Help? Took 27 years to break these wires (resistor)

[twistedtuner]

Hey Guys I did A search and founda few topics regarding this issue, but not sure there is a solution yet?
While working on my 85' Gyro TG50m I noticed that the resistor has a wire pulled out of it.
I kinda understand the basic of a resistor but not sure WHY its there between Ground and the E choke/bystarter?
So the stock resistor is marked 5Watt 3.5 Ohm. I have looked around seems these are not available from honda anymore?
I have replaced the carb with the ebay carb that comes with the choke. Since I been using this carb I have noticed it really smokes and think it still running rich. (Don't know how ran before though)
Can someone tell me if I could just get a "regular" 5w 3.5 ohm resistor from a electronic supply store? Obviously I need to solder and seal the resistor but is that really all I need?
I just don't get why I couldn't use a bystarter from a 50cc CPI or Yamaha scooter and install it on here? The new scoots don't Use a resistor (I think). So if there was a resistor on one that didn't need it, Wouldn't it not opperate proper due to the lack of current/power.

So Do I need to test the chokes resistance to see if I EVEN need one?
Just across the 2 wires when cold? & or hot? Will running the bike without the resistor hurt the engine?
Sorry so many Question but want to solve this one once and for all..
If this can't be solved easily I will just put a fricking pull choke on it.

[twistedtuner]

Also are these chokes ac/dc sensitive? Could I run it off a "switched" battery source? Like after the regulator/rectifire?

[twistedtuner]

Ok so I pulled the choke off the gyro and one from the cpi, Dammit they have different sized base.....
Ok scrap that Idea, but may also kill the pull choke idea.
So on to fixing the problem at hand.
I checked the resistance between the to wire from the choke and I get NOTHING! (on any scale on my meter) Is this choke done then? Can I test this choke with a battery? see if it moves?

I tried to test the resistor, one wire is still in the hole. and then used the test lead in the hole where the other wire was. I set my meter to 200 and it shows 4.4 ohms?
I am wondering if I can open the resistor case from the back and re attatch the wire? Then seal it back up with a epoxy or something?

I am really P.O.ed that this carb hasn't lasted 300 KM so far, and is the 2nd one I have bought.

[mousewheels]

I checked the resistance between the to wire from the choke and I get NOTHING! (on any scale on my meter) Is this choke done then? Can I test this choke with a battery? see if it moves?

Open is probably bad. Testing with a battery is ok, watch for an extension of the needle & brass collar as the bystarter warms up. It will take a few minutes.

Also are these chokes ac/dc sensitive? Could I run it off a "switched" battery source? Like after the regulator/rectifire?

AC/DC is ok, factory manual uses a DC test. What benfit are you seeking with a DC connection?

Can someone tell me if I could just get a "regular" 5w 3.5 ohm resistor from a electronic supply store? Obviously I need to solder and seal the resistor but is that really all I need?
I just don't get why I couldn't use a bystarter from a 50cc CPI or Yamaha scooter and install it on here? The new scoots don't Use a resistor (I think). So if there was a resistor on one that didn't need it, Wouldn't it not opperate proper due to the lack of current/power.

Sure, you can use an aftermarket resistor. I don't know about use of bystarters from other model scooters. You can use a Spree bystarter with minor wiring mods (lengthen wires/replace connector if needed)

Some of the clones have a higher resistance bystarter, and may be fine without a resistor.

[twistedtuner]

Thanks mousewheels, Kinda what I thought. But want to be safe this isn't the bike you want to screw up on.

The purpose of going D/c was to avoid using a resistor?
What harm will come If I use the stock bystarter witout the resistor? Just hook the choke to ground. Will it just kill the choke? or harm the altenator/stator?

I guess if I can just get a resistor from electronis supply then all this won't matter.
Basiclly something like this?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5K-or-3500-Oh ... 3c9a3a81cb
It look like they use these on alot of honda bikes. Any idea of Honda part # for one because the parts guys can't even find it listed...
They are just lazy

[Bear45-70]

The bystarter is NLA (No Longer Available) from Honda.

[twistedtuner]

for the resistor... Part number sorry. Is there a cheaper replacement?

But for a bystarter, Aftermarket wise? Basicly I seen some as high as 100 but then can get that cheap carb WITH choke for 30-50. But seem to be junk...

[Bear45-70]

RESISTOR 35400-GM8-000 Part is discontinued

[mousewheels]

The purpose of going D/c was to avoid using a resistor?
What harm will come If I use the stock bystarter witout the resistor? Just hook the choke to ground. Will it just kill the choke? or harm the altenator/stator?

Heating value of 12v DC vs 12v RMS AC is the same, so it does not change resistor/no-resistor decision. For sure no resistor on a bystarter designed for a resistor will cause it to open earlier. However, your thread is saying you are using an aftermarket bystarter and some use no external resistor. This makes a resistor/no resistor call more difficult.

I guess if I can just get a resistor from electronis supply then all this won't matter.
Basiclly something like this?

Link is to a 3500 ohm resistor - too high to get the bystarter to heat up and expand.

You can get a 10w (will assist heat dissapation) 3.5 ohm resistor from an electronic supplier like mouser for #1.06 + shipping http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Component ... 0w&FS=True The OEM is metal cased, and mounted to the metal plate for heat dissapation. Clamp/JB weld etc down to a metal base and bolt to original plate to dissapte heat.

It look like they use these on alot of honda bikes. Any idea of Honda part # for one because the parts guys can't even find it listed

Honda used different resistance values on various scooter models. My opinion is Honda used the external resistance to tune how fast the bystarter heated up and opened, to optimize warm up performance.

[twistedtuner]

The purpose of going D/c was to avoid using a resistor?
What harm will come If I use the stock bystarter witout the resistor? Just hook the choke to ground. Will it just kill the choke? or harm the altenator/stator?

Heating value of 12v DC vs 12v RMS AC is the same, so it does not change resistor/no-resistor decision. For sure no resistor on a bystarter designed for a resistor will cause it to open earlier. However, your thread is saying you are using an aftermarket bystarter and some use no external resistor. This makes a resistor/no resistor call more difficult.

I am using the one that came with the ebay carb for about $35-40. Dunno what the resistance was> Just finding out about this because I noticed the wire finally let go. Wasn't aware that it may be different than the stock.

I guess if I can just get a resistor from electronis supply then all this won't matter.
Basiclly something like this?

Link is to a 3500 ohm resistor - too high to get the bystarter to heat up and expand.

The one I have on bike is stamped 5W 3.5 ohm and does mount on the airbox.

You can get a 10w (will assist heat dissapation) 3.5 ohm resistor from an electronic supplier like mouser for #1.06 + shipping http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Component ... 0w&FS=True The OEM is metal cased, and mounted to the metal plate for heat dissapation. Clamp/JB weld etc down to a metal base and bolt to original plate to dissapte heat.

It look like they use these on alot of honda bikes. Any idea of Honda part # for one because the parts guys can't even find it listed

Honda used different resistance values on various scooter models. My opinion is Honda used the external resistance to tune how fast the bystarter heated up and opened, to optimize warm up performance.

This makes sense, but then what does it really matter, what resistance as long as its close? For most part its 20 C here and choke really only needed to prime. then idle to warm up.

[mousewheels]

This makes sense, but then what does it really matter, what resistance as long as its close? For most part its 20 C here and choke really only needed to prime. then idle to warm up.

It points to it mattered to Honda. That said, try other values - if you are happy all's good. It may/may not transfer to good advice for all.

[Bear45-70]

The purpose of going D/c was to avoid using a resistor?
What harm will come If I use the stock bystarter witout the resistor? Just hook the choke to ground. Will it just kill the choke? or harm the altenator/stator?

Heating value of 12v DC vs 12v RMS AC is the same, so it does not change resistor/no-resistor decision. For sure no resistor on a bystarter designed for a resistor will cause it to open earlier. However, your thread is saying you are using an aftermarket bystarter and some use no external resistor. This makes a resistor/no resistor call more difficult.

I am using the one that came with the ebay carb for about $35-40. Dunno what the resistance was> Just finding out about this because I noticed the wire finally let go. Wasn't aware that it may be different than the stock.

I guess if I can just get a resistor from electronis supply then all this won't matter.
Basiclly something like this?

Link is to a 3500 ohm resistor - too high to get the bystarter to heat up and expand.

The one I have on bike is stamped 5W 3.5 ohm and does mount on the airbox.

You can get a 10w (will assist heat dissapation) 3.5 ohm resistor from an electronic supplier like mouser for #1.06 + shipping http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Component ... 0w&FS=True The OEM is metal cased, and mounted to the metal plate for heat dissapation. Clamp/JB weld etc down to a metal base and bolt to original plate to dissapte heat.

It look like they use these on alot of honda bikes. Any idea of Honda part # for one because the parts guys can't even find it listed

Honda used different resistance values on various scooter models. My opinion is Honda used the external resistance to tune how fast the bystarter heated up and opened, to optimize warm up performance.

This makes sense, but then what does it really matter, what resistance as long as its close? For most part its 20 C here and choke really only needed to prime. then idle to warm up.

If it takes twice as long as Honda intended, your engine will run like crap for the extra time it takes (too rich); if it closes to fast the engine will stall because it be too lean.

[twistedtuner]

So the ebay carb/bystarter I have, didn't work when I hooked it up to a battery ( as expected, no resistance)
However, I removed the rubber seal and tested the terinals themselves. Got 9.8 ohm, The wires wern't even stripped, just the crimp poking through the insulation (If you were lucky)
I recrimped and added a bit of solder and heatshrink to the teminals. Success
I hooked it up to a battery and she grew..
So Now back to the resistor, basicly what we all agree on is that a total of 9.8 ohm wil heat the choke up faster than the 15ish ohms present when a resistor is there. Right?
So if Its ok to hook directly to battery WITHOUT a resistor, I should be ok to not use one on the stock A/C circut? With the only possible problem being that the choke MAY close to soon, or not soon enough?
I also think I may be able to "tap" into the resistor's hole. using a nail that just fits and cut to the right length. Then I can attatch the wire to it and make a connection. If I need to I could epoxy the nail to the case so It won't go anywere. (Kinda getto but ok till I get the replacement)
Going to work on it tonight. Think this might work.

[twistedtuner]

So just took it for 3 min drive. without the resistor. The choke did heat up and the idle smoothed out pretty nice.
Will need to tune it abit now. but seems to be ok.
I don't think I will need to worry about the choke turning off to soon in the summer. Maybe in the colder months in the fall.

Just wondering if one could use a potentiometer lo tune how soon the choke will turn off. Turn up the resistance for cold days, and down for the Hot ones?
Something to ponder?

[Bear45-70]

So just took it for 3 min drive. without the resistor. The choke did heat up and the idle smoothed out pretty nice.
Will need to tune it abit now. but seems to be ok.
I don't think I will need to worry about the choke turning off to soon in the summer. Maybe in the colder months in the fall.

Just wondering if one could use a potentiometer lo tune how soon the choke will turn off. Turn up the resistance for cold days, and down for the Hot ones?
Something to ponder?

Sure, but you need to make sure the wattage is high enough.