Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Greetings:

Quoth Turtle13:

if your gonna keep it at 50, i wouldnt go much higher than 10:1 on gearing though. even with a pipe, porting, stiffer center spring, vari, o ringed head and 10:1s my engine at 50cc, my engine ran out of power and gear right in the low mid 50s.

That's very good info, and impressive. My Flashes I and II never went much faster despite 65cc and 7.8:1 gearing... of course they had to plough through physically imposing Wheelman Frontal Area...

i get what your saying about more power to run the taller gear but my bike is redlining or rev limiting on flat ground and itd be nice to get some fuel economy because every road is 35mph and im doing my best stay at 35+ like i said i live around a lot of hills that i go up and Down alot so i would like to be able to at least catch cars going down hill, plus ive done the pipe burn,had the main jet drilled out, and opened up the airbox and all this has really helped alot if i crack the throttle just right i can do wheelies but it hasnt really changed the top speed at all

bc117 wrote:i get what your saying about more power to run the taller gear but my bike is redlining or rev limiting on flat ground and itd be nice to get some fuel economy because every road is 35mph and im doing my best stay at 35+ like i said i live around a lot of hills that i go up and Down alot so i would like to be able to at least catch cars going down hill, plus ive done the pipe burn,had the main jet drilled out, and opened up the airbox and all this has really helped alot if i crack the throttle just right i can do wheelies but it hasnt really changed the top speed at all

The only rev limiter on the Aero is how much air the motor can pump, which is alway the limiting RPM factor with a 2 stroke.

Greetings:

If as it sounds your engine is revving itself into a wheeze, then yes, you might benefit from gearing up.
A bigger Vario face might help along with a taller rear tire.
A 3.50 tire, if it can be coaxed into fitting, buys you a full inch of circumference over a 3.00, but the exhaust boss area may need shaving to clear
It might be worth the effort for the ~6-7% upgear effect..
A 90/90 only gets you 0.36" more - like 3%.

None of this approaches an SA16 gear conversion; if you went with 9;1s you'd have over 20% taller gearing.

just a quick question before i buy the wrong thing if i get the ruckus variator will the electric start still work, do i use the ruck's gear face or the the aero's

Use the aero drive pulley. E-start will still work.

hey guys i have a chinese clutch and clutch bell laying around in my garage would this give me any speed/torque i got the idea from the "ancient chinese clutch mod" thread but not sure if it will fit or even help an aero

as of right now i am running a chinese GY6 50cc rear pulley, clutch, and front variator with 6g weights and am quite happy. my speed before with stock pulley and variator, same weights, stiff contrast spring and clutch springs is about the same but my take off and initial acceleration is quite better!

i have not done much experimenting just yet to see how things can change but am in the works. i have a thread on the AF05E engines and trans mods. just trying to see what we can do and what options we have.

ya im not sure but didnt you change the clutch spring and will the clutch work without cutting up the aero pulley cover, by the way i used my dremel to opened up the exhaust port, had to cut open the muffler drilled some holes in the first baffle then welded it back up with my new flux core mig, and polished the head wow barely any louder and now i can ride the wheelies and its not a matter of hitting the throttle just right, actually smoothed out the power too

So this is pretty much my build thread and i was updating that: I just added this sweet guitar amp speaker to my rear rack! is super loud and you can hear it even while your throttle is WFO and has pretty nice quality sound it was a cheap first act portable guitar amp that runs off 2 9v batteries, you can leave it how it is or do like i did and wire it in to the rear running light
what you need:
-Cheap walmart amp that runs off batteries (combined voltage must be at least 12volts!)
- 1/8 inch jack auxiliary cord for ipod
-1/4 inch to 1/8 inch adapter jack for the amp, at radio shack for 2.99
- double sided tape, rubber bands, or brackets just something to hold it to the rack
- soldering iron
step one: solder all the negative battery connections to negative and all the postitive to postive
step two: solder in two 10inch lengths of wire one positive and one negative
step three: lift open the seat and locate the solid black(positive) and solid green wire(negative) going to the brake light
step four: strip an inch off your positive and negative wires then unplug the green(-) and black wire(+) and only wrap your wires around the exposed end of the bullet connecter then plug them back in to the connector.
step five: turn your key, plug your ipod in, pic a song, and turn your amp on and see if it works, if it does trim down your wire to the length you like and (optional) solder the wires to the running light wires and your done!

heres some pics sorry if theyr alittle blurry

some more

Haha that's a sick idea man, sweet job

just ordered a ruckus variator off ebay any one know how much of the case to grind off? like just enough to fit or do i need a certain amount of clearance

Greetings:

Just eyeball when you get the Ruck vario. A hair is fine for clearance. The belt never protrudes beyond the rim of the pulley at the front. Someone once posted he didn't need to grind at all on his particular crankcase. Most do require some clearancing.