You do realize this diagram is wrong. If you look at the headlight curcuit you will see there is no way to get power to the headlight if you open, go to the high beam position, of the switch.mousewheels wrote:Update --
PimpinSpree sent me the bad regulator, and I made some measurements, It's clearly bad, and as measured, it would account for at least a discharged battery - even with the ignition switch off. I marked resistances measured on the schematic below.
In the failed regulator, there is a current path from battery to gnd and battery through the stator coil to gnd. Resistances are low enough to discharge the battery in a few hours. That confirms cause of a dead battery in earlier post by PimpinSpreethe fuse blew over and over and i couldn't figure it out. I was still baffled today, but today it didn't blow, But today i found i had a dead battery, its charging now. Im not sure about the regulator, i havn't tested it yet
Next - an attempt to de-pot the regulator was made. But turns out the regulator is potted with two different compounds. The top is silicone rubber like, which removed fine with paint and epoxy remover. But the lower layer, would not even soften. Guess it's not epoxy! I tried a heat gun to soften it but gave up after 10 or so minutes...
Anyone got advice for what to try next to de-pot this part?
The pic below shows what's under the first layer of potting compound. There was a burnt spot in the lower potting compound (circled in magenta), presumably a failed component is under that area.
turn signals not working
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Bear, I noticed that too, some service engineer was asleep when he drew this.
The switch for high beam should drop down to the point outside the box. It would then light the high bulb and the HB indicator.
The switch for high beam should drop down to the point outside the box. It would then light the high bulb and the HB indicator.
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