I Hate My Bystarter

Clivester · Post by **Clivester** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 2:56 pm

On other bikes I've seen reports of people epoxying the bystarter needle and barrel into the carb then adding a "priming bulb" to use as a starting aid. Kind of like the ones on chain saws. An extra port has to be drilled into the manifold to squirt in the fuel.

It helps start the bike but typically it still runs like c**p until it warms up.

Check out this site for parts to play with!

http://www.mfgsupply.com/SnowCarbPrimer.html

Clive.

Kenny_McCormic · Post by **Kenny_McCormic** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 3:47 pm

I can just barely fit my hand/arm inside my spree to choke it off. Good thing I can, without plugging the intake the d*** thing wont run after being run dry.

CaptDan · Post by **CaptDan** » Wed Oct 22, 2008 8:29 pm

Clivester wrote:On other bikes I've seen reports of people epoxying the bystarter needle and barrel into the carb then adding a "priming bulb" to use as a starting aid. Kind of like the ones on chain saws. An extra port has to be drilled into the manifold to squirt in the fuel.

It helps start the bike but typically it still runs like c**p until it warms up.

Check out this site for parts to play with!

http://www.mfgsupply.com/SnowCarbPrimer.html

Clive.

Thanks for that link, Clive. Though slightly inelegant, something like that would suit me fine.

At what position on the manifold should the 'squirt port' be drilled?

CaptDan

Clivester · Post by **Clivester** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 4:35 pm

Hi Dan:

check out this link for a description of doing the mod on a 4 stroke GY6

http://www.rc-trucks.org/gy6-engine-performance.htm

They actually put the "squirt" inlet into the bystarter hole after the bystarter mount is removed. Not sure this would work for the Spree carb though, because its more integral to the carb body.

I don't think location of a "squirt port" in the manifold would be too critical, although proximal to the carb would be preferred.

By the way, Dan, I currently have my SB50 in pieces doing painting and tranny work. I think the bystarter is the same as on the Spree. If we can figure a way to get it to you, maybe you would like to loan it to try on your bike to test your "2 bad bystarters" theory. If it solves your problems, at least you will have confirmed its the real issue.

Clive.

CaptDan · Post by **CaptDan** » Thu Oct 23, 2008 9:20 pm

Clivester wrote:Hi Dan:

check out this link for a description of doing the mod on a 4 stroke GY6

http://www.rc-trucks.org/gy6-engine-performance.htm

They actually put the "squirt" inlet into the bystarter hole after the bystarter mount is removed. Not sure this would work for the Spree carb though, because its more integral to the carb body.

I don't think location of a "squirt port" in the manifold would be too critical, although proximal to the carb would be preferred.

By the way, Dan, I currently have my SB50 in pieces doing painting and tranny work. I think the bystarter is the same as on the Spree. If we can figure a way to get it to you, maybe you would like to loan it to try on your bike to test your "2 bad bystarters" theory. If it solves your problems, at least you will have confirmed its the real issue.

Clive.

Yeah, somehow I think doing away with the bystarter unit entirely would be detrimental to the carb's operation. Gauging by the excellent way 'Pasquale' is running (not starting), it seems to me, having that port plugged up good and tight is what the engine prefers.

I'd be interested in trying out your BS-tarter. Shoot me an email with your number and maybe I can come out to your digs and borrow it. (I promise to return it or you can send the police.

)

Thanks!

CaptDan

vinnie · Post by **vinnie** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 1:50 am

Here's some pics of my manual choke carby - maybe it's not a spree (or nifty fifty) carby cause I tried to stick it onto my working spree to get it going without a bystarter and the air inlet and fuel/air outlets are smaller than on my bystarter carby.

Post by **noiseguy** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 10:08 am

You can machine up a manual bystarter enrichment plug. I've seen those.

You can also fill the bystarter port with wax (don't use epoxy, it's not reversible) and plumb in a choke plate. I've seen that too.

You could buy a carb with a choke plate. Also seen that.

Lots of options. Personally I'd just test and fix what you have.

CaptDan · Post by **CaptDan** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 12:18 pm

noiseguy wrote:You can machine up a manual bystarter enrichment plug. I've seen those.

You can also fill the bystarter port with wax (don't use epoxy, it's not reversible) and plumb in a choke plate. I've seen that too.

You could buy a carb with a choke plate. Also seen that.

Lots of options. Personally I'd just test and fix what you have.

I agree, but factory-correct BS-tarters are hard to come by. It seems the only ones available are aftermarket units of unknown operational merit.
Adding injury to insult, no two BS-tarters are created equal; some are longer, others shorter. Then there's the resistance issue.

In the meantime, I just invested in a $3 'choke.' It's a small Craftsman screwdriver that fits neatly in the 'paper clip' under the seat. Each day when I start the bike, I remove the 'choke' from its clip, work the mixture screw, and fire up the motor.

It's nice to know the temporary 'solution' is neatly tucked beneath my rear.

CaptDan

Clivester · Post by **Clivester** » Mon Oct 27, 2008 1:11 pm

vinnie wrote:Here's some pics of my manual choke carby - maybe it's not a spree (or nifty fifty) carby cause I tried to stick it onto my working spree to get it going without a bystarter and the air inlet and fuel/air outlets are smaller than on my bystarter carby.

Looks like someone has tapped out the bystarter port and done a manual bystarter conversion.

On second thoughts, looks like the carb originally had a manual bystarter that was removed, then rigged up with the cable.

Clive.