I've mounted the new engine on the frame, connected the wires, carb, etc.
I'm getting ready to crank it up and see what happens.
My starter is still sluggish so I will start it with a drill.
I will run premix so I don't need to worry about the oil pump.
Three questions
1) Do I need to do anything else before I start it?
2) Should the throttle needle be all the way in, or all the way out of the carb? My throttle cable is pooched.
3) My bystarter needle is detached from the bystarter. Should I just remove it and use the bystarter to plug the hole?
Thanks for your help, crew. Hopefully things are going to work.
Tyler
Sick Little Scoot -> Ready to run?
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If you're not running the oil pump, I would disconnect the lines and plug the input to the manifold. Rerun the output of the pump back to the input to keep oil from going everywhere. Any reason you're not using it?
I'd run the throttle idle at whatever the factory spec is. I'd be tempted to hack the existing throttle cable so that you can at least actuate the throttle by hand.
I'd get your bystarter put back together before running it.
I'd run the throttle idle at whatever the factory spec is. I'd be tempted to hack the existing throttle cable so that you can at least actuate the throttle by hand.
I'd get your bystarter put back together before running it.
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Not sure if the oil pump is working or not. Maybe I will install it and prime the lines, then.
I'm not sure that the bystarter can be reassembled.
I have a spring, a pin, and the box with the wires. Is there any way that these can be reassembled? I've found nothing in the technical manual on this, and I can't see how they go together.
I'm not sure that the bystarter can be reassembled.
I have a spring, a pin, and the box with the wires. Is there any way that these can be reassembled? I've found nothing in the technical manual on this, and I can't see how they go together.
Do a search, there are guys that have put these back together, and had pics.
Oilers don't often go bad, but they do plug, esp. on stored scoots. That's why cleaning the oil tank and lines is critical, as well as checking for oil flow.
Oilers don't often go bad, but they do plug, esp. on stored scoots. That's why cleaning the oil tank and lines is critical, as well as checking for oil flow.
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Thanks. I realize that I'm missing the brass barrel on the bystarter. Maybe it's still down the hole. I'll check tonight.noiseguy wrote:Do a search, there are guys that have put these back together, and had pics.
It's going to be a couple more days before the big start while I get the bystarter reassembled (or the hole plugged), the throttle cable jury-rigged, and the oiler connected.
I thought my starter woes might have been a weak jump battery but nope. I jumped it off my new car battery and no difference. I'm going to take the terminals off the scooter's battery and clean them. Maybe that's the problem -- since I'm jumping onto those posts.
Last edited by twsnagel on Thu Oct 13, 2005 3:44 pm, edited 1 time in total.
i dowbt that is the proble, because you are still making contact to the wires, with the clamps. you might want to check the starter ground wire/connectors for corrosion.
00' sa-50 slammed and stretched
89' elite sb, with a 99' af16, (SOLD)
87' spree (SOLD
87' mustang gt vert kenne bell, irs.
90' mustang notch turbo drag car
12' wrx
89' elite sb, with a 99' af16, (SOLD)
87' spree (SOLD
87' mustang gt vert kenne bell, irs.
90' mustang notch turbo drag car
12' wrx

