Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

I realize it's hard to picture using that diagram because it is a diagram of the cover. Just to be clear, bearing #17 is pressed into the case itself and not the actual cover. The seal is over the bearing so the seal too is in the case and not in the cover. I need to get the bearing seated more into the case which means I need to get the seal out first.

You needed to show the engine case not the trans cover for that bearing and seal. #17 and 20.

I can put a final drive set in it if you want a pic of it clearing it installed with that much depth on the outside of the bearing. It really takes a lot of brute force to jar the bearing back, did you have to knock the shaft out with a hammer? They usually just fall or tap lightly out. I just got home this morning and cant seem to find my gap gauge set at the house or Id be able to tell you how far it is apart.

Yea sorry about that. Didn't think it was the bearing at the time when I first created this post and included the diagram of the cover. But yea looking at your picture my bearing definitely isn't seated fully. Need to get the seal out in a way that I can reuse it. And then get the bearing seated more. Gonna be tough though because I have my new crank and the cases pressed together already and everything. So I can't just throw the case in the oven and tap the bearing in. Gonna have to get the bearing seated without heat. Maybe I can pour some boiling water around the bearing area to help it hear up.

I think the bearing somehow got unseated when I put the cases in the oven. Aluminum expands faster than steel so maybe the case expanded causing the bearing to drop down a bit. The final drive shaft came out easily.

Just pry the seal out with a screw driver. You'll be fine. I doubt hot water will make any difference. It will still go in, it's just easier when heated. I just tap them in cold, I've never heated it to make it easier. Never had to as they always go in.

spreeinkc wrote:Just pry the seal out with a screw driver. You'll be fine. I doubt hot water will make any difference. It will still go in, it's just easier when heated. I just tap them in cold, I've never heated it to make it easier. Never had to as they always go in.

Agreed. Always drive all the bearings in at room temp. including crank bearings. It tells you in the service manual to drive them in. Use a socket that is just smaller than the outer race to drive it in.
Only do this on a solid flat surface, like a cement block, or a steel table or anvil. Use a 2lb-5lb. hammer. You may have to remove the brake arm, for sure the shoes have to go.

Got the seal out and tapped the bearing in. Now the cover is installed correctly and I'm very happy! Thanks for all the help guys!

Congrats, glad it all worked out!Now get some pics of that bad boy after its together.

don't want to sound stupid BUT you do know that the bearing end on early(94-98)final drive is 15mm as opposed to 16.5mm on late (99-01) just tell me to shut-up