Carb flooding

[roadie114]

Anybody know how to remove the limiter cap from the air/fuel mixture screw? I'm down to either a stuck float vent, or running too rich due to a/f screw. I've cleaned the carb 3 times, but never actually scrubbed the float vent. It runs great but leaks gas out the float drain tube and the air filter.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

I've never seen the limiter you mention on any US Honda scooter, but I know what you mean. It's plastic. Vise-Grips always worked for me... Removal of the limiter is Highly Illegal, but necessary to permit realistic mixtures at idle. We'll send you a cake with a file baked in.

I would encourage you to replace the float valve needle - the little cylinder with the conical rubber tip that's hooked to the float. Even if it "looks" fine, microscopic imperfections can prevent it from sealing the fuel flow. It can stick open as well as closed. A functional vacuum fuel petcock prevent the problem when stopped, but a faulty float valve will flood the carb when running regardless of that.

Polish the seat with toothpaste or polishing compound as described in another thread.

[roadie114]

Greetings:

I've never seen the limiter you mention on any US Honda scooter, but I know what you mean. It's plastic. Vise-Grips always worked for me... Removal of the limiter is Highly Illegal, but necessary to permit realistic mixtures at idle. We'll send you a cake with a file baked in.

I would encourage you to replace the float valve needle - the little cylinder with the conical rubber tip that's hooked to the float. Even if it "looks" fine, microscopic imperfections can prevent it from sealing the fuel flow. It can stick open as well as closed. A functional vacuum fuel petcock prevent the problem when stopped, but a faulty float valve will flood the carb when running regardless of that.

Polish the seat with toothpaste or polishing compound as described in another thread.

Thanks for the response. Actually, the mixture screw has a notch at the tip, and it's actually metal. The only way the get it off it seems is to dremel or file it down to allow the screw to turn. I can turn it ccw about 3/4 turn, but it doesn't change anything. I've tried to yank the thing straight off, but it won't budge. The service manual shows it's stock, and needs to be broken off, then the screw replaced. I'm still under the impression it's a stuck float valve needle or there is dirt in there. I rode it for about 5 minutes and let it idle for about 10 minutes and it was fine, until I added some oldish gas (my bad), and before I installed an added inline fuel filter. So I probably got something in there. It's an 80 with only 6000 miles, but it sat for a good 15 years. Replaced all fluids, air filter, plug, cranked right up.

[Wheelman-111]

Greetings:

Sorrry I presumed it was a 2-stroke 50. In that case just address the float valve issue and don't change anything else for now. If it's a 4-stroke 80, your limited low-speed mixture adjustment range should be enough to get it running once the carb's clean.

[roadie114]

Greetings:

Sorrry I presumed it was a 2-stroke 50. In that case just address the float valve issue and don't change anything else for now. If it's a 4-stroke 80, your limited low-speed mixture adjustment range should be enough to get it running once the carb's clean.

Yep, sure enough I found one grain of sand holding the float open. I found a local shop that had one and swapped it out just in case. Flooding is gone. The only issue I have now is that once it's cold, it's very hard to start. But once it's running and warmed up, it runs great.