Wiring Issues
Moderator: Moderator
Wiring Issues
I have three major issues with my 1986 honda spree. First and most major, my rear break light is always on, it was like this when i bought it. The wires that go to the right break are out of where they belong and are missing the normal black on/off pressure switch. I tried to get away with leaving them apart, but when i start it in this manner, i blow fuses. Does this sound like a wiring issue or something more? My second issue is the left turn signal does not work but the right does. The front left signal does not turn on but the back left signal stays bright when the left signal is turned on. Where should I look to fix this. The last problem is regarding the gas gauge. My gas gauge is always stuck on full since i bought it. I tested for power on the top of the tank but could not find any, I also opened up the gas tank and found that the float works fine. Any ideas for this. Im also not sure if the oil sensor is working either if you have any ideas to test this. Thanks for any ideas.
Re: Wiring Issues
Is the rear brake light on or just the rear running light? I had an 84 Honda Gyro which had a fulltime rear running light in addition to the brake light. I think it was one bulb and two elements. One or more of the brakes is probably in the start circuit and if the brake sensor switch was inoperative it may have been wired as you found it to circumvent the start sequence requirement.
What fuse is blowing? A fuse blows because the current draw through the circuit is too great for its design value. If if occurs during the start sequence then the circuit is probably connected improperly through that circuit because the starter is probably the highest draw amperage item on the scooter. So yes, it does sound like a wiring issue. It has been my experience that people who bypass electrical circuits to get around buying a part generally cause many more problems than they solve.
The left front signal not working but left rear burning bright and not flashing looks like the result of the front left bulb being burnt out. Try cleaning the contacts on the base of the bulb and the contacts in the bulb holder. If you have a multimeter then test the bulb, if not then try the bulb in the right side and try the right bulb in the left side. But clean all the contacts first. Then replace the bulb if necessary.
The gas guage is a rheostat type device and I doubt if you will find any measurable voltage, especially in the vicinity of gasoline. What you are looking for on that circuit is resistence, or ohms. Since you tried to measured voltage I think you may have a multimeter. As the float moves up or down it rubs a little bar againist some wires encased in plastic that varies the amount of resistance. The gas guage converts that into a quantity of fuel. You need to find the value range of resistence that is normal and measure what the float is actually producing. Or it could be the actual gas guage that is dead. Rule of thumb for guages depending on whether they are AC or DC powered. DC dies, AC lies! In other words a DC powered guage will generally roll back to a Zero position(that could be full or empty) and an AC powered guage will remain in the position where the power was removed, if the power failed at 3/4 then that is where the needle will remain until power is restored.
All this sounds like a lot of trouble when you want a simple answer and solution. But that is the nature of troubleshooting. It can be tedious but it will eliminate variables one at a time.
The alternative method of "poke and hope" by a previous owner is probably what produced the problems you now are trying to solve.
Good luck.
What fuse is blowing? A fuse blows because the current draw through the circuit is too great for its design value. If if occurs during the start sequence then the circuit is probably connected improperly through that circuit because the starter is probably the highest draw amperage item on the scooter. So yes, it does sound like a wiring issue. It has been my experience that people who bypass electrical circuits to get around buying a part generally cause many more problems than they solve.
The left front signal not working but left rear burning bright and not flashing looks like the result of the front left bulb being burnt out. Try cleaning the contacts on the base of the bulb and the contacts in the bulb holder. If you have a multimeter then test the bulb, if not then try the bulb in the right side and try the right bulb in the left side. But clean all the contacts first. Then replace the bulb if necessary.
The gas guage is a rheostat type device and I doubt if you will find any measurable voltage, especially in the vicinity of gasoline. What you are looking for on that circuit is resistence, or ohms. Since you tried to measured voltage I think you may have a multimeter. As the float moves up or down it rubs a little bar againist some wires encased in plastic that varies the amount of resistance. The gas guage converts that into a quantity of fuel. You need to find the value range of resistence that is normal and measure what the float is actually producing. Or it could be the actual gas guage that is dead. Rule of thumb for guages depending on whether they are AC or DC powered. DC dies, AC lies! In other words a DC powered guage will generally roll back to a Zero position(that could be full or empty) and an AC powered guage will remain in the position where the power was removed, if the power failed at 3/4 then that is where the needle will remain until power is restored.
All this sounds like a lot of trouble when you want a simple answer and solution. But that is the nature of troubleshooting. It can be tedious but it will eliminate variables one at a time.
The alternative method of "poke and hope" by a previous owner is probably what produced the problems you now are trying to solve.
Good luck.
-
Wheelman-111
- Moderator
- Posts: 10683
- Joined: Wed Oct 22, 2008 5:09 pm
- Location: Deepinnaharta, Texas
Re: Wiring Issues
Greetings:
The correct way is to split all the casings and dissect down to find the chafed bundle of wires. You can check each circuit from the connector ends but that still won't tell you exactly where the fault lies. Sometimes the problem is intermittent, adding to the adventure. It's almost always more work and time than you planned.
There's always this inviolate complete package:
http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewto ... 046#p91046
Plug'n play.
The correct way is to split all the casings and dissect down to find the chafed bundle of wires. You can check each circuit from the connector ends but that still won't tell you exactly where the fault lies. Sometimes the problem is intermittent, adding to the adventure. It's almost always more work and time than you planned.
There's always this inviolate complete package:
http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewto ... 046#p91046
Plug'n play.
Wheelman-111
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
-
bradthreee
- Board Supporter
- Posts: 1922
- Joined: Tue Sep 12, 2006 4:20 pm
- Location: MARS...
Re: Wiring Issues
Changing out the wire harness is a good idea..
Shouldn't take more than an hour
Shouldn't take more than an hour