Need help for an eBay Spree that wants to run fast!

[docmackinnon]

I adjusted the needle so the tiny lockwasher is at the top setting- this I gathered from the manual is the Lean setting.

I also adjusted the throttle cable. Still have good movement up and down with it, and again, I made sure the needle assembly is seated properly.

I tried to take it for, a run....didn't even make it out of the driveway!
Died in a dreadful way.

I'll go out later this evening and pull it again, cleaning it well before reassembly, and I'm also going to change the oil in the tank. I have no idea if it is the proper Honda spec 2-stroke oil in there. So, I have a fresh bottle from my local Honda shop.

Doc

LATER NOTES:
1- Drained oil, replaced with Honda 2-stroke. Oil tank filter in great shape!
2- Found that carb has stripped threads for one of the screws- thus a gap between carb and brown gasket.

Now I can at last tear down the carb. But should I retap the unit for a slightly larger screw? Or try to find a replacement carb?

Doc

[docmackinnon]

I AM AT MY WIT'S END! AAAARRRGGGHHHHHH!!!!!!
(A primal scream always helps settle things.)

Here's the latest:
1- I took the carb off, took it down and cleaned it. Put it back together and mounted it- with no improvement. In fact, it will start and run only for a few seconds. That's when I noted carb mount problems.

2- CARB MOUNT
I found threads to the outermost bolt were stripped out, so I took a metric jam-nut, ground it down a tiny bit, and it slips perfectly into that gap between the carb body and the part that no longer has threads. It snugs down nicely, as does the innermost bolt (by cylinder cover).

Now my problem- I can clearly see a gap between the carb outlet and the brown bakelite heat shield. Yes, I made sure the o-rings were facing correctly.

What do I do for this gap? I'm getting frustrated with these setbacks.

Doc

[Kenny_McCormic]

As long as the orings are sealing the gap is no problem. I think your main jey is *.

[docmackinnon]

aww jeez...where the * do I find that?

Now for the gap, the o-rings DO NOT close it- so I am going to tweak it with some material I bought for my 1954 Humber Pig. (a 53 year old 14,000 pound British Army armoured transport.)

[Kenny_McCormic]

aww jeez...where the * do I find that?

Now for the gap, the o-rings DO NOT close it- so I am going to tweak it with some material I bought for my 1954 Humber Pig. (a 53 year old 14,000 pound British Army armoured transport.)

sorry meant to say MAIN JET try replacing it.

[docmackinnon]

I found the reason for the gap. The threaded section on the outer carb body where the bolt fits in, it somehow got warped; perhaps when I slipped in the jam nut (less than 1/2 the thickness of a normal nut).

So I replaced the O-ring with a slightly larger diameter one, and the gap is now sealed, with both bolts tightened very carefully.

Still no luck with getting it running. It will run for about 15 to 30 seconds at a high rev, then die- no matter what I do to the throttle, it makes no difference.

I'm debating on getting a new carb and throttle cable assembly.

[docmackinnon]

I got Old red fired up and running pretty darn well- until I tried riding to work last year. Going to work was fine. But coming home- I was barely making it to 20 mph. Got stopped by a motorcycle cop on his Harley.
"Are you gonna cite me?"
"Nah...I'm gonna have a smoke while you try to get this thing to go close to 25...then take it home and don't bring it out until it can do 30!" Nice guy- held the flashlight for me while I adjusted the carb. I made it home, but it really sucked gas!

The last time I tried riding Old Red was at a local Moped Army unit
"Fix-it & Ride" day 2 weeks later. Great weather, great bunch of moped-heads and scooterists. But Old Red fired up and made lots of lovely noise-and went no where.

We figured the clutch was toast. And we found a fracture in the carb body
that a silicone patch didn't seem to help. So I bought a replacement carb body, clutch and reed-valves. And misplaced them sometime after they arrived.

With the price of fuel skyrocketing- I traded a Chinese Fighter-Pilot helmet for an old 83 Spree junker- the carb fit perfectly, the autochoke needed a bit of redo as the connectors are different- and teh clutch was a rusty, nasty mess. But it cleaned up fairly nicely. Both this donor clutch and my original clutch still have good meat on the pads, and the springs function well. But I cannot get this thing to feed fuel and stau running more than a second or two. (The donor reeds are beyond help.)

Any ideas?

Rich

[seacook]

Replace the carb with a brand new one, it worked for me!

[ALOW1]

As for the muffler, I really want a Spree Speed Pipe- just can't spring the cash right now- I already can tell the difference without the muffler....I just can't stand the screaming from the engine or the neighbors!

You should not run a 2 stroke without the muffler on it. I hope you did not run it too long like that. Without the muffler on it the exhaust port on the jug could suck in cold air and you could crack a piston. Also without the exhaust the motor will lack power.

I would do a compression check on it and go from there.

[GN Racer]

Pull the bowl off of the carb. If there is fuel in the bowl around 1/2 full, then you know that the petcock valve & float mechanism are working, and that your carb is getting fuel.

If there's no fuel in the bowl, pull the vacuum line off of the manifold that leads to the fuel petcock. Then pull off the fuel line that leads to the carb. Use a vacuum pump on the line removed from the manifold(Mity Vac), or just suck on it. Gas should be coming out from the fuel line leading to the carb. If not, change the petcock valve.

While the bowl is off, clean all the passages on the carb, using a can of carb spray with the tube on the nozzle, and pull off the main jet off of the carb. You should be able to see through it. When a bike has been sitting for a long time, this is one of the first areas to clog up.

Since your Spree is unmodified, it is probably best to run a stock un-mofified airbox with filter.

Run a muffler. The bike won't run well without one.

Install a new spark plug. I use NGK BP7HS on everything, except on modified Dio engines. On those I use NGK B8HS.

I will assume that the bike has been checked for adequate compression & spark.

BTW, what is a "Spree speed pipe"?