Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

kurremkarm wrote:Before: 28-30
After: 30-34

Sounds about right, good to hear that it works. That's what I'm getting on the '84/85 that I have here. Much better cruising power 20-30+ is the major benefit.

Check out your pulley setup. There should be a washer between the crank and inner pulley. If not, get one ASAP, it'll trash your crank if it's not there.

Should go crank, thin washer, inner pulley, outer pulley (teeth), thick washer (I think) and nut.

That downpipe was a little crusty. I did what I could to clean it up with a die grinder, but the goopy welds really need a torch to address.

Fulltilt: the top pipe looked too long from the pics. If it matches it should work right. It should be loud as *; it's a flow-through system with silencer. The donor pipe you're using is identical to my first one. The last batch I got had chrome silencer covers, much nicer than the red ones. You may want to play with deresticting the stock system; more broad-band but not the same top-end improvement. Sounds like in TX these aren't work messing with, though. Shame.

noiseguy are u still running ur asawed off exaust or are u running ur hp piesw in ur sprees? im accually thinking about sending you my downpipe for my spree. i would love one of those pipes.

I've got 3 more chambers to sell yet... PM me if interested.

I took my pipe back off and went back to the stock fire cleaned pipe. Way more mid range power and it stioll pulled me right to 35. I still may license this thing, I can't decide. It's still pretty fun to cruise around on.

what u took of the pipe noise made for u?

No, I took off the chambered pipe I made. There is a picture a couple pages back. I don't think mine worked as well as Noise's did.

I really think one thing that I am going to do when I get a MIG welder (I can't manage to stick weld thin steel) is to design and make some sort of flange system, held on with springs. The header on my Elite 50 is the biggest pain to take off if needed. Are those the pipes that eBay seller "gear junkies" or "alien motors" (can't recall) is selling? I asked him about those. Maybe, just for looks, you could cut and weld the stinger so the silencer goes angled up, for a cooler look. And, if you have a TIG welder, or spool gun for your MIG welder, you could then angle the outlet on the silencer down, for an even cooler look. Tack $45 on for that option.

the sspring ons, i made a coustome flange like that for my viza venome, but, if its not perfect it will cibrate and screw over the whole flange.

Check out this eBay auction-

http://cgi.ebay.com/Exhaust-Muffler-Pip ... dZViewItem

It may make a good source of a chamber to adapt to the Spree and sell, Noiseguy. Though, a lot of cutting and welding would be required, and if it is stainless, a MIG welder with SS wire, or, a TIG welder ($$$$ for the TIG welder). It seems like it has that curve to it, though. The flange and diameters may be a pain to work with, too. There is a black one, but it is more expensive.

That's not a bad looking pipe... I wonder if it's stainless or painted.

A 110V MIG is all that's required on these pipes to weld, and only at middling settings. I'd think that if you bought some thin flux-core rod (.035") you could run it through your stick welder fine at the lowest setting to weld the thin muffler stuff.

I'm assuming you have a 220V Lincoln Tombstone welder. I'm keeping an eye out for one of those for heavier material, the 110v's will only handle up to 1/8" with flux core (1/4" if you can get to the back and make a second pass.)

Nope. Miller Thunderbolt, and I was running DCEN at 25a with 1/16" rods, and still burned through some pretty thick sheet metal (20 ga). I'm looking into a Hobart Handler 140, for normal welding, too. It'd be nice to have a MIG welder.

Mmm. 25A should be OK, but that rod's too thick I think. Not sure what's out there for stick, but I'm betting .0625" is about as thin as they get. You need about half that to squeak by. I wonder what voltage you're running?

I'm using a Lincoln SP-135 (Lowe's box special,) which is a 110V wirefeed, and don't have much exp. with stick welders. You seem to need a lot more current with MIG process than stick.

I think about 40v. Since you've built a few chambers from others, would the chamber work with the header welded to the beginning, to get around the dang fan shroud? I fear it would mess up its sound wave reflecting ability.

Also, in the "Phongeer Long" exhaust, is that a expansion chamber with built in silencer?

se50 wrote:I think about 40v. Since you've built a few chambers from others, would the chamber work with the header welded to the beginning, to get around the dang fan shroud? I fear it would mess up its sound wave reflecting ability.

Also, in the "Phongeer Long" exhaust, is that a expansion chamber with built in silencer?

I think the 110V welders are running around 20-30V, which may be the other part of the problem.

Can't emphasize enough, welding it in place on the bike really makes things easier and fit better. I can put one together pretty quickly once I've tacked it together installed on the scoot. Prehaps you can tack it with your stick welder, and run it over to a friend's with a MIG?

The pipe you pictured looks like it would make the bend around the fan shroud. You just weld it so that it fits, but you need to keep the downtube length the same as the donor pipe. That's how you keep the intended performance.

Not sure on the "Phongeer Long" exhaust, but the one you have picture is exactly that, an expansion chamber with a silencer. Some have covers over the entire thing, which is fine, but heavier.

i think that since that i sold the elite i should get the pipe for the spree.