Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Feral_Sparky wrote:I vote the petcock is bad. Mine did the same thing. Might be nasty, but pull your vacuum line off and suck on it, if you get a mouth full of gas, your petcock is bad.

A petcock made the engine run fast at idle? Only if the petcock vacuum line was bad. If the diaphragm in the petcock was bad you would have fuel in the vacuum line causing the engine to run very rich and slow, not fast. A leaking fuel petcock would NOT and never could cause this problem.

Petcocks usually plug causing NO FLOW I cannot see a petcock being an issue. You have a major air leak somewhere. Crack in the tube? gasket not seated properly? Too many holes drilled in the airbox? You are getting gas Rule out the Petcock....

Bear45-70 wrote:

zuphilius wrote:

spewya wrote:buy that i ment the slide is inserted properly and the cable is 100% functional

Okay, my bad. Carry on.

I don't believe it. The slide is either in wrong or you have a giant (read easy to find) vacuum leak. I still say the slide is not in right. Especially if the idle speed screw has no effect.

the idle screw has no affect when i loosen it . when i tighten it it will rev really high. .. what would be the next trouble shooting step for me to figure out the problem??? im totaly new at this and i dont understand some of the stuff that im being told to do if it was explained in high detail i would probably under stand more..im sory for the troubles and i thank you all for the help but its just that when u post reply and tell me something else to do i dont even know to much on what im doing in the first place .. im hear to learn but some of it comes confusing to me.. well any ways what one is the vacume line on the pedcock the one on the side or bottom??

BOttom. Take the airbox tube off your carb side of the carb. Look inside the carb. You should see a grey thing that slides up and down wen u move the throttle. There should be a half.moon notch type think takin out of one side. Unscrew the black thing on top of the carb that has a cably going into it. Pull whats inside out, then rotate it so that when you put that grey thing into the carb. The notch is facing the back of the scooter.

spree-rider wrote:BOttom. Take the airbox tube off your carb side of the carb. Look inside the carb. You should see a grey thing that slides up and down wen u move the throttle. There should be a half.moon notch type think takin out of one side. Unscrew the black thing on top of the carb that has a cably going into it. Pull whats inside out, then rotate it so that when you put that grey thing into the carb. The notch is facing the back of the scooter.

I thought I said that a few posts back, he said he has it in the correct way.

yes . cable and slide is in the correct way

The only things left are a throttle cable is to short or you have a vacuum leak.

would you explain all i can do to check for a vacume leak . like what do i do and were do i stat to check for that..

get some permatex. google it. unbolt the whole intake and inbetween each part where there is a gasket. put that stuff on it per the diresctions on the bottle. then let it sit for 24 hrs and your good to go

spewya wrote:yeah when i first got it there was a bolt missing on the intake and the other one was snugged up to were it was pullind it apart and leting in alot of air .. i repaced that and it didnt solve the problem

This right here tells me you need NEW intake gaskets and don't be glooping Permatex all over your engine. It looks like crap and it is a total pain to clean up when you take it a part the next time. While replacing the gaskets on both sides of the reeds block, check the reeds while they are out.

Greetings:

Alarm bells go off when I hear of a "missing" bolt. If it backed out, could it be because some ham-fisted previous owner managed to strip the threads in the crankcase? Proceed with caution and if necessary, with thread inserts. This isn't a good place to guess. Make certain of the seal.

what do you mean .. i fixwed the missing bolt thats no longer my problem.. so what should i do next.. ones saing use permitex some sing no .. im so confused

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

Alarm bells go off when I hear of a "missing" bolt. If it backed out, could it be because some ham-fisted previous owner managed to strip the threads in the crankcase? Proceed with caution and if necessary, with thread inserts. This isn't a good place to guess. Make certain of the seal.

Greetings:

If the surfaces are smooth and true, adding goo won't improve the seal. Liberally greasing the gaskets makes disassembly without gasket destruction more likely.

Check for vacuum leak indirectly by inspecting the spark plug after it runs a while. If the insulator below the center electrode is paler than say, cardboard, there's too much air getting in. Inspect for leak directly by shooting some flammable liquid or gas in the area of suspected air penetration. I use an UNlit propane torch, but brake cleaner can work too. As the engine runs at a steady RPM, if a squirt of Volatiles changes the RPM at all, it indicates a vac leak.

Headbolts get loose, exhaust flanges can back off. Crank seals can cause issues too. Any evidence of oily mist getting out past the seal at either end of the crankshaft is abnormal. Squirt around all these areas to confirm if the idle or RPM speed changes, and proceed accordingly.

thats how i would test/check for a vacume leak?????

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

If the surfaces are smooth and true, adding goo won't improve the seal. Liberally greasing the gaskets makes disassembly without gasket destruction more likely.

Check for vacuum leak indirectly by inspecting the spark plug after it runs a while. If the insulator below the center electrode is paler than say, cardboard, there's too much air getting in. Inspect for leak directly by shooting some flammable liquid or gas in the area of suspected air penetration. I use an UNlit propane torch, but brake cleaner can work too. As the engine runs at a steady RPM, if a squirt of Volatiles changes the RPM at all, it indicates a vac leak.

Headbolts get loose, exhaust flanges can back off. Crank seals can cause issues too. Any evidence of oily mist getting out past the seal at either end of the crankshaft is abnormal. Squirt around all these areas to confirm if the idle or RPM speed changes, and proceed accordingly.

spewya wrote:thats how i would test/check for a vacume leak?????

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

If the surfaces are smooth and true, adding goo won't improve the seal. Liberally greasing the gaskets makes disassembly without gasket destruction more likely.

Check for vacuum leak indirectly by inspecting the spark plug after it runs a while. If the insulator below the center electrode is paler than say, cardboard, there's too much air getting in. Inspect for leak directly by shooting some flammable liquid or gas in the area of suspected air penetration. I use an UNlit propane torch, but brake cleaner can work too. As the engine runs at a steady RPM, if a squirt of Volatiles changes the RPM at all, it indicates a vac leak.

Headbolts get loose, exhaust flanges can back off. Crank seals can cause issues too. Any evidence of oily mist getting out past the seal at either end of the crankshaft is abnormal. Squirt around all these areas to confirm if the idle or RPM speed changes, and proceed accordingly.

Your reading comprehension sucks.