spree vacuum valve keeps getting stuck open and closed

[peterblackwell24]

I am a first time spree owner at least might as well be its been 20 years. picked up a very clean spree cleaned everything. My spree is starting right up then idling super high then low then high. If i give throttle it dies. I noticed my fuel vaccuum valve is getting stuck open and closed at different times. if my valve is stuck open could this be causing it to get to much gas. if I adjust the mix screw or the idle speed no change. what can I do? Also I didnt notice a feul filter going into the petcock from gas tank

[patthesoundguy]

How do you know the petcock isn't working properly? Your issues sound like classic spree getting too muxh air. There wasn't an external fuel filter on the fuel line, there is a screen in the tank. And they do get gummed up too, sometimes the scoots won't run on less than half a tank because of that problem. I would be looking more for a leaking vacum line and intake leaks like a missing airbox cover or hose or even a rotten or missing airfilter for the cause of your issues. Very often a lot of the issues are caused by the idle air circuit being clogged up in the carb. The small orifice that gets clogged is in the float bowl. Also down load the manual and do the bystarter vacum test, you can do it with an ear syringe from the drug store if you can't get a hold of a proper vacum tester.

[peterblackwell24]

I thought it was the petcock because i couldnt even suck gas through vacuum line. I had the carbuerator put in an ultra sonic cleaner, I have a new airbox and filter?

[peterblackwell24]

how should I clean the screan in the tank doesnt exist and the spree hadnt been ran in 20 years?

[peterblackwell24]

I will test the bystarter thankyou Im stooped

[patthesoundguy]

Remove the petcock and the screen is attached to it. If the scoot Sat with fuel in it for 20 years that screen could be gummed up and the petcock with it. I'd pull it and soak it in a can of seafoam or maybe even some fresh fuel and then try some good degreaser if that won't work. Carb cleaner may melt the plastic screen if left for any period of time. Won't hurt to spray the screen with carb cleaner to clean it but blow it dry with compressed air after. Don't trust the ultrasonic cleaner tonget that orifice in the float bowl clean. You need to be able to see light through it. That thing will not idle without that orifice being clear. Also make sure the air box has a lid and that the lid has the foam rubber gasket in it and not leaking. And that the air box lid has its holdeown screw. To test the petcock pull the vacum line from the intake and pull the fuel line off of the carb and fuel should flow out of the fuel line when you suck on the vacum line. No fuel will flow from the the vacum line itself unless the petcck is totally trashed.

[peterblackwell24]

Thank you for the instruction. I will try that out tomorrow and soak the petcock tonight. let you know how it goes.

[peterblackwell24]

I see that little hole in the float bowl. how do I get that cleaned. I actually just used my wifes old breast pump to make sure petcock vacuum was popping up and down

[patthesoundguy]

That little hole can take some poking and prodding. Spray the hole with carb cleaner and let it soak in for a few min. Then start poking with something like a britsle fromna wire brush. Spray and repeat. A small numbered drill set is a good way to clear it. Or a set of torch tip cleaners do a great job and are cheap. They are like small numbered drills.

[peterblackwell24]

Perfect! soaking now

[patthesoundguy]

http://m.ebay.com/itm/311413289559
I couldn't find these on the harbour freight site

[frank50e]

All excellent advise sounds like it's likely an air leak.If it has set for twenty yrs.I would replace crank seals as a matter of course.They dry out and crack.For the sake of long term reliability I always replace them in old 2t's.Also I use an unlit propane torch around manifold,carb and airbox connections if it revs up as you pass the gas(no pun intended) around these areas you have found an air leak.You can do the same with a soapy water solution but I prefer the former.But the earlier advice I would do first.I pull the fuel sending unit if so equipped and fill tank after removing petcock and plugging the opening with a 1:1 mix of water and Muriatic acid.Dump that and flush tank with water blow dry with compressed air rinse a drying agent like acetone or rubbing alcohol blow dry again an fill with a few ozs of 2t oil in gas to prevent flash rusting from the acid this saves trouble down the road as well.Sounds like a lotta work but it's just my ritual on bikes that have set for some time.Also if you are going the eBay route to clear orifices they sell a multi thickness tool for this been meaning to buy one I got the small bits and have used them but that would get you a tongue lashing from an instructor at m/c mechanics school as the brass is a softer metal and you can damage the hole or as I have done break a bit in the hole rendering the carb useless.

[MrJumps]

Check the oil pump is seated against the body firm and that the oring is there and the pump isnt pouring oil into your case via a bad pump. Make sure that an pices of plastic is between the carb and manifold.

[Ultraliner]

Agreed, sounds very much like an air leak, im guessing somewhere after the carb. I had a very similar issue on mine recently where the rubber bung I was using to block off the unused oil supply orifice on the intake block came off(I run premix). Scooter would mostly refuse to start but when it did the idle would run all over the place on its own, would sometimes rev properly and sometimes not. As soon as I replaced the bung it came right instantly.

Are you using the oil pump or running premix? Jumps is onto it, if the oil pump isnt seated and sealed correctly it will act the same. Check the oil pump for fit and oil supply lines ect. Could even drain the oil and disconnect the oil pump line onto the intake block, blank off the oil intake orifice and try running on premix. Also remove the oil pump and pull out the pump driveshaft, turn the special mounting nut around and refit the pump, minus the shaft to the block fully flush against the block... Acts kinda like an oil pump delete plug if done properly.

I've been running mine like this for months now on premix, never misses a beat