Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

A decnt MIG unit costs a pretty penny and needs a 220 outlet. If 220 isnt a problem a used 230amp stick welder is the best buy, only got 110 and the HF fluxcore unit is the only way to go.

To those who dont like these cheap little welders, have you ever used one? and by used one I mean have you sat down for a couple hours and played with it. not made one pass, vomited after seieng it and walked away.

I've got the Miller 135. It's the 110v unit. Running on 110 limits the current and thus the thickness you can weld. Within it's capacity it is a sweet machine. For most anything you would do on a scooter it works fine. I have used the flux core wire but prefer the gas shielding as it makes a cleaner weld requireing much less cleanup afterwards. The cheap machines are not as nice to use and folks usually get frustrated with them. I think this is largely due to them not being willing to spend the time learning and practicing (there's that word again). You may be able to shop Craig's list and pick one up for next to nothing.

Pick up a few side jobs building gates and other ornimental iron work and you will be able to afford a nice machine.

keithw

Yeah, my 2 cents.

If you can get a great deal on a used HF box (less than $100) then go for it. I wouldn't pay more than 50 cents on the dollar, and the less moving parts the better.

If you're serious, spring for a 110V Lincoln wirefeed minimum. Home Depot sells these, and 10% off coupons are everywhere. I have a 110V Licoln MIG and really like it for small stuff (MIG on exhausts, flux-core on 1/8" to 1/4" with 2 passes.) For scooters 110V is fine, automotive really needs 220V (and at that point I'd get a used Licoln tombstone; you can find AC models for $100 or so used.) Gas bottles are another $150, so keep that in mind. So what are you going to do?

MIG you can do with bare hands and little cleanup; flux-core requires a slag pick and wire brush to clean up and a good set of gloves. I actually really like my small flux-core welder; it's DC (better than AC) and puts down a nice weld; it just needs cleaning up afterward.

Best advice is to borrow something rather than buy. Start networking, man, it's cheaper.

keithw wrote:I've got the Miller 135. It's the 110v unit. Running on 110 limits the current and thus the thickness you can weld. Within it's capacity it is a sweet machine. For most anything you would do on a scooter it works fine. I have used the flux core wire but prefer the gas shielding as it makes a cleaner weld requireing much less cleanup afterwards. The cheap machines are not as nice to use and folks usually get frustrated with them. I think this is largely due to them not being willing to spend the time learning and practicing (there's that word again). You may be able to shop Craig's list and pick one up for next to nothing.

Pick up a few side jobs building gates and other ornimental iron work and you will be able to afford a nice machine.

keithw

i have the same, only because i didnt have $1500 to spend on the 180 runner (even though i do have a 220V connection )
But i got a banngin deal on it $350 NIB so i cant complain

i agree though 135 is a nice little machine if you know its limitations.

If one has the the money and the 220v connection. The miller 180sd runner is one * of a machine for home or light industrial use. Id have no issues what so ever using that machine on anything my life depended on.

Kenny_McCormic wrote: To those who dont like these cheap little welders, have you ever used one? and by used one I mean have you sat down for a couple hours and played with it. not made one pass, vomited after seieng it and walked away.

Its not a question of having used it. It would work reasonably well for a while for one that knows their s***.

The bigger issue besides that already mentioned, is the quality of the internals and then availability of consumables (liners,tips, defusers,nozzles, collets etc etc). Replacement parts would be another issue. Mig welders can and do break. Even the high grade ones. But i can go into any welding supply shop on the planet and just about get every part for any lincoln,miller,hobart,etc machine ever made.

Id bet you cant do that with the HF model. $150 is a fair amount of cheddar for something so disposable. If they lowered the price to $49.99 id be more willing to look past its many short commigs.

TIG everything! hahaha

scooterwerx wrote:TIG everything! hahaha

i like the way this guy thinks

What's the least expensive tig welder from miller or lincoln?

miller has an awesome econo tig, new they are a little pricey, but a lot of welding schools use em, so you should be able to find a used one for dirt cheap. my syncrowave 180 was 1700 something when i bought it 5 years ago...but no sparks or spatter, just aircraft quality welding!

I'm not a TIG welder but here's a rough breakdown of Miller/Lincoln welders in the lower price ranges. Prices are approx discounted amounts found online.
The Syncrowave 200 replaced the 180 last year, the Diversion is a new model.

AC/DC 220v machines:
Lincoln Precision TIG 225 ~$2k TIG/Stic,, AC/DC
Miller Syncrowave 200 ~2k TIG/Stick, AC/DC
Miller Econotig ~$1.6k TIG/Stick
Miller Diversion 165 ~$1.3k TIG Only, AC/DC, Inverter machine

DC only inverter machines 110v/220v auto switching.
Both are TIG/Stick but have no AC welding output. Thus they are sold as *not* Aluminum capable. These are super small/light (under 15 lbs), But inverters have have associated complexity, repair cost and operating life tradeoffs.

Lincoln Invertec V155 ~$1k
Miller Maxstar 150 STL ~$1k

Check them out at http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig
and http://www.lincolnelectric.com

Wanna know the secret of TIG? If you can live without the foot pedal(scratch start) a AC/DC buzzbox with a tig torch is the same thing.

Still need bottle for gas

Kenny_McCormic wrote:Wanna know the secret of TIG? If you can live without the foot pedal(scratch start) a AC/DC buzzbox with a tig torch is the same thing.

I know there are articles out there for converting these; you'd still need a shielding gas, and I don't know how you'd control the power at the torch without a pedal.

I've done TIG before and really didn't care for it; I can see the advantage for doing good Al welding and welding very thin steel but I don't weld that stuff often anyway.

There are a ton of used welding rigs around Detroit being sold; you're going to see a lot more around Illinois as CAT slows down and the smaller shops get rid of spare equipment.

With out pedal you set heat off machine, like with arc welding for different thicknesses, pedal makes nice for start and stop also for variable temp (rheostat) with bottle, torch, and adjustable arc welder tig welding can be done nicely, not meaning welder with plug in settings.

noiseguy wrote:

Kenny_McCormic wrote:Wanna know the secret of TIG? If you can live without the foot pedal(scratch start) a AC/DC buzzbox with a tig torch is the same thing.

I know there are articles out there for converting these; you'd still need a shielding gas, and I don't know how you'd control the power at the torch without a pedal.

You set your amps at the mahcine and start it like your stick welding. Torch is always hot.