Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Clip is inside the throttle slide, its pretty self explanatory after unscrewing the throttle form the carb.

keithw wrote:

vanbry wrote:How 'bout checking where the clip is set for the needle on the throttle slide. Move the clip higher(making the needle set lower) to richen up the mix a bit.

Is this correct? I thought that lowering the clip to raise the needle would make it richer. The needle is tapered going into the nozzle so it seems like raising it would allow more fuel in. I have been known to be wrong on frequent occasions though.

keithw

You are correct. It is me that is wrong this time

Some carbs have 3 slot needles instead of 5.

Kenny_McCormic wrote:Clip is inside the throttle slide, its pretty self explanatory after unscrewing the throttle form the carb.

ok, what does the throttle slide look like?

kaaos82 wrote:ok, what does the throttle slide look like?

It's called the throttle valve in the illustration. It sounds very confusing but it's easy. I just had to do this myself so I know. *lol*

Look at the illutration and imagine the needle and retaining clip falling straight down into the throttle valve/slide. Thats how you assemble it. You have to carefully push the retaining clip down into the throttle valve after you put the pin with the little clip attached. Then you just slide the spring down into the throttle valve with the throttle cable going through it and attach the cable back to the throttle valve and reassemble.

ok....Used the manual to inspect the throttle valve. Going to look now

how do i get the throttle thing off....does it screw off or pop off?

kaaos82 wrote:how do i get the throttle thing off....does it screw off or pop off?

Unscrews. Counterclockwise loosens, clockwise tightens (lefty loosey, righty tighty).

The metering needle adjustment clip can be accesed by unscrewing the top from the carb. The slide will then pull out by the cable. Pull the spring back and put the end of it over the side of the slide to get it out of the way. Push the needle up, with your finger over the top of the slide so the retainer won't fly into a far corner. Once you find the retainer, there is a little E or C clip at the top of the needle. This will be in one of several grooves. I've seen from three to five gooves on various carbs. The stock position is the center. AFAIK lower grooves are richer and higher are leaner. On two strokes start rich and work toward lean.

keithw

hrmm moved it down to position 5, and ive got a trace of smoke coming out of the exhaust and my porcelain stayed white, only about 15% of the porcelain turned cocoa.....like a strip of it

It Blackened an old plug while just adjusting the idle. So it seems like sometimes its getting to the plug just fine....ugh

Anyone besides me thing that the hole "Plug Chop" thing is flawed?
i think that it requires allot more then just a mile or two.

Every plug chop i have every done (1 or 2 miles) has always come back lean. But if i put in a new plug, wait till 15 miles, then do a 1mile long WOT chop, it comes out perfect.

I dont see how his 100% stock bike, could be running lean. It dont make since that honda would make a bike that is always lean. It dont make any since at all.

Dac wrote:Anyone besides me thing that the hole "Plug Chop" thing is flawed?
i think that it requires allot more then just a mile or two.

Every plug chop i have every done (1 or 2 miles) has always come back lean. But if i put in a new plug, wait till 15 miles, then do a 1mile long WOT chop, it comes out perfect.

I don't see how his 100% stock bike, could be running lean. It dont make since that honda would make a bike that is always lean. It dont make any since at all.

Most of these were built in the 80's, before the oxygenated fuel BS started. To make the fuel burn cleaner they added either MTBE or Ethanol. Either of these will cause an engine to run lean. Modern fuel injected cars automatically adjust. Vehicles with carbs need to be adjusted for the change. When they were changing back and forth for summer and winter I had to adjust carbs twice a year to keep things running right. An stock engine jetted to run on 80's gas will run lean on most modern gas. Two strokes are very sensitive to running lean.

If moving to the richest needle position made it better then go to the next richer main jet.

The plug fouling at idle is an entirely different problem. Running rich at idle is not entirely bad. Makes starting easier and helps cool when you close the throttle.

Listen to what your engine is telling you. It knows what it wants way better than someone who has never seen it.

My humble suggestion would be to go richer till it starts to four stroke at the top end then go one needle groove leaner. I have been known to be wrong but you won't melt your piston to the cylinder wall from running rich.

keithw

Dac wrote:Anyone besides me thing that the hole "Plug Chop" thing is flawed?
i think that it requires allot more then just a mile or two.

Every plug chop i have every done (1 or 2 miles) has always come back lean. But if i put in a new plug, wait till 15 miles, then do a 1mile long WOT chop, it comes out perfect.

I dont see how his 100% stock bike, could be running lean. It dont make since that honda would make a bike that is always lean. It dont make any since at all.

Not all the way warmed up?

lol, i never thought about it.