85 Spree won't start cold

[BigPapa]

Since I got this machine, it's seen a new top end, CDI, auto bystarter, plug, filter, gas valve, etc. I even got the d*** thing a brand new seat!! I can only get it started with fuel down the spark plug hole. Once it runs, it's fine. Start immediately after being turned off or being cold for 30 minutes. But if it's off for more than an hour or two, nothing. Turns over but not enough to start. I just finished soaking the carb for 4 days. This machine is making me postal. Any help would be mucho appreciated. Thanks in advance.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Bystarter circuit sounds plugged. The bystarter Default is "Cold Start" as it retracts when it cools. Usually it's not the electric unit and plunger but the channels in the carb that it controls.

[BigPapa]

Thanks for the advice - I'll try it tomorrow.

[BigPapa]

I did go cheap aftermarket bystarter - probably Japanese. Could this be the problem? Should I have spent the extra money for OEM?

[vintagegarage]

Also be sure that the air bleed circuit is not plugged up.. easy to check.. while the engine is idleing, turn the air bleed screw in a full turn, and then back to where it was, then out a full turn. If the idle speed doesn't change while you do this, then I think a blocked air bleed hole may be the cause of your cold start problem.

[patthesoundguy]

Pull the carb and clean the small orifice in the float bowl that feeds the bystarter and idle circuit. That is usually the issue if setting the idle mixture and idle speed don't cure it. The cheap bystarter usually works. Soaking the carb probably won't clear that orifice it has to be done by hand. There is also a vacuum test for the bystarter in the manual that will tell you if the bystarter is in the proper position when cold allowing the air the flow in turn drawing in fuel from the float bowl to enrich on startup.

[motormike]

All of the steps mentioned above are valid.
I suspect lingering debris in the enrichment circuit as well.
Not only the "air bleed" circuit (where the idle-mixture screw goes in)
but also the passage that leads from the flange of the carb TO that circuit and opening in the carb throat.
4 days soaking is definitely extreme, and should be followed with compressed air, LOTS of AIR, and if needed,
some careful probing with tools to break loose any stubborn, crusty debris.
Same careful probing and AIR for the orifice in the float bowl that supplies fuel to the bystarter "well", as mentioned by patthesoundguy.
Please report your success when you have achieved it...

[Johnniespeed]

I too agree with everyones cleaning advise, if you wear safety glasses, you can use a can of aerosol carb spray with the straw to blow through each tiny passage, the stream of fluid is watched to verify if the passage is clear or if it is restricted.
The carb needs to be perfectly clean, that is not a figure of speach, it means every passage is clean, even the ones that are hard to see.
The Spree is a tiny little scooter that can run perfect and is fun to ride, BUT the carb and intake system need to be unbelievably perfect.

[BigPapa]

Thanks for all of the advice. I know the small hole in the carb you are referring to and it is open and clean. The battery is new also. I can't even get the machine to start using ether (a no-no). It turns over great but won't start - very frustrating!!!!

[patthesoundguy]

If I won't start on regular fuel its not gonna. Id start looking to other things. Make sure the the spark plug gap is 0.025" it could be a bad plug, had that get me more than one. The plug would fire out of the motor but not when installed. Even though the battery is new I'd charge it up and maybe jump the thing with a battery pack or another vehicle. If the starter doesn't spin at the proper speed the motor will not start, period. Been there done that. Beat my self to death trying to get my spree to start, all I had to do was charge the battery or jump it. It would turn over just fine but no fire. A compression test may also be a good plan.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

OK, so if the carb is clean, it will accurately process the fuel. You may consider "Priming" it with vacuum on the petcock vac line. Then see that there's fuel in the bowl. Air filter assembly intact?

Spark plug swap should be automatic, plus it's easy. Occasionally they're bad in the box. Compression is the next thing to check. The pipe isn't clogged? Finally pull the fan cover and see if the magnet flywheel has spun.