Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

C3Killer wrote:the motor hasn't come in yet.....

I bought one in Hawaii on June 3rd and it was estimated to be here June 16th. It just came yesterday.

Well, I'm still waiting on the "surprise," and the motor still isn't here yet. I can't wait. I want to get this thing out and open her up!

Just a little update, I polished the panels that I have painted, and it looks good! As soon as I get that left rear panel, its getting painted, and I can post more pics. I don't like posting pics 1/2 done.

updates?

You asked and you shall receive. It has been hectic here with the move and all (I move on Friday). I got my under cowl in, and my AF18E in, and messed with it a bit last night. Here is about 1/2 way through....



I have the motor in, and I drilled out my hanger to accept the larger bolt that the AF18E took. That was pretty easy. I still need to figure out the gas lines, I don't know which line goes to which fitting on the carb..... There is a clear line attached to the cast aluminum, and a brass fitting right at the bottom of the picture. I'm guessing the clear hose is the vacuum that connects to the bottom of the petcock?



And I need to figure out the throttle cable. There are two cables that come to the engine, one for the oil pump (which I don't have anymore) and one for the throttle. But I can't get the carb cap off of the throttle cable. Anyone have a how-to for this carb and a cable? If I need to buy a cable I am going to buy extended because of the extended hanger......(oh, have I said too much?)

Greetings:

The clear lines are not vacuum. Don't plug them. They're bowl (and other...) vents that let the air out of the carb so the fuel can come in. The lines are there so water doesn't invade when it rains.

You're going to need about 1/2" more free-pull on the throttle cable than Stock. It's possible to buy the 1mm stranded cable and solder on an aglet. But removing the cap can sometimes be as simple as a hard pull, and other times an expletive-filled ordeal. A tiny silver wire expansion ring sits inside the cap, engaging a groove. keeping the cable jacket from pulling out. Tiny steel probes can sometimes coax it out, but the better thing to do would be to order an OKO adjustable cable from VT Cycles and sell your stock split cable with the cap attached.

Do I understand you fully wheelman?

Greetings:

J0o goddit mang!

nice work so far. hopefully with the PG long your neighbors wont hate you.

Why is it loud? I can't wait to get this thing running! Guess what I'm doing tonight? Yeah, trying to get this thing to fire over!

yes..but an air box can fix that. for the price the pipe is pretty good.

Before heading home I stopped by the new house, found a friend....



So I finished bolting it up last night, went out, bought fuel and vac lines (extra long, think its enough?) and wired it up. A couple kicks later, vroom vroom. I don't have a throttle cable yet (I HAVE NO CLUE HOW THIS THING GETS CONNECTED!), so I just pushed the slide up with my finger to keep her going. I'm leaking fuel. I don't know from where yet. I'll look at it tonight. And my rear brake line is not hooked up fully, its just sitting there. It was sparking! Like I had a short somewhere. Anyone have any clues? It was sparking where the case meets the cable. Here are a couple pictures...



And got some yellow and orange carbon fiber looking turn signals. I don't know if I like them or not, still undecided. But here they are.

Oh, and I keep popping that fuse next to the battery! *?

Greetings:

Those sparks might explain the blown fuses, ya think? Or maybe the snake did it... For sure some wiring Gremlins, or perhaps a Pacer, have invaded.

The cable can be a PITA to attach. The free-pull needs to be at least 1/2" longer than stock. You bunch up the slide cover, the spring, and a plastic retainer that fits inside the slide, leaving the free end of the cable protruding. The cable hooks to a little teardrop-shaped cutout in the slide, then the plastic retainer must drop down just so. A second thumb grafted onto your dominant hand can be a big help. Finally, carefully release the coil spring to keep the retainer, uhh... retaining the cable in its cutout. Check for complete smooth slide travel before ignition. Don't ax how I know...

Where did you get these from?

C3Killer wrote: