain the hose) and use rosin to clean it, the apply a thin coat of solder to the nipple. Now press the soldered end of the nipple into the carb.

[SpreeGuy 123]

If for some odd reason it just wont fit at all can ALL of the solder be removed fairly easily? aka return it to its factory condition?

BREAZE: Did you notice a lack of power when the nipple came lose?