having trouble keeping it running

BlakeBuckley · Post by **BlakeBuckley** » Tue May 06, 2008 3:43 pm

ok so i will start it up and it will run fine for about 5 minutes, but once it gets wormed up it will bogg down and shut off. you can start it back up but it will not rev up, just bogg down and shut off. the only thing i have done to it is on the fuel valve under the tank. for some reason fuel would not come out of it anymore so i took it off and put a direct line to the carb. i took the hose that would normally put the vacum into the valve and i clogged it up with a bolt and left it alone. has anybody had this problemb? i have worked on it and worked on it and i am about ready to give up on it.

CharlotteSpreeRider · Post by **CharlotteSpreeRider** » Tue May 06, 2008 3:48 pm

I'd try to get a plug chop in quickly while it is running if you can. Clean the carb, and check the bystarter for proper operation. The bystarter needle is supposed to move outward to close the cold start enrichening circuit when the motor warms up. If the needle doesn't move, you'll run really, really rich which will make it run like crap. You might also want to check for voltage to the bystarter. It's only powered off the alternator, so the motor has to be running to check it.

-aseigler

79vwrabbit · Post by **79vwrabbit** » Tue May 06, 2008 3:56 pm

I think you're just having carb troubles. After the engine gets warm (about 5 minutes or so) the bystarter is done doing its job. So your mixture when the bystarter is off isn't correct. More specifically, your idle circuit is off just a bit and won't let the engine idle. You should probably start by cleaning the carburetor well, as it seems to be a very common problem on these small machines. Make sure you get the idle circuit very well and take all the jets out and make sure they're clean. I like to use Q-tips and spray the ends of them with carb cleaner and then work them around everywhere. They're great for digging into air and fuel passages and they let you get almost anywhere.
Then set your air mixture screw out where the manual says. It'll probably need slight adjustment from there for good throttle response.

BlakeBuckley · Post by **BlakeBuckley** » Tue May 06, 2008 4:04 pm

what is a plug chop?

BlakeBuckley · Post by **BlakeBuckley** » Tue May 06, 2008 4:06 pm

oh that bystarter thing is what the wires are going to on the carb. those got ripped off. i totally forgot about that. so that makes sense. is there a way to bypass that or get a new one? there is a yellow wire and a green wire on it does it matter witch wire goes to witch slot?

79vwrabbit · Post by **79vwrabbit** » Tue May 06, 2008 4:33 pm

Haha, well that would definitely cause you some problems. If the bystarter is still on there, you can test it, but you'll have to rewire it first. Where were the wires cut? They're not too hard to reattach though if there's still some left. Just solder (or twist if you're desperate) together some new wires to the old ones and it should work (if the bystarter is okay).
If the bystarter doesn't work, you'll have to replace it. Ebay might be kind to you, but some other members of this board might sell you one at a fair price.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Tue May 06, 2008 9:28 pm

Ya, if the the bystarter is unhooked the "choke" is only on and it will only run cold, bystarter is an auto choke that makes the bike pretty much ride able right away without screwing with anything, installed so stereotypical women could drive it. But it is a b**** if it ever fails.

mopedman · Post by **mopedman** » Tue May 06, 2008 11:34 pm

yea i hate bystarters