Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Dac wrote:

veedubh20 wrote:those home made tech job,, can damage and add pressure on left crank bearing. just buy cordless impact gun 12v.

12v impact? sounds weak.

nope, 12v impact is the s***! up to 150ft lbs torque

Got mine from harbor freight for $20 on sale and its the best investment for doing clutch jobs.

This is the one, retail $40:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=92349

those home made tech job,, can damage and add pressure on left crank bearing. Laughing just buy cordless impact gun 12v.

that is true, and crank bearing damage succckks ive been there.

whoa, cheap and strong. i might get me one of those. my air compressor is border-line blowing up so i need to find alternatives real quick

BTW the clutch is located in the rear pulley but at least you don't claim to know it all like some people!

stillspeeding wrote:BTW the clutch is located in the rear pulley but at least you don't claim to know it all like some people!

dude, for all i know your the smartest person in the world when it comes to mopeds. you could be... but going by what 2/3's of your post are (pure bull s***) i have a hard time believing.
For real... Prove me wrong. post helpful stuff. Help out noobs. show some pictures of your mopeds. list what you got and whats been done to it.

stillspeeding wrote:BTW the clutch is located in the rear pulley but at least you don't claim to know it all like some people!

well no duh.. I don't use my impact for taking off vari, I use an oil filter wrench for that. The clutch is where you would really need to use an impact unless you have a tool to lock the clutch in place.

I know what I wrote smart *.

Hey there,
Just want to say that the scooter in this pic is different then the one in the original link of a spree. The drive face cover on the spree was a different bolt pattern.

Greetings:

Many ways to exfoliate a feline. Here's one that cost under $8:

http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB2/viewto ... ght+holder

The chain is a bit fussy to get on at first but easier/faster with practice. No power cords, air lines to track down and no risk of engine case damage. Works great on the clutch bell too! Hook to the 9th pin from the end for the starter gear, the 8th for the clutch.

How do you set the torque for the nut with an impact wrench. It needs to be set at 43flb's for the newer Elites.

Greetings:

I would not entrust my crankshaft end to an Impact Wrench of any kind, under any circumstances. Their accuracy is suspect even when the part you're hitting isn't free to spin around AND subject to rebound from piston compression. That said, you set the specified torque according to the instructions on your gun/attachment.

Sears sells a couple different sizes of "clicker" torque wrenches for ~$50 last time I looked. The Aero manual says ~29 ft-lbs for both the drive and driven pulleys. Maybe you read 43 Newton-meters? Careful you don't end up with a crank end in your socket. That could ruin your whole riding day.

For loosening I dont see the problem. Tightening should be done with a clicker style torque wrench and strap wrench to hold it.

Greetings:

KMcC opines:

For loosening I dont see the problem.

Good point. The threads will let go before enough force is applied to fracture the shaft.

Tightening should be done with a clicker style torque wrench and strap wrench to hold it.

What He ^ Said!

Veeduhb- wrote that the home made removers put excess preasure on the left side crank bearing, how so? If so why is the torque wrench not doing the same thing when you tighten the nut?

Trade secret: Nylon rope in the spark plug hole. Nylon won't damage the cylinder/piston and it stops it from reaching TDC.

qaz wrote:Veeduhb- wrote that the home made removers put excess preasure on the left side crank bearing, how so? If so why is the torque wrench not doing the same thing when you tighten the nut?

By propping something against the drive face, when you turn the nut, you are basically pushing on the crank laterally. It is like you are prying the crank away from the block, which of course puts pressure on the bearings.

By supporting the drive face on it's own with a strap wrench (or slipper like I do) you are tightening/loosing the crank on itself, not the block. It isn't twisting away from something, just twisting on itself (axially).

Not to mention, the method with the wrench on 1 kicker case bolt is a sure way to strip your case, those threads are very weak. The block with 2 mounting holes is a bit better, but you can still strip 2 holes, not to mention your trashed crank + bearings.

Greetings:

I wanted to say something along those lines, but 808 beat me to it. The cases can probably withstand the 30 pounds of torque needed to apply, but here again, do you want to ruin your whole day if it can't. This Vise-Grip looking thing is under $10 at Harbor Freight:


and it's useful for clutch dismantlage too. It's tricky to set up and wrap the drive face pulley, but gets easier with practice. The price sure is right, compared to a wobbly crank or cracked case.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/D ... mber=36813

Get yours while supplies last...