Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

with the stock airbox you should get a #78 jet and yes there are 2 different models of the 94-01 elite the sa50 and sa50p generally any honda elite model scooter with a P at the end means it is restricted. look on the frame underneath the floormat to see what model you have or take the main jet out of the carb and if it says 68 on it then it is restricted it is possible that the 28mph is due to it being the sa50p if so remove the plate on the back of the variator with 3 screws in it, change to a 78 main jet, get the unrestricted exhaust and punch holes in the airbox not quite sure where cause i never had an airbox the 82 or 84 jet is if you get a pod or uni aftermarket air filter de restricted you should do 38 to 40 if you are lucky without any further mods if you order the exhaust i showed you go ahead and at least get the venom racing variator with ramp plate and some new roller weights maybe 8 or 9 gram? scooter assassins may sell the main jets as well. you can get an emgo filter that fits the stock carb for arou nd 10 dollars on ebay

ok thanks for the additional info. I did mention earlier that I have the SA50P model. I am looking forward to taking the restrictor off the variator tonight. By the way I am not doing 28mph at the moment... I am only doing around 20mph.

Motley Crue Post subject: top speed only 20mph, big problemPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2011 6:30 pm


Spree



Joined: Thu Aug 04, 2011 11:23 pm
Posts: 133
Location: liverpool, ny 2000 Elite SA50P. As many of you know, I did some carburetor work on this, cleaning it in a carb bath, and getting this baby to run, when it wasn't running. The good news is, the moped now runs. Up to this time, I had no idea what the top speed was because my speedometer cable is shot, but tonight I had my brother drive his car along side me so we could check his speedometer. To my happiness actually, my moped was only maxing out at 20. I say I am happy because I thought that it was going pretty slow all along. It's good to know I am supposed to be getting another 15mph out of this thing.

Now begins the task of figuring out what to do first. I messed around with the air/fuel adjustment, but not much improvement there. I am wondering if the muffler is clogged. Maybe.
Do I take it off and see if that's the problem?
Do I clean it out with lye? Or do I do something else? Could the throttle valve be an issue? The cable? I am probably going to need to do a compression test, but I am praying this doesn't have low compression. That would suck. I don't feel like doing an engine overhaul. Guys help me out.

I am wondering if the muffler is clogged. Maybe
. Do I take it off and see if that's the problem?
Do I clean it out with lye? Or do I do something else?
boy its good to see

Hey mystic... look on page 8-9 in my manual. Is the restrictor plate that i need to remove referred to as the "drive face seal"? The piece which covers the ramp plate?

yes thats it just take it off and throw it in the garbage lol

Well i am at pep boys right nowand they dont have the universal holder tool. Neither does advance auto. I cant find that tool anywhere. Cant stop flywheel from spinning without it.

Big channel locks to hold the drive pulley works.

Or a big strap wrench

oil filter strap wrench for the clutch bell and clamp some vice grips on the toothy drive face and use a long socket wrench on the nuts just tap them loose. helps to have a helper for this hard to hold and tap at the same time. I get my mom to help me hahahha

Well bad news everyone... as bad as it gets. I had the driven gear secured with metal pliers so it would not move as I tried to loosen the nut on the shaft. It was very tough and I managed to spin the shaft, and not the nut. I thought that was weird. I wanted to make sure the engine was ok, despite that, and I started it. It sounded fine for a few seconds, and then there was a loud grinding noise like in a machine shop. I immediately shut the engine off, but there was smoke. This engine is probably destroyed. It probably screwed up whatever is connected to that shaft on the inside of the motor. No idea what to do now.

I followed this guy's lead and used his approach to try to remove the driven gear....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQWT2TEt6ZA

My guess is I was supposed to tap the wrench in order to jolt the nut lose instead of putting so much pressure on the shaft. Any idea what has been broken inside the engine from having the entire shaft move like this?

Well this nut will not come off. The engine runs fine, but then the grinding noise comes from the shaft that the driven gear is on. It was stripped or something when I attempted to remove the nut, and instead of the nut budging, the shaft did. I either need an impact wrench, or I need this nut cut off, and a new shaft. Anyone have any suggestions or ideas for exactly what was damaged?

This guy also has the same problem removing that nut.... http://www.hondaspree.net/phpBB3/viewto ... ut#p118038


I think I need a new drive shaft. I hope nothing else is messed up inside there beside the shaft.

the shaft that the nut is screwed onto is the crankshaft.

read section 10 of the manual.

there are two shafts, 1 left side 1 right side held in place by the crank pin (hondas desc) the pin has the conn. rod, rod bearing, washers. on it. All this makes up the crankshaft. If only the one side spun then you have problems.

view this breakdown, it shows how it's assy. http://www.bikebandit.com/houseofmotorc ... 5#sch93325

take the muffler off, then the engine cover off of the other side of the engine. check to see if the flywheel nut is tight. Don't know how it would have loosened while you were trying to remove the drive face side but strange things do happen