Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

That would be a symptom of an air leak aye?

Or a clogged main jet.

Took the bystarter off ran power to it and the needle did not move.

Look in tech docs for the guide on how to rebuild your bystarter.

http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1504 this is what Kenny is talking about. But you might be better off just buying one. I could be wrong but there are a few people on this site that might have an extra they'll sell cheap.

Does anyone have a bystarter for sale?

your best bet would be to go the Wanted / For Sale part of this site and post something like...

Want to Buy Spree Bystarter. wrote: Hello every body, im looking to buy a bystarter for my spree. Does any one have one, and if so how much?
I would need it shipped to [your zip code], Let me know.

or something like that. That way people who are looking to sell parts, who only really look in that section will know.

yeah, just like that.
Best of luck finding one.

Did you realy watch the needle carefully?
It moves V E R Y slow....

I thought mine was bad, but turned out I was just impatient.

Right now, my engine dies once it warms up, which I believe must
be a carburator problem still. The reason I'm thinking this is because when the bystarter is cold, it is in the UP position, which chokes the
engine and allows more fuel. The longer there is power applied to the
bystarter the more it closes, and the carburator relies on the jets.

Is this the correct theory??....

-=WRX=-

You are correct sir.
But more importantly is to check the cold start jet into the float bowl.
It must be clean, and the hole it fits in has a very small port in it. If this port is clogged, and I've seen 9 out of 10 rebuilds plugged. It doesn't get the fuel it needs.
Check this port and let us know.
Thanks

Just a side thought , toasted rings?
i know on my ringed glow motors once the rings get soft they wont run when they get warm (more than 1 pass down the strip (132 ft.)

And yes thats exactly how the bystarter circuit works, but if it starts cold the jet must be clear, it not closing however is a nother story

s*** mine has run with the bystarter removed ever since i started working on mine. (but mine was/is an abortion i'm trying to straighten out

Nah dead rings usually make it impossible to start but is runable once warmed up but wont idle.

upsmale:

Where do I find this elusive cold start jet?
got any pics or a better description of it's location?

Thanks

Would this also be the reason I would need to use starting fluid to get the thing to fire up when it's been sitting for a couple of days???...

I installed a temporary vinyl hose from the fuel petcock to the carburator, so that I could get a visual on how the fuel flows. After a couple of days of sitting the hose is almost empty. Also, I noted that when the bike is running (after starting it with starting fluid) the line dosn't fill up... is this normal, or a sign that there isn't enough vacuum applied to allow full flow??

I tested the vacuum line and petcock operation awhile ago by pulling both hoses off the carb and sucking on the vacuum hose. Fuel came gushing out the correct hose. Seems strange that it dosn't do the same when the engine is running, but I suppose there really isn't a constant vacuum being applied by the reeds flapping....

if you remove the float bowl, look right under the by-starter.
There is a tube that projects into the bowl.
This tube can be removed by tapping it from the underside. It is then going to pop out from the top of the carb. You will see little air jets drilled into this tube. Make sure they are clean.
On the bowl side, (circled) there is a port that this tube fits into. And in this port there is very small fuel inlet hole (arrow). This must be clear! If you suck on the top of the bowl (circled), where this port is, you should draw air if the hole is clear.
This is the cold start circiut, that is seldom mentioned anywhere.