Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

the bystarter only gets power when the engine is running .Plug it on a 12v batterey and leave it for 5 mins

Clip should be in the middle position. All you can tell from the plug after a long ride is that there was combustion and maybe some oil n there and it wasn't reallllllly lean. Do a search on plug chops and look for bear's instructions on how to read a plug. You read it deep down inside where you need a flashlight and sometimes a little magnification helps. Use a new plug and install it right before you do the run don't let it idle for long and go right to top speed WOT on a flat area, go 1/8 to 1/4 mile then cut the kill switch while still WOT and roll to a stop pull the plug and inspect. If it still dies out at WOT you need to address that first before doing plug chops because you already know what the outcome will be why waste a plug until it goes wot properly, then double check with plug chops. Did you get the air box gasket sorted if it has no gasket make one asap, that lid has to seal or will always run lean and burn that piston up quick. Somewhere I have posted on how to cheaply make an air box lid gasket from the peel and stick foam gasket you find in the hardware store in the section with all the stuff for sealing around windows and doors.

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Thank you, I have 6 new plugs.

The airbox warpage was an inner flange, not the gasket area, my bad. Gasket was in there, now lid fastened down with new screw actually helped, climbs hills now. Will test bystarter on battery for 5 mins. You know what, its like it has amost no vaccuum until 15mph, then it takes off.

Clip middle position? Whoa! I'm gonna change it.

Raw:

Here is information on plug chop - I have never done one (hence noob):

http://hondaspree.net/wiki/index.php5?t ... Plug_Chops

If you do what Pat suggests to check your bystarter, it sounds like the best method / per the service manual.

Tell me you have download the bible for your Spree..

http://www.hondaspree.net/other/Spree_NQ50_84-87_1.pdf

Go ahead and kill a tree - I did and that thing has garage dirt and grease on pages and well dog-eared.

Find intake passage on the carb to the bystater. Use a baby aspirator per Pat.... the passage should pass air when cold as the bystarter and body will be up (opening the passage); hence no vacuum.

Once warmed up (running spree not ignition) the body and needle move to close the enrichment circuit.... you should not be able to move air after a 5 minute ride on the air passage to the bystarter - hence vacuum created.

If you bystarter is up and not closing... this (in most cases) will cause you to bog at WOT (too much fuel). If someone compensated for this by adjusting the main needle to lean - this would make sense.

Here is a post on the bystarter:
http://hondaspree.net/wiki/index.php5?t ... at_It_Does

Here is a cheap replacement you can try:
http://www.amazon.com/Scooter-Carbureto ... oter+choke

You are getting close my friend... let me know if you are following me (the inexperienced noob).

Best of Luck.

Damned bystarter!!!!!!!!!!!!

I hope thats it.


Thanks

Whats wierd about it being a rich condition is that when it died at wide open trottle
In the past, blocking the intake with a finger, brought it back to life.

what is the number size of the main jet 62 68 ?

I dont know the jet size

It is on the main jet... you have to unscrew it to get to the emulsion tube for cleaning.

You have remove the emulsion tube and cleaned it... correct?

I had the jet and emulsion tube out like 6 times.
But I didn't see a number.
I never put jets in anything/changed sizes.
so I was not looking for a number.
Now I wish I had.

No worries...it is probably 68 (as it should be).

Okay,

So here's the skinny.

I took throttle slider/needle thing out and diconnected the cable.
I took it inside and got the reading glasses and bright led flashlight.
I was previously wrong, the needle circlip was actually on the next to
richest setting. I went to the richest setting possible and rode it.
Marked improvement.
Check this out, there were scrapes and burr's on most all of the
Other notches. Someone has been enriching it over time as it
gets leaner I suspect. I am going to fix the problem and
hopefully put the needle back in the middle.
I am going to replace the 28 year old start valve, float, needle and seat, o-rings,
Crankseal, piston, jug, coil, cdi, you name it. I am fixing this thing right
No matter what. Er, so I hope, lol

Your float and needle valve are fine, if it don't leak it ain't broke. And the seat in the carb is part of the carb, just polish it with toothpaste. My 84 spree has over 4500 miles on it with original float and float valve and original carb o rings in the carb, very rarely does any one replace that stuff unless its broke. if it ain't broke don't fix it. Save your money for the crank seals and the new top end you want, they are in my opinion better bang for your bucks. Especially now you can get a brand new stock cylinder , piston, rings and gaskets for about 80$ shipped for the spree. Or a big bore kit and intake carb setup for a few hundred from Taz.

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the after marked cdi will not help you at all..... save your money you will gain nothing ...
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