Smokey and low power - rings or oil pump?

[bradmeehan]

I'm working on the second bike in the batch of Sprees I bought last week. This one is an 85.

I did the usual: drained gas, cleaned carb, new air filter, fresh oil. It started on the first crank. But...

It smokes like a chimney and is WEAK. It's also very loud - much louder than my other two.

I've read that the smoking could be a leaking oil pump, however the other symptoms sounds like rings. Has anyone had this smokey/wussy condition?

I checked the compression and it was 80-ish but that's been the reading on every test i've done with my Harbor Freight tester. Even on a bike where i JUST replaced the rings so I'm not sure how accurate that meter is.

[SpyderMike]

is the main jet in tight? exhaust tight? sounds to me like you have over rich conditions...hows the plug look?

[bradthreee]

Try swapping out the exhaust and see if that helps. If so your exhaust is either clogged or has a leak.

[bradmeehan]

Could be. I'll check it out. It's an IOWA so it has that additional restriction to clog up.

I should mention that the 'noise' i describe was more of an engine noise, not a lack-o-muffling noise. It's more of a grind/rubbing sound.

[bradmeehan]

Plug looks more on the black side, than 'chocolate brown'. I'm running with the air screw out two full turns. If it's too rich, it's not for lack of that screw being open enough.

When I removed the plug, it was hotter than shyte. Like, more than operating temp hot (i'm not a human thermometer)

I'm going to start with a good muffler cleaning this weekend. I'm good at sippin beer by the fire pit.

[mrT]

i think i'm having the same problem, i might have the wrong grade of oil, but let me know what it was if u fix it

[bradmeehan]

The smoking stopped after a muffler cleaning. The low power was my clutch was rusted and wouldn't grab. The loud sound us a bearing that I'm still working on. Start with a muffler cleaning. I'd also pull the head and scrape the carbon from the top of the piston.

[Bear45-70]

80 psi for compression is not good if, the engine was warm (compression test should always be run on a warm engine). Honda says 113 psi minimum, the forum number usually batted around is 90 psi. To check the rings, pour a 1/2 teaspoon of 2 stroke oil in the spark plug hole with the engine at TDC, let sit for 5 minutes and repeat the compression test. If the number jumps up 15 psi or more, the rings are bad. Of course with a two stroke this test pretty much just tests your gauge.

[Lunytune]

80 psi for compression is not good if, the engine was warm (compression test should always be run on a warm engine).

Sounds good if you got a running engine. But if it's DOA, you only have one choice>>> Run the test cold.

[Bear45-70]

80 psi for compression is not good if, the engine was warm (compression test should always be run on a warm engine).

Sounds good if you got a running engine. But if it's DOA, you only have one choice>>> Run the test cold.

But he said

"It smokes like a chimney and is WEAK. It's also very loud - much louder than my other two."

Sounds to me like it is running.

[bradmeehan]

That's right. It runs. I think my gauge is crap. What do I expect for $9.99?

The loudness turned out to be a bad bearing. I'm in the midst of swapping parts over to another crankcase.

The smoking was a filthy muffler. Chunks of carbon came out of it.

The no power was likely the muffler and my rusty clutch.

We'll see

[Lunytune]

(compression test should always be run on a warm engine).

Bear, in his case, yes his engine was running. But you said "compression test should ALWAYS be run on a warm engine". That is not ALWAYS possible.

[Bear45-70]

(compression test should always be run on a warm engine).

Bear, in his case, yes his engine was running. But you said "compression test should ALWAYS be run on a warm engine". That is not ALWAYS possible.

And for an "acurate" reading, a compression test "SHOULD" always be done with a warm engine and it should also be done with a "KNOWN" good gauge. If the engine does not run, you live with what you have but it is not how to get accutate information.

[Lunytune]

it should also be done with a "KNOWN" good gauge. If the engine does not run, you live with what you have but it is not how to get accutate information.

Bear, you have to make decisions based on the best you have. If a cold test is the best you can do, then you have to make a decision based on that.

I have a Proto compression gauge that I've had for over 40 years and will put it up against anything you've got. My readings are far more accurate than needed for a decision.

[Bear45-70]

it should also be done with a "KNOWN" good gauge. If the engine does not run, you live with what you have but it is not how to get accutate information.

Bear, you have to make decisions based on the best you have. If a cold test is the best you can do, then you have to make a decision based on that.

I have a Proto compression gauge that I've had for over 40 years and will put it up against anything you've got. My readings are far more accurate than needed for a decision.

I actually have 3 good compression gauges and at one time one of them was certified to be within + or - 2%. I just haven't bothered having it recertified since I retired.