Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

waiting on parts black NCY forks are staying
the caliper and rotor will change need to cut the sterring lock back so it will lock need a place for the speedo cable to go
my aluminum triple tree is pinned to the steel shaft
so the speedo cable wont go through the center

got my 220mm full floating rotor in today
im thinking the caliper should be black
just waiting on some panel bond to repair the glovebox and the inner fender
than hopefully final assembly soon and my kickstand arrived

Hi cruz. that front end looks sweet. the brake rotor is awesome.

Any reason for switching the caliper/rotor? Just color? Any fitment issues with the NCY gear? I assume you have a NCY rear rim also?? Any fitment offsetting for that? OR was it a direct fit?

Looks great! Subscribed!!

TinyElvis wrote:Any reason for switching the caliper/rotor? Just color? Any fitment issues with the NCY gear? I assume you have a NCY rear rim also?? Any fitment offsetting for that? OR was it a direct fit?

Looks great! Subscribed!!

Any fitment issues with the NCY gear?
Hopefully I answer this below if not please ask again

nothing wrong with the rotor or caliper
I just wanted a full floating with black center
and the caliper I wanted a black one which Is gun metal in the pic ill take care of that soon
also going with black brake line and banjo bolts
not looking for anything flashy want a clean stealthy look

matching rims yes

jiangwayne.com has front and matching rear
front
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IN-STOCK-ZOOMER ... 2a403ad8f1
rear
http://www.ebay.com/itm/IN-STOCK-ZOOMER ... 27e77b388c




rear bolts right on no modifying at all stock tire sizes front rear

What size rear tire you running in the rear. and is that a straight swap on the rear rim.

Rip_City_Spree wrote:What size rear tire you running in the rear. and is that a straight swap on the rear rim.

i am running a stock size tire 3.0 x 10 the rim and tire bolts right on

a 90-90-10 would clear with a stock shock

Like those rims but doubt I'll be running a front disc anytime soon. But like the rims

Great! Just asking about fitment issues with the Rear tire really.
I have the same setup as you --- Just working on the stem

Again, looks Awesome!

Can I chime in with a question regarding your Arp setup?

When I measured my parts, this is what I came up.

Corsa head bolt hole depth: 19.55mm
Corsa cylinder hold depth: 59.436mm
Threaded hole depth in block ( not sure on actual thread depth, but the hole I got: ~20mm

So, total dept of head and cylinder is : 78.986mm

If you factor in ~20mm of thread depth, that brings us to 98.986mm total. Throw in a .063(1.6mm) washer and that brings us to 100.386mm total.

These are not laser accurate measurements, but with all being said, I was looking at using the 100mm bolts and possibly doubling up two washers or one of the .165" washers instead (if they will fit, see below.)

So if my math is anywhere near correct, I'm figuring I could use the 100mm bolts along with a washer or two and avoid having to do any machining or counter sinking of the head?

Any thoughts on this? Am I wrong with my calculations?


ARP lists two M6 washers one that is .990" OD x .65" thick and one at .890" OD x 1.65" thick. The OD seems rather larger to use as a head bolt washer. I'm not sure if it would even fit. What washer # are you using?

They also list a 1/4 washer at 1/2" OD x .063" thick. These seems like a better option ?

polini corsa & head 3.130 long (is what I measured mine at )
100mm bolt 3.937 & about .650 of that bolt is thread length
( you want about .5 thread in block )
3.937 bolt - 3.130 head piston =.807 sticking out the bottom
.807sticking out -.5 is about how far you want thread in block =.307 (5/16 or decimal equlivant is .3125) thick washer would be needed to use the 100mm bolts

the 1/2" OD x .063" thick is what I used


I used the 90mm and countersunk the head .200 of a inch on my mill
hopefully this makes sence I can talk better than I type

cruzingratiot wrote:polini corsa & head 3.130 long (is what I measured mine at )
100mm bolt 3.937 & about .650 of that bolt is thread length
( you want about .5 thread in block )
3.937 bolt - 3.130 head piston =.807 sticking out the bottom
.807sticking out -.5 is about how far you want thread in block =.307 (5/16 or decimal equlivant is .3125) thick washer would be needed to use the 100mm bolts

the 1/2" OD x .063" thick is what I used


I used the 90mm and countersunk the head .200 of a inch on my mill
hopefully this makes sence I can talk better than I type

No, that makes sense. I don't know what is up with my measurements, but it seemed that 3 - .063 washers would be just about perfect. My measurement did not include any gaskets though. Is there any chance that there could be variance in the production measurements between them?

My factory bolts measure about .75 of thread. I was going to run a bottom tap through the block to make sure all of the threads are good and clean, but when I ran one of the factory bolts down my hand without a cylinder on it, they seemed to run down about .650" which left two full threads on the bolt. Maybe I was taking into count the .750" of depth with the 3 washers. If that is the case and the ARP's have .650, that would max out those threads. This might be trial and error with washers, but I'm still feeling the 3-4 range would work without bottoming out and also get a little more than .5" of thread bite. Not questioning your info, you are a world of help. Just more thinking out loud.

Although I do have a ton of tools, I'm not fortunate enough to own a mill and I wouldn't dare try to do that without one.

Do you think stacking the cro-mo ARP washers would be a better option that using some of these aluminum spacers? They come in 1/4" ID x 1/2" OD and are available in 3/16" , 1/4" , 5/16" lengths. I'm just concetend that they may crush down?
http://www.widgetco.com/size-14-aluminum-spacers

ARP also recommends torquing the M6 bolts to 11ft lbs with their lube instead of the 7ft lbs that the factory bolts are spec's to. Torque specs are usually based off of fastener specs which is why there is an increase. You don't forsee any damage to the head, cylinder, or block by torquing to 11 vs 7 do you?

you always should follow oem Honda manufacturer recommendations
or you risk having some kind of problem

with that being said
with light oil on the thread and washers I did 9 foot pounds
if you look at it in inch pounds it is alot
7=84 inch pounds
9=108 inch pounds
11=132 inch pounds
about the spacers you can use the aluminum
but I would still have a steel washer right under the bolt head
because the bolts are designed to be torqued with the steel washers

finally starting to put back together
first the glove box
figured it would be easer to fix if I cut it straight agross
cut a piece of abs and some 3M pannelbond pn 08115
I have a glove box again
now on to the inner fender this will be the not so fun part