Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Greetings:

You could go to an autoparts store and rent a better one, but for under $10 you can have a good-enough one to call your own:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=92697

There's a lot of good reading in the Tech sections that you evidently haven't done. Taking the clutch apart can be tricky and/or dangerous if you're not prepared for the force of the Contra spring. It's also easy to round off that thin 39mm nut. If you can't improvise the tools, maybe you shouldn't attempt.




A C-clamp, chain holder, a Workmate, and a big-* adjustable wrench can succeed if you get everything to fit just right. Otherwise the clutch can try to decapitate you.

Only way to check the reeds is to blow softly into the mani and listen for a B-flat. If they just "whoosh" they may not be sealing, despite appearances.

Thanks wheelman, looks like that is on my to-buy list. And yes, i have a very boring job and have looked at most everything the tech page has to offer. seeing that i live in a small apartment with 2 small tool boxes. If i need to fix something its usually an improvisation. seing as i dont have the right combo of tools do i leave the clutch till i eliminate everything else.
Good way to check the reeds, that is next on my to do list

Did you measure the width of the belt? It may "look" good but still not be in spec.

Max, check the belt sides.See if they are glazed/worn/frayed,because it's the side of the belt that does the power transfer.Good luck.Carp

Hey Wheelman, I didn't know you were a musician. B flat? So now you've invented a new kiind of instrument.

I pulled the cover on my SR50 to check the belt. It had a hesitation on takeoff, and launch was a skyrocket. Belt measured 14.3mm. I believe the limit is 14.5mm. Time to go shopping for a belt for decent price.

carp wrote:Max, check the belt sides.See if they are glazed/worn/frayed,because it's the side of the belt that does the power transfer.Good luck.Carp

Thanks carp, I must have skipped over that, I assumed it was the teeth part. I guess i'll have to tear into it tonight. Also, i dont have a micrometer so i would have to use a ruler?! would this even be sorta accurate?

To take off the nut it's not that hard but I have impact tools both air and electric. Just stand on opposite sides of the clutch nut and impact off with a 39mm. Tilt your toes up at the same time and if the clutch jumps it'll move away from you. Always use eye protection when you do this.

However for reassembly, I found this tool to work the best. You can do it with the help of another person but you might not have that luxury all the time when you're by yourself. The product is very well made and is very easy to use. I use it for my shop but for home tuners, if you have a few friends that want to pitch in to buy one of these, you won't regret it.

http://ztrproducts.com/content/view/32/2/

Arnadanoob wrote:However for reassembly, I found this tool to work the best. You can do it with the help of another person but you might not have that luxury all the time when you're by yourself. The product is very well made and is very easy to use. I use it for my shop but for home tuners, if you have a few friends that want to pitch in to buy one of these, you won't regret it.

How much was it? I can't find a price on that site.

There are certainly redneck ways to do it, but that is one fine tool. A fellow would have to do several though to make it pay for itself, however that much is.

I missed out on an estate sale recently, retired cycle mechanic. As there were no scooters on the sale list, I passed. Shudda went just to see what kind of tools might have been there. Most tasks can be done with simple tools but the clutch compress and gear R&R need special tools. The clutch job could hurt somebody.

Greetings:

Pretty nice tool to compress the spring. With a couple of pins to prevent rotation, it would be genius. As it is, it'd be hard to remove a tight locknut and/or apply the factory-specified torque. I'll stick to my redneck method.



At least since that pic was taken I found a 39mm socket. Just a little less rednecked. Still red-faced.

ok, so i did some more work and tore in to the piston, just for the * of it really. the seals look good but while im in there i might aswell replace them. But a big problem i did find was the exaust port was over HALF clogged. so i went at it with picks and shovels and pb blaster and eventually got it cleaned out. good this have been the root of the evil?

maxhog wrote:ok, so i did some more work and tore in to the piston, just for the * of it really. the seals look good but while im in there i might aswell replace them. But a big problem i did find was the exaust port was over HALF clogged. so i went at it with picks and shovels and pb blaster and eventually got it cleaned out. good this have been the root of the evil?

What are the seals you are talking about? The rings? If so, yes, might as well replace them. Don't forget to hone the cylinder.

Yes, the exhaust could have been the problem. You won't know until you get it all back together.

hone the cylinder? i'll look into that. And yes sorry i did mean the ring's, it will be a week till i get new ones so i'll just have to see what changes.
Thanks everyone

Greetings:

MaxHog axt:

But a big problem i did find was the exaust port was over HALF clogged. so i went at it with picks and shovels and pb blaster and eventually got it cleaned out. good this have been the root of the evil?

Yes indeed. Mixture gets burnt, can't get out, impedes next intake charge. Poor power is the inevitable outcome. The question is: Why's it so carbonized? Mileage? Poor choice of oil? (Honda-san's engineers formulated GN-2, but you can save hundreds of pennies per decade using something else...)

While you're waiting on your new piston rings, you might try reassembling whatcha got and doing a compression check. See my first post. If it's 100-ish, bolt 'er up and see if it runs.

While you're waiting on your new piston rings, you might try reassembling whatcha got and doing a compression check. See my first post. If it's 100-ish, bolt 'er up and see if it runs.

Do you think his old gaskets will seal?