stuck screws.

[mmeadows]

i have always felt that the hardest part of any mechanical project is
1.) accessing said bolt or nut and 2.) turning it.

and once again i find myself feeling frustrated by this.

i can't for the life of me get these screws off the engine case. these are only on my 1980 na50 and not on my 1983 nc50. i guess honda realized they made the biggest effen mistake.

philips head screws are holding the case in, which, from a torque standpoint, is the stupidest design. ( can you tell i'm frustrated?)

things i have tried

1.) drilling a hole in the center of the screw then hammering a screw driver bit into the new hole
- it cost me 3 drill bits and 1 phillips bit but it got 1 screw out. i don't have enough drill bits and phillips bits to do all 12+ screws this way.

2.) useing a cutting wheel to cut a proper large flat head slot.
- broke all 5 of my HF cutting wheels but i was able to get two out this way when i laid the motor on its side, push down with all my body weight, and turn. this is not feasible for all screws because not all can be touched by a cutting wheel, oh and i'm now out of cutting wheels lol


3.) speciality craftsman tool designed to removed stripped screws.
- worst craftsman tool i have ever used, made my situation much worse, no matter the pressure and the speed.

[mmeadows]

[martynkim]

You don't have an impact screwdriver? (not an air tool)

[mmeadows]

patthesound guy said the same thing, i thought it maybe was an air tool, but honestly i've never heard of one. looks like HF sells them so i guess i should buy one and see what its all about. its 8:37 lets see if i can get there before they close at 9:00

[otto-man]

Ah yes, the crappy phillips screws they used on engine cases!! I use a blunt shaft (broken kick start shaft cut off to 4 to 5 inches). Before you bugger up the head, try placing the "shaft" against the screw and give it a sharp rap with a hammer. Don't hit it hard enough to mess up the phillips slot, but enough to "wake up" the threads. Sometimes you have to do it a couple of times, but it will work about 90% of the time. Good Luck!!

[mmeadows]

so i tried the HF impact screw driver ..... it didnt work and i will take it back tomorrw. the thing comes with no instructions put i mean it looks pretty simple. you just hit it and it turns. kept hitting, and hitting, and hitting, after a few hits the tool itself felt loose and if it had been used a bunch of times.

i then took the 1/4 8mm impact socket and the abnormally big 8mm philips bit and hooked it up to the impact gun ( ive taken off many car axle nuts with this thing)

i put my impact to its lowest setting and tried the screws that i had sprayed with carb cleaner and air tool oil. i was able to get 3 loose until the philips bit warped. although honda ( insert negative comment here) for using screws, they definitely did not use cheap easy to break ones.

some of these screws didnt budge with the impact on its lowest setting. i think thats 65 ft lbs. i would have bet money the screws would just snap at those levels.

i cant wait to get these screws out and just throw them away, maybe ill send then back to honda lol. i wish these screws had feelings so i could try and hurt them, it took me 20 minutes to sandblast an entire engine today, and 5 hours to unscrew 5 phillips heads.

i think that makes only 8 more to go!!!

i'm getting really mad with this really fast so tomorrow im going to put the motor on the drill press and try and make the case as straight as possible. lets see how these stand up against the rapist that is a drill press .

is there any danger in punching through the case? some screws go all the way through some just go into the engine. there seems to be zero rhyme or reason as to why some have a back and some dont. why not make them all match?

[mmeadows]

found a youtube video that says i need a cobalt metal drill bit and then these spiral flute screw extractors guess ill do that tomorrow and finally see how bad the drivetrain is.


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/access ... =99277_0_0_

[patthesoundguy]

Man those screws just don't want to come out do they? Have you tried a little heat from a torch? If you heat the heads of the screw at just the rightangle you can heat the screw and not the case so much, then when the screw is decently hot, squirt some pb blaster in around the back of the screw head, the heat will help draw it in. Wipe it all off and do it again, I bet those screws will come loose after a few tries. Got a welder? If they still don't want to come out if you have a mig welder you can weld small nuts to the heads of the stuck screws and use a socket to get some torque on them

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2

[breaze]

I don't have much to add except that I shared your frustration when I had my NA50 II (looked just like yours but almost mint). I decided I would replace the screws with bolts so I didn't mind buggering them up. I was able to use a flathead screwdriver and a hammer - get a small dent started in the side of the head and then angle the screwdriver over to knock the head counter-clockwise. If you can get at it, many times you can lock vice-grips on the head and get it turned.

I am certainly not recommending these approaches, but if you don't mind damaging the screws, it has worked for me many, many times.

[patthesoundguy]

That is a very good way to get those out, really good trick:-D thumbs up i think it wold look really cool with pan head allen head bolt on the case

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[extraslimcase]

It doesn't get out stripped screws, but I find that taking a few dozen steps away from my work sight and loudly using various combinations of colorful swear words helps to clear the air, so to speak.

[devenex]

Yamaha used screws to hold the belt cover on the vino I had, much to my displeasure. Luckily I was able to remove all the screws either with a screwdriver or by dremeling them to work w/ a flat head driver, after which I promptly went to the hardware store and bought replacement bolts.

[patthesoundguy]

Even if you snap a head off of those screws, I bet the threaded end will come out easy. On my express I found that it wasn't really the threads that made life difficult it was the way the head of the screw locked in place. Lucky for me ive been able to get most screws out on my express with my small dewalt impact. The trick is also to use their "Impact Ready" screw driver bits. They absolutely don't get shredded on anything. I boaght a set of the 2" long bits I think the length is in the thee common sizes of Philips and Robertson. And went and got a good couple glad head long bits too. Some Philips screws also take a Robertson bit as well which is way stronger for removal than the Philips. Great quality bits are the key if you only have one shot getting a bad screw out. I also have a set of those craftsman screw removers, I found they are meant for stuff that's smaller and shorter and under less tension. They have saved my rear many times when repairing sound equipment and musical instruments.

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[Dust-it]

Japanese have their own standard for Phillips head screws .They have a little different angle in the slot .

If you start with a hand held impact driver and the correct Japanese standard bit they will come out (well most times ).

Ever notice what your screwdriver does to very tight carb bowl screws?

I know that doesn't help on the ones you already mangled . If I cut a slot with the dremel I still use the hand held impact

driver . Found out about impact drivers in the 60's trying to remove screws from Japanese dirt bikes , but didn't know about
the difference in Phillips heads till much much later !

Good Luck

[Pete M]

Dust-it speaks the truth. I have a special phillips head for those difficult pains in the butt. I also like a nice propane torch when you have the space. A little heat and when it cools it comes right out. PB Blaster is the ticket for rusty screw/bolt removal.