Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

jimmymac313 wrote:

Bear45-70 wrote:
No, it does not.

LOL! ok, well I have experienced diffrent gains in diffrent automobiles than you I guess. But I still appreciate the replies.

I started working with engine back when we had real gas and regular would work in engines with 10 to 1 compression. You on the other hand obviously know less than nothing about engines and performance and the fuel they need and what it will do for said engine. Without timing measuring equipment or a dyno, the gains your butt feels mean less than nothing because more often than not your butt lies. Any compression lower than 9.0 to 1 will never see any performance improvement with premium fuel. You may even experience a loss due to plug fouling. I really hate teaching basic engine school again and again.

jimmymac313 wrote:LOL! ok, well I have experienced diffrent gains in diffrent automobiles than you I guess. But I still appreciate the replies.

No one is disputing that you may have experienced gains in higher detergent gasoline, but two points. First of all, detergents target carbon, not varnish. Secondly, all gasolines have a high degree of detergent nowadays. There's a lot of blowing in TV ads, but truth is, they are all pretty much the same in detergent capabilities.

Some gas stations are now offering an additive in your gasoline as you pump for a certain price. But I question the performance gain. Kinda goes along with STP and Slick 50. There are additives available at the parts store and Walmart that you can add which are designed for two purpose. First to absorb water and carry it on through the system. The other is to dissolve varnish and paraffin. Of those offered, Seafoam is without a doubt the best. It is about the only one that will do the job on small engines, such as scooters, chainsaws and lawnmowers. I have added it to scooters that were running subpar and by the end of the tank, you could notice a difference in performance.

Bear45-70 wrote: I started working with engine back when we had real gas and regular would work in engines with 10 to 1 compression. You on the other hand obviously know less than nothing about engines and performance and the fuel they need and what it will do for said engine. Without timing measuring equipment or a dyno, the gains your butt feels mean less than nothing because more often than not your butt lies. Any compression lower than 9.0 to 1 will never see any performance improvement with premium fuel. You may even experience a loss due to plug fouling. I really hate teaching basic engine school again and again.

No offense, but I dont feel the need to be in a * match with you. Maybe you are the greatest mechanic that is out there, and maybe I aint worth s***, I am fine with that and will sleep tonite just fine. But I posted for a little help, and all you did was pick apart things that I posted that were done, but yet offered no help.

Now I am sorry that we got off on the wrong foot, but will still like some help with the initial problem if anyone has any suggestions, I am still trying to correct the issue.

jimmymac313 wrote:

Bear45-70 wrote: I started working with engine back when we had real gas and regular would work in engines with 10 to 1 compression. You on the other hand obviously know less than nothing about engines and performance and the fuel they need and what it will do for said engine. Without timing measuring equipment or a dyno, the gains your butt feels mean less than nothing because more often than not your butt lies. Any compression lower than 9.0 to 1 will never see any performance improvement with premium fuel. You may even experience a loss due to plug fouling. I really hate teaching basic engine school again and again.

No offense, but I dont feel the need to be in a * match with you. Maybe you are the greatest mechanic that is out there, and maybe I aint worth s***, I am fine with that and will sleep tonite just fine. But I posted for a little help, and all you did was pick apart things that I posted that were done, but yet offered no help.

Now I am sorry that we got off on the wrong foot, but will still like some help with the initial problem if anyone has any suggestions, I am still trying to correct the issue.

If you think this is a * match, then you are still in kindergarten in * match school.

I still think you have a fuel issue because of your high speed bog (I truly hate that term). Mainly because the engine going lean is about all that can cause that at WOT. Have you checked to make sure the screen in the tank is clear? Also that the vent in the cap is good.

Bear45-70 wrote:* match school.

Bear45-70 wrote:
If you think this is a * match, then you are still in kindergarten in * match school.

I still think you have a fuel issue because of your high speed bog (I truly hate that term). Mainly because the engine going lean is about all that can cause that at WOT. Have you checked to make sure the screen in the tank is clear? Also that the vent in the cap is good.

*yawn*


But for the help, screen in the tank is brand new, just installed, so it should be as clean as they come. What is the best way on checking to see if the cap vent is good, I took a look at it, and thought that is was ok.
now, if you use this seafoam stuff everyone keeps talking about in the tank, after running a full tank and it cleans it up, does it do damage to the filter with particles of grime that it has cleaned? Never used the stuff, so dont know what to expect.

jimmymac313 wrote:

Bear45-70 wrote:
If you think this is a * match, then you are still in kindergarten in * match school.

I still think you have a fuel issue because of your high speed bog (I truly hate that term). Mainly because the engine going lean is about all that can cause that at WOT. Have you checked to make sure the screen in the tank is clear? Also that the vent in the cap is good.

*yawn*


But for the help, screen in the tank is brand new, just installed, so it should be as clean as they come. What is the best way on checking to see if the cap vent is good, I took a look at it, and thought that is was ok.
now, if you use this seafoam stuff everyone keeps talking about in the tank, after running a full tank and it cleans it up, does it do damage to the filter with particles of grime that it has cleaned? Never used the stuff, so dont know what to expect.

The best way to check the vent is install the cap on the tank with fuel in it (fuller is better) and pull the fuel and vacuum lines off the carb/manifold. Place a jar, bowl whatever under the fuel line and apply vacuum to the vacuum line (a pump is best because you have to leave the vacuum on the line for sometime). Observe the fuel flow, now recheck it every 15 to 30 seconds, if it diminishes at all, the vent is restricted, if fuel flow stops it is plugged. If the flow lessens or stops, loosen the cap and if flow resumes then vent is the problem. Oh, if loosening the cap does not restore flow, either the screen is plugged or the valve is bad. If the tank drains empty with no reduction in flow, the vent, screen and the valve are good.

Seafoam is not to clean up the grime in the tank, but to clean the varnish in the carburetor. That has been the point all along on the "detergent" topic. Detergent deals with carbon. Seafoam dissolves varnish. The crud in your tank is something that will have to be mechanically removed. Most guys put something like smooth rocks or marbles in the tank and roll it around with something strong. I believe a particular acid may have been mentioned above.

Bear45-70 wrote: The best way to check the vent is install the cap on the tank with fuel in it (fuller is better) and pull the fuel and vacuum lines off the carb/manifold. Place a jar, bowl whatever under the fuel line and apply vacuum to the vacuum line (a pump is best because you have to leave the vacuum on the line for sometime). Observe the fuel flow, now recheck it every 15 to 30 seconds, if it diminishes at all, the vent is restricted, if fuel flow stops it is plugged. If the flow lessens or stops, loosen the cap and if flow resumes then vent is the problem. Oh, if loosening the cap does not restore flow, either the screen is plugged or the valve is bad. If the tank drains empty with no reduction in flow, the vent, screen and the valve are good.

Appreciate this info. I will try this later tonite, or possibly tommorow morning. The cap test that I did, was when I ran the premium out of the tank, I left the cap off and went down the block to the gas station, and filled it up. Still seemed to bog down a little.


Lunytune:
The seafoam pretty much becomes maintance free after putting in the tank correct? And also due to the spree's small fuel tank, do I use only a half bottle, or still the full bottle?

jimmymac313 wrote:Lunytune:
The seafoam pretty much becomes maintance free after putting in the tank correct? And also due to the spree's small fuel tank, do I use only a half bottle, or still the full bottle?

Good Lord NO! A 16 ounce can works in a full tank of automobile gas. In small engines, an ounce to a gallon is fine. I generally function more from gas cans than filling up at the station, so I doctor my cans for all my use, lawnmowers, scooters and all. I don't run it all the time, but when I have something running sluggish and going into the winter. Then best to drain tanks for winter and start with fresh gas in the spring.

This may not solve your problem, but it sure won't hurt. And I really think it will help you some and hopefully full recovery.

Lunytune wrote:

jimmymac313 wrote:Lunytune:
The seafoam pretty much becomes maintance free after putting in the tank correct? And also due to the spree's small fuel tank, do I use only a half bottle, or still the full bottle?

Good Lord NO! A 16 ounce can works in a full tank of automobile gas. In small engines, an ounce to a gallon is fine. I generally function more from gas cans than filling up at the station, so I doctor my cans for all my use, lawnmowers, scooters and all. I don't run it all the time, but when I have something running sluggish and going into the winter. Then best to drain tanks for winter and start with fresh gas in the spring.

This may not solve your problem, but it sure won't hurt. And I really think it will help you some and hopefully full recovery.

gotcha! never had the stuff so I wasnt sure. But I pretty much figured it shouldnt be the whole can! I will grab a can of that tommorow and see what it does for me. Thanks for the info.

i think they tell you to use the whole 16oz can of seafoam in a 20gal tank IIRC

ill just give you a quick ratio formula

16oz/20gal= .8oz per gallon

i have a 15 gal tank on my car and ive ran a 16oz can through it w/ no ill effects so im sure 1oz per gallon will work just fine

SpyderMike wrote:i think they tell you to use the whole 16oz can of seafoam in a 20gal tank IIRC
ill just give you a quick ratio formula
16oz/20gal= .8oz per gallon
i have a 15 gal tank on my car and ive ran a 16oz can through it w/ no ill effects so im sure 1oz per gallon will work just fine

No guesswork to it. Instructions and applications are spelled out on the back of the can. It even has instructions for treating crankcase and transmission.

For small engines such as scooters, lawnmowers and weedeaters, both 2 stroke and 4 stroke, it's one ounce per gallon. Two ounces per gallon won't hurt, just not necessary unless you've got a stubborn problem.

i had a few sticky rings in my 93 saturn sl2 put seafoam in the oil and after a week changed the oil and no more smoke also did a boat motor with seafoam i llove the stuff