Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

,someone can click the picture and circle the screws he's talking about,(dont know know to do that yet).i'm guesing he changed his spark plug and turn the wrong screw.he would like to know how to adjust the air/mixture screw to get everything running right.(download the manual,was what i am saying to myself).hope this helps.

hondaman wrote:Hondaman laughs and dismisses you with a wave of his hand!

Found them today it was just hiding, my air screw i turned out 1 and 3/8th turn like the manual said after making sure it was tight (not too tight) and i changed the plug, (which ended up being the wrong plug so i put the old one back in) added some GN2, and looked at the air filter which was clean and new looking. I did a plug chop before messing with the air screw and it was very rich on half of the plug the other half was like new. I played with the idle screw today too and the only way i could get it to idle without the wheel moving more than a little was to have the screw tightened all the way, i this normal?. Also when i went to change the plug the old one was so loose it was about two turns from coming out of the thread so now i tightened the old plug to spec and it runs like crap smoking and gets to 15 great but then slowly chugs to 20 MPH even down hill it seems like its holding back as soon as it gets to 15.

Sorry for the long post just wanted to be as descriptive as possible cause this sucks.

Thanks,
Mark

Markymark wrote:Found them today it was just hiding, my air screw i turned out 1 and 3/8th turn like the manual said after making sure it was tight (not too tight) and i changed the plug, (which ended up being the wrong plug so i put the old one back in) added some GN2, and looked at the air filter which was clean and new looking. I did a plug chop before messing with the air screw and it was very rich on half of the plug the other half was like new. I played with the idle screw today too and the only way i could get it to idle without the wheel moving more than a little was to have the screw tightened all the way, i this normal?. Also when i went to change the plug the old one was so loose it was about two turns from coming out of the thread so now i tightened the old plug to spec and it runs like crap smoking and gets to 15 great but then slowly chugs to 20 MPH even down hill it seems like its holding back as soon as it gets to 15.

Sorry for the long post just wanted to be as descriptive as possible cause this sucks.

Thanks,
Mark

What happens if you try to run it with the plug extra loose like it was to start with?

Same thing happens i just tried it, i got it to almost 25 down hill but it just keeps holding back it bucks a little sometimes...could this be the clutch or pads? its the SB50P if that helps.

I think you should check your plug wire and plug wire boot. Make sure the plug boot on the end of the plug wire is attached securely. Make sure there are no rips or tears in the plug wire itself. Put the plug back in all the way and do not run it with it in loosely.

you sure you didn't touch your carb?


put a spark plug in the boot, not in the motor, hold it agaist some aluminum and turn it over, see if you have a nice blue spark

and the spark plugs do make a difference. I had 2 different plugs that honda said was exactly the same. One would chop fine, and one would look lean as *

Well the other day i played with the air fuel screw and the idle screw on the SB50 is it 1 3/8th turn or 1 and 7/8th for the air fuel screw? I also ordered a new filter element so Tuesday when it comes in ill make sure to pick up a different plug just to see if it runs better. The plug wire condition seems okay is that something that should normally be replaced around 3K miles?

Thanks,
Mark

Markymark wrote:Well the other day i played with the air fuel screw and the idle screw on the SB50 is it 1 3/8th turn or 1 and 7/8th for the air fuel screw? I also ordered a new filter element so Tuesday when it comes in ill make sure to pick up a different plug just to see if it runs better. The plug wire condition seems okay is that something that should normally be replaced around 3K miles?

Thanks,
Mark

Mileage isn't what kills a plug wire, it's time. All those years since it was new breaks down the insulation causing little cracks. You need to bend the wire in good light to see if there are cracks.

i did that and saw a few hairline cracks right before the boot between the rubber protector,i didnt check anywhere else. I asked at the dealer and its like $55 for a wire and coil new. Anywere i can get a new one cheaper than that?

Markymark wrote:Well the other day i played with the air fuel screw and the idle screw on the SB50 is it 1 3/8th turn or 1 and 7/8th for the air fuel screw?

SB50 is 1-7/8
SB50P is 1-3/4

You do realize that the Spree and SB50 use a different carb/inlet? I seem to remember you said you were using the downloaded Spree manual. Make sure your vacuum and oil pump hoses are hooked up to the right places.

Clive.

Thanks, and yeah i did d/l the spree manual thats why i couldn't find the screws at first but i found them. Which lines are you talking about? is there a manual specific to the SB50P? thats the one i have.

There is, but its not available free online. They come up on eBay though.

You should have a vacuum line from the petcock going to the intake manifold and a line from the oil pump going into the carb.

Clive.

Its not an ignition problem. If it can rev to 15mph, then it should rev to 35mph. You need to clean your carb again REAL good and blow it out with compressed air. The air screw you are messing with is for idle ONLY. Its sounds like your bystarter is not working. If you can crank in the idle air screw all the way and it still runs, than you are sucking unmetered air from somewhere. If your by starter is not working then that├óÔé¼Ôäós where the your sucking air. Also a choked motor will smoke alot when its warm.

What exactly is a bystarter and what does it do? i havent cleaned out my carb at all yet.