Ok, its torn down. Everything looks ok? No? Whats next?

[Dac]

After flushing you need to flood the bottom end with oil and dump out the excess.

No.

i would put maybe an once in there and shake the case around. make sure it gets on all the bearings.

dont fill it or you will never get it all out. and that can end up a huge problem on its own.

[Dac]

with my sundiro i had i sprayed it all out with carb cleaner and didnt put any oil in there. And that bike ran fine until we broke the chain case and lite it on fire.

You can get away without using oil. but using oil is strongly adviced. Any metal on metal without lube is a bad.

[scooternewby]

OH MAN! I hope this works!

[scooternewby]

So i was turning the pully(?) by hand today as I was flushing the motor. I noticed that at some points in the cycle(piston going up and down), the crankshaft arm would get stuck. It looked like it was getting stuck at the bearing, right between the two plates that sit on each side of the bearing.

I noticed that if I backed it up the other way a little, it would loosen. Now, this didnt happen every cycle, just intermitenly. Could that be because there was no oil in the bearings due to the cleaner? Or could there be a problem with the entire camshaft bearing assembly?

I looked in the tech docs for some literature on how to remove and inspect them. I didn't see any.

Can I have a little advice/input on this before I re-assemble?

It seemed to be getting stuck right here in the yellow circles



Thanks!

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Splitting the cases is indicated. Doing so requires special tools, precision measuring devices, lots of time and for amateurs like ourselves, courage.

[scooternewby]

So i hope maybe it was just getting stuck due to the lack of lubricant in the case at the time!

[Arnadanoob]

Well I guess I have to say it like this but keep in mind that I don't like taking shortcuts. Normally for something like that I will split the case and remove the crankshaft all together. If something requires a complete tear down, I feel that I might as well do it right, but then again I know of some guys that have success without going that route.

If the rod bearing (crank side) is not moving, that's a big sign that there's no lubrication and/or you have to replace that crank with a new one, which comes with a new rod attached to it. Having metal shavings in the block could possibly mean that some of them made it into that bearing and another seize (or further damage) is very possible. Not trying to scare you but remember I'm a little on the conservative side when it comes to things like this.

If it was just a fluke that it didn't move, try using extra lube at that area (up to 0.5 ounces) then try it again.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Do you buy that? Good bearings usually spin freely, wet or dry. Seems a shame to do all that work only to have to start over. Think it over.

[scooternewby]

Im not a short cut kinda guy either and I would love to split the crank case, but i just don't have the tools. So what i think i'll do is try to lube the bearing a little and see if that stops the sticking.

If not, I guess it's off to the tool store (sometimes my favorite spot)!!

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Check what you can from topside. Crank at top; jiggle the rod. It should not move side-to-side more than a mm or so. There should be NO play up&down. If there is, split the cases and see why. If it's OK, proceed with another wash & lube. I'm hoping it's OK.

[jstone]

To split the case all you will need is a flywheel puller. Splitting the crank is a whole different animal. The crank is actually 2 halves that are pressed together with the rod inbetween them.

[scooternewby]

Greetings:

Check what you can from topside. Crank at top; jiggle the rod. It should not move side-to-side more than a mm or so. There should be NO play up&down. If there is, split the cases and see why. If it's OK, proceed with another wash & lube. I'm hoping it's OK.

If that is a solid technique, then it looks like im in good shape!

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

It's not "solid" that your bottom end is OK. It's just about all you can tell without opening it up. The Manual outlines the procedure in the Aero book with service limit values.