mousewheels wrote: I've found that the wire will not go through, it bottoms out in the carb housing. Reason is just as you read, the passage is offset in the housing. Tore apart a scrap '85 Aero carb for this pic, but have seen the offset passage in other Honda carbs.
You wouldn't happen to be in computer based training while you're not fighting spree ignorance crime, would you, Mousewheels?
Christle, the link on air filter cleaning is pretty good as far as it goes. Now pull the complete airbox and probe down inside for blockage. Mice and dirtdobbers just love little places like that to build a nest.
jimmyizdman wrote:If you can find an ultra sonic cleaning tub the carb will fit into and leave it for a while it will open the little jet. Use a proper solvent for the tub, but don't use the wife's jewelry cleaner without permission.
Another option is MEK about $20-$25 a gallon at Home Depot. Use it in a well vented area. It has a reasonable flashpoint and evaporation rate, but be safe. MEK will remove dry automotive paint in minutes. It will destroy plastic and rubber. I don't recall any of this that cannot be removed in the carb, but be sure. I have used it with no trouble. Be careful and wear gloves. It may need to soak for a while to soften the varnish.
Use an old guitar wire to poke the hole. Be gentle. Needle nose pliers in the throat can help force in the wire without bending. Keep at it soaking, poking and using compressed air and it will clear.
another thing about MEK is it can absorb through your skin and damage your liver (im sure only after years of unprotected skin contact, but why chance it) wear gloves while handling
Lunytune wrote: Now pull the complete airbox and probe down inside for blockage. Mice and dirtdobbers just love little places like that to build a nest.
Is this guy saying that the little pipe on the underside of the carb will come off (the outlet of the throttle parameter, pain in * little hole)? It's the last paragraph. I thought I read on this forum not to try and take that off/apart because it would damage it. I do believe he's tryin' to set me up for failure!
I am assuming the MEK is the same as Gunk from Autozone. Interestingly in my younger days as a mechanic, nobody told about all these things. I didn't wash my hands in the stuff, but did handle lots of carburetors without gloves.
I was on Lamisil regiment last year for a fingernail fungus problem and was under observation for liver. I'm healthy so I guess I survived carb gunk. I'm glad we have some watchdogs telling us about these things. I've been exposed to lots of stuff through the years.
Last edited by Lunytune on Sat Jul 11, 2009 3:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Lunytune wrote: Now pull the complete airbox and probe down inside for blockage. Mice and dirtdobbers just love little places like that to build a nest.
Is this guy saying that the little pipe on the underside of the carb will come off (the outlet of the throttle parameter, pain in * little hole)? It's the last paragraph. I thought I read on this forum not to try and take that off/apart because it would damage it. I do believe he's tryin' to set me up for failure!
i would leave the pipe in...seems like too much damage could come from trying to take it out
Christle, I've seen better tutorials for carb overhaul. I would never remove the brass tube they way he describes. He does make a good point on using a good screwdriver to remove the jet. Lots of people have ruined the jet by using a worn out screwdriver.
Check out Dac's thread on this. great photos and he addresses the brass tube. viewtopic.php?f=5&t=8786
I would add to his tutorial, the tube protrudes a bit in the throttle valve cavity. You can get it started with the eraser end of a pencil. Once you've pushed as far as you can and got it unstuck, then you can push it the rest of the way with a small drift punch and rubber mallet. Study Dac's tutorial before you attempt this. Once you get it out, you will notice it is not as fragile as some people think. But I tend to treat the whole carb with kid gloves. A point to make at this stage, the carb is aluminum and when reinstalling, the main bolts can be overtorqued and pull the threads. so don't over torque.
