muriatic or hydrochloric acid!
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muriatic or hydrochloric acid!
is this the best to clean aluminum for a cylinder?
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- burnt_toast
- Veteran OG

- Posts: 3469
- Joined: Sat Jul 31, 2004 8:00 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA
toasted a cylinder and need to clean it up not sure what they have for oversize but it not gonna take much but i will go over rather than use the stock molossi bore. the other one is the same way so i have got to issues but i have the one running as i put on a polini corsa. its in the process of getting btroke in now .. i have a 170 main in it and its none to rich 50 pilot . i think its going to a nice build too, seems we always have to do something wrong i know the 138 main is never gonna cut it,,
everything will be ok will be looking to get some miles on it now if the weather holds. here in iowa its wet now days flooding everywhere the mississippi is a half mile from me and its not gonna be pretty from what they say.. anyway all is well and so nowi will have a spare big bore .
is the molossi a nikasil coated cylinder? or the polini? i know my airsal on the kymco is.
everything will be ok will be looking to get some miles on it now if the weather holds. here in iowa its wet now days flooding everywhere the mississippi is a half mile from me and its not gonna be pretty from what they say.. anyway all is well and so nowi will have a spare big bore .
is the molossi a nikasil coated cylinder? or the polini? i know my airsal on the kymco is.
burnt_toast wrote:I think either will F the cyl up if it has the nikasil plating..
Just light wetsand crosshatch with something like 600-800grit outa do, whats this going on and what is the problem?
i did that while i was breraking it in . the heat was a little easier to keep down. its pretty wellbroke in now with 450+ miles now and i have the jetting at 155 main and a 48 pilot.also needle clip in the middle. tried to go to a 150 main and the heat builds too much .. if i were to ride in only places where speed is maybe up to 45 i could lean it way down and still run good temps.. even a 140 main would work then , i ride out on the secondary roads. that means i want to roll at least 45 all the time and out in tnhe country bucking the wind and some hills you work the little motor hard and need lots of fuel if we want these things to live. i have a 152 main on the way and it may work.i am happy with how the thing runs now.. it will gps at 75 mph and even more if ya hold it.. most of the time with no help from the wind its bout 65 mph gps speed, its able to spool up to 9960 rpm observed and that is way over 70 mph. its fast for a little scooter. this is the motor with the polini bore on it .. 6 g rollers. its a rocket from the dead stop. all in all its a decent performer. it does do a good job of pulling me around. i weith in at 190 and am 6' and i nevr tuck to see how fast i can go, i sit bolt upright andlet er eat
tru72 wrote:wow 170 main......
- burnt_toast
- Veteran OG

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Kenny_McCormic
- CBR1000RR

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- CharlotteSpreeRider
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you bet. been there as i have an idea most have had a motor heat up a little too much i just plain screwed up on mine but when i tried again i done good because i paid attention . the fuel is a bit much but it ran decent for what i was doing and it kept i cool for brake in..will stil get close to 400 you can usuallyy just give a throttle and it cools off. if not you have to get way off the throttle. that don't happen often if you ru it wot its stays cool but at part therottle and pulling it faily hard it will get warm. just something that need to be watched. didn't waste much fuel that is for sure.
CharlotteSpreeRider wrote:Running rich and wasting gas is better than running lean and melting the engine.
-aseigler
Muriatic acid eats aluminum, right?
This is safe to use on stock Honda bores, which are all iron, and any other iron bore. You can also put it in phosphoric acid; makes the iron nice and shiny.
Nickasil is usually used on aluminum bores; acid can be used with an earswab applicator in the affected area but keep a bucket of water nearby to dunk the whole thing when done. Usually if you get melted Al on this type of bore it's trashed anyway.
This is safe to use on stock Honda bores, which are all iron, and any other iron bore. You can also put it in phosphoric acid; makes the iron nice and shiny.
Nickasil is usually used on aluminum bores; acid can be used with an earswab applicator in the affected area but keep a bucket of water nearby to dunk the whole thing when done. Usually if you get melted Al on this type of bore it's trashed anyway.
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so your saying if we get a melting piston on a molossi or polini we should be ok as the cylinder is not nickisil, as far as i know.
Thanks
Thanks
noiseguy wrote:Muriatic acid eats aluminum, right?
This is safe to use on stock Honda bores, which are all iron, and any other iron bore. You can also put it in phosphoric acid; makes the iron nice and shiny.
Nickasil is usually used on aluminum bores; acid can be used with an earswab applicator in the affected area but keep a bucket of water nearby to dunk the whole thing when done. Usually if you get melted Al on this type of bore it's trashed anyway.


