Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Greetings:

Just a hunch, but you realize that the belt cover gasket isn't just cosmetic, don't you? It performs a critical spacing function for the Bendix. Without a gasket, the ends of the Bendix shaft are pinched when you tighten the cover down, making it very hard to turn. You can check by loosening the belt cover bolts about 1 turn and see if that improves turnover rate.

I am aware of the need for the gasket. I posted in this thread because the video is very similar to my problem. When the plug is in, the starter struggles to turn the engine. Without the plug, the starter can turn the engine without a problem.

jsun3thousand wrote:I am aware of the need for the gasket. I posted in this thread because the video is very similar to my problem. When the plug is in, the starter struggles to turn the engine. Without the plug, the starter can turn the engine without a problem.

Because with the plug in there is 100+ pounds of compression to fight the starter. DOHA! Put a volt meter on the battery. If the voltage is below 12.6 volts before cranking the battery is weak. If it is around 12.8 volts it is so-so. In the two former conditions, charge the battery for 6 hours at 2 amps or less or over night at 500 milliamps . If it is 13 volts and above it is good. Now with a good,charged battery, with the meter connected to the battery, crank the engine over with plug in. Voltage should not drop below 10.5 volts, if the battery was good to start with then either bad connection (don't forget to check that the ground connections are clean and tight too). The solenoid is bad (not likely) or the starter is bad. If your battery is a weak sister after charging and waiting an hour to voltage test it again, you should replace it.

I charged the battery last night. After charging the battery tested at 13.5 volts. During cranking the battery dropped to 11.5 volts.

When I first had this problem I bought a used starter motor from Greg that he guaranteed. After installing the starter motor the same problem continued.

So far the battery and starter motor are good. What comes next? Could there be a short?

jsun3thousand wrote:I charged the battery last night. After charging the battery tested at 13.5 volts. During cranking the battery dropped to 11.5 volts.

When I first had this problem I bought a used starter motor from Greg that he guaranteed. After installing the starter motor the same problem continued.

So far the battery and starter motor are good. What comes next? Could there be a short?

No short, if there was there would be smoke and a quickly dying battery.

You need to take apart all the connections at the battery, the starter solenoid and the starter, clean them and reconnect them making sure they are tight. Don't forget the ground from the battery to the frame and the frame to the starter. While you are at it, omhs check the wires too.

The problem still continues.

I redid the connections at the battery terminals. They looked a little worn out.

I checked all the connections between the battery and the starter motor: at the relay and the starter motor. Clean.

I checked the ground from battery to the frame. Clean.

I checked the ground from the starter motor to the frame. Clean

What should I be looking for when I the check wires with the ohm meter?

In other news:

I took off the drive and bendix and the starter motor spun fast. Put everything back together and the starter motor can spin the everything without a load. Once I put my finger over the spark plug hole, the starter struggles. Would it be wise to run the starter off the battery to see if it can even work properly? This problem is driving me crazy.

A good wire will show way less that an ohm ov resistance.

A better way to test for a bad wire is crank the scooter while checking the voltage on both sides of the starter solenoid and at the starter itself. If there is a big voltage drop across a wire segment or part, it is probably your problem. For the ground side do the same thing. The difference between battery voltage when cranking and voltage at the starter should be less than 1/2 volt.

How do I test the voltage of a wire on the starter relay while cranking?

The probe into the back side of the plug on the solenoid will find the pin for voltage testing.

tony dz wrote:We'll if the starter wasn't bad before, it is now... I fried it... I connected the battery straight to the starter.. it seemed to turn a bit stronger, but still not strong or fast enough to start it.. The wires got pretty warm, saw a few sparks, and eventually fried the starter.. Pulled the starter of to confirm... It's dead.

So why would this have fried my starter? Did I do somthing wrong or is this a sign I had a bad starter to begin with?

As to the previous question... the engine seems to turn over easy by hand. Haven't done this before so not sure what to expect but it seems to turn smooth. It does get more difficult as you move through the rotation as pressure builds inside the cylinder. Think this is normal, correct?

Definatley doesn't feel like anything is binding.

If you put power to a motor and it can not turn over or turns over slow, the amps turn into heat and eventually melt the insulation and then there is a direct short which pulls more amps and fries everything. If it turns over slow, remove the power ASAP.

I got a similar volt reading on the relay as I did on the battery. I did notice that my battery is not holding a charge very well. This is a new battery. I'm going to keep close track of the battery voltage tomorrow.

Here is another thread just like my problem with no solution. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7469&hilit=cranking ... e&start=30

jsun3thousand wrote:Here is another thread just like my problem with no solution. viewtopic.php?f=3&t=7469&hilit=cranking ... e&start=30

Correction, no solution was found because a knowledgeable person is not there to check out and work on the problem first hand. This over the INTERNET troubleshooting is major league tough.