Ah, gotcha. And is there an easy way to check those rollers?hondaman wrote:You said in one of your posts that when the bike is on its stand it revs all the way up with no bogging. I have a feeling that it has something to do with those weights or the clutch spring. As soon as weight is applied to the bike you seem to have the problem.
still cuts/bogs out
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I have not done it on a spree but I have done it on another make of scooter. I do believe they are all based on the same setup. You need an air or electric impact wrench to get the front pulley sprocket off which is the piece that has the teeth on it that mesh into the starter pinion gear. Once that is off you slip your belt off.Then you will see another piece I call the inside pulley.That pulley slides off and on the back of it a plate comes off. That will expose the roller weights.They should be nice and round and not show signs of wear. They might still be round but still be worn down. This job can sound difficult to those who never did it before. If you replace the weights you just take the old ones out and replace with new ones the same way you took them out. Assembly of everything else is just in reverse order. Just make sure you use an impact wrench to get that final nut back on. You want it good and tight .
wait wait wait. do sprees have rollers? i didn't think they did, just a pulley in front. thats why there take off is a bit slow
well if you do try all this look for grease inside on the roller, honda use to put grease on there to slow them down a little to get them listed mopeds not motorcycles
well if you do try all this look for grease inside on the roller, honda use to put grease on there to slow them down a little to get them listed mopeds not motorcycles
"Its not what you ride, its that you ride"
1996--------Honda Elite S-
1991--------Tomos Targa-
And a Bunch of other bikes.
1996--------Honda Elite S-
1991--------Tomos Targa-
And a Bunch of other bikes.
Like I said I never did it on a spree so I am not 100% certain. It just seems clutch, roller weights(if they have them), or belt related to his problem. He said the engine worked good on its stand and did not bog out then. When he gets on it and there is weight on the scooter then it seems to have this problem. It seems if it was fuel related or air related, the bike would bog even on its center stand.
You should be able to use the old ones if you are careful when you take the cover off. You may want to use a rubber hammer to help break the cover loose once the bolts are out that hold it on. Gently tap around the edge of the cover to help break it loose. Take it off easy so you do not tear the gasket. Its not like any fluids are going to come out. If the gasket does tear in some places just use gasket seal to help glue it back on.
Well I managed to get the transmission cover off fine, but due to the fact that I don't have an impact wrench I couldn't do anything else. It looks really clean in there though, almost new, and the belt looks awesome and like new as well. I measured it and it's the right width.
I'm starting to think that it's maybe not the rollers, because I don't think the bike would open up down that hill like it does if they really were bad. What I didn't mention is that it opens up down the hill, but when you reach the bottom it loses speed and starts bogging again. Could it have something to do with the physical orientation of the bike, in that somehow it only gets good power when it's pointed downwards?? Also when I'm riding and it's bogging down, if I jump up off the seat/floorboard to shift weight off it for a second it's still bogging just the same. Could this be caused by a dirty carb? I've run some carb cleaner in the gas through it but I've never cleaned it by hand, I have no idea what it looks like inside.
PS another possibility: I have only ever run the bike with about 1.5 inch deep of gas in the tank (no idea why), could this be causing it?
I'm starting to think that it's maybe not the rollers, because I don't think the bike would open up down that hill like it does if they really were bad. What I didn't mention is that it opens up down the hill, but when you reach the bottom it loses speed and starts bogging again. Could it have something to do with the physical orientation of the bike, in that somehow it only gets good power when it's pointed downwards?? Also when I'm riding and it's bogging down, if I jump up off the seat/floorboard to shift weight off it for a second it's still bogging just the same. Could this be caused by a dirty carb? I've run some carb cleaner in the gas through it but I've never cleaned it by hand, I have no idea what it looks like inside.
PS another possibility: I have only ever run the bike with about 1.5 inch deep of gas in the tank (no idea why), could this be causing it?
I was under the impression and everybody else was too Im sure that you did clean the carb. Of course you have to take it apart. Thats the first thing you check for when the engine starts to act up such as bogging. Running carb cleaner with the gas is not an option. You have to phisically take it apart and unscrew the jets and spray carb cleaner through them and every inch of the inside of the carb. You have to phisically hold the jets up to light and be able to see light through the little holes in them. Liberally use carb cleaner in every opening you can find in the carb. Did I make my point yet?
Oh yes and keeping the tank low on gas is not good because condensation can build up inside causing moisture in the gas and rusting the inside of the tank. Also if you ever do get it running good do yourself a favor and put a gas filter on it. That helps keep the little debris from finding its way to the carburetor. You will have to cut your gas line from where it comes out of the vacuume valve otherwise known as fuel valve or petcock and goes to carb. Put the fuel filter somewhere in between there and it may save you headaches from always having to clean the carb.