Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

that set is from a dd50. The af27 are hydraulic driven with the resevoir on the right side. You would want to get the whole front ent set up seeing that you would have to cut the spree head set to even try to get the resevoir to where it needs to be.You will also have to cut the neck of the triple clamp since the neck of the spree is smaller than the other honda bikes in length not in diameter.You would have shorten the length of the neck so the headset won't look like ET.

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well...almost done, here what it looks like a month ago, had to position the carb outwards to avoid cutting the rare rear plastics...just got the legs shortened and prolly install them next week...been so busy with school and work. sorry with all the atarp stuff jus trying to lay low, lots of theives, just moved and bike is indoors now.

How's your bike progressing diosoljah?!

Rabbi wrote:How's your bike progressing diosoljah?!

well, the bike is not mine its actually my younger brothers bike now, but helped him build it, but now im actually starting my new project now which is another spree and a honda s, well heres the bike now, it handles great, ride feels so much smoother and it brakes very well with the disc:

Hey bro, when you attached the new forks/brakes did you have to do any of the following?

Replace the right side brake lever and assembly with the Dio assembly (brake booster etc)?

Modify the Spree frame a bit so the forks could turn sharper without hitting those two bits of metal that stick from the Spree frame?

Check out the progress of my project in the link below... it would be cool if you could post there to lend a hand.
http://scootling.co.nz/bb/viewtopic.php?t=265&start=0

Cheers

why did you not just narrow the part of the mount that goes inot/on the frame? we dont remake that part you did,we just narrow the mount to fit into the frame.
Alos you better renforce your frame near the shock mount area ,and you want to think about doing the entire frame, and a cross brace from the top of the neck to the top of the back bone ,esp witj disc brakes and a short wheel base

85stroka wrote:why did you not just narrow the part of the mount that goes inot/on the frame? we dont remake that part you did,we just narrow the mount to fit into the frame.

Because it still wouldnt have worked, I think it depends on which AF18E you get

85stroka wrote:Alos you better renforce your frame near the shock mount area

How do you recommend I do that?

85stroka wrote:...a cross brace from the top of the neck to the top of the back bone ,esp witj disc brakes and a short wheel base

I am thinking of doing this... its not difficult, but I will probably wait until the rest of it is up and running

Rabbi wrote:

85stroka wrote:why did you not just narrow the part of the mount that goes inot/on the frame? we dont remake that part you did,we just narrow the mount to fit into the frame.

Because it still wouldnt have worked, I think it depends on which AF18E you get

85stroka wrote:Alos you better renforce your frame near the shock mount area

How do you recommend I do that?

85stroka wrote:...a cross brace from the top of the neck to the top of the back bone ,esp witj disc brakes and a short wheel base

I am thinking of doing this... its not difficult, but I will probably wait until the rest of it is up and running

pretty much all the af18e's are the same.only the mount is different,we use the mounts out of af09,af12/19 and a few others, if your's is from a af25-28 then the mount is slighty wideron the braces that connect the back to the front.
IDk about refforcing the frame everyone has a different theory,but make sure that becuase of the side location of the shock is does not twist the frame

af16 mount is good. wouldnt need to cut smile/eve subframe .


still need to cut about 1/2 inch tongue and weld the top.

wow

veedub, is it alright to remove that metal piece from the engine mount the way you have in the picture?!

Rabbi wrote:veedub, is it alright to remove that metal piece from the engine mount the way you have in the picture?!

if you talking about the tounge that goes into the frame,then No ,you need that to keep the mount from moving to far,that's why we use the mounts from other bikes to keep the mount from going over xx degrees in travel

85stroka wrote:

Rabbi wrote:veedub, is it alright to remove that metal piece from the engine mount the way you have in the picture?!

if you talking about the tounge that goes into the frame,then No ,you need that to keep the mount from moving to far,that's why we use the mounts from other bikes to keep the mount from going over xx degrees in travel

You use the mounts from other bikes?
When you say mount, do you mean the piece connected to the motor that hinges... or the bracket on the frame with two holes in it?

I ask because the hinge part on my motor doesn't seem to be removeable...

Rabbi wrote:

85stroka wrote:

Rabbi wrote:veedub, is it alright to remove that metal piece from the engine mount the way you have in the picture?!

if you talking about the tounge that goes into the frame,then No ,you need that to keep the mount from moving to far,that's why we use the mounts from other bikes to keep the mount from going over xx degrees in travel

You use the mounts from other bikes?
When you say mount, do you mean the piece connected to the motor that hinges... or the bracket on the frame with two holes in it?

I ask because the hinge part on my motor doesn't seem to be removeable...

dio mount cant remove on the main hinge was fill in rubber. , measure and cut by using hack saw, little by little just make some little room, next air angle die grinder w/ small sandpaper pad w/ plastic screw insert. main mount had been flush seated good, should have no side to side movement. Just take your time!!

top tongue need, cut about 1/2 inches , just above welding, from that, main tongue weld to main mount.