Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

I agree with bear, way too lean. Make sure your jet needle is in either the third or forth position. I would also try a 105 and 110 main jet to rich en your air/fuel mixture at WOT . For better take off try your air screw at 1/2 turns out.

Gingerbread Man wrote:I agree with bear, way too lean. Make sure your jet needle is in either the third or forth position. I would also try a 105 and 110 main jet to rich en your air/fuel mixture at WOT . For better take off try your air screw at 1/2 turns out.

At WOT the needle has NOTHING to do with the mixture. It is totally retracted from the just at anything above 3/4 to 7/8 throotle depending on clip position, but in either case WOT the needle does not matter.

Yeah i know that but for his midrange 1/4 - 3/4 which the needle affects is still important. I would hate to see a brand new 48mm kit fry.

OK Just to clear things up.....this test was not done on my 48mm spree.

The member red spree and I were trying to tune his today.

These plugs came form his engine. The plug that came out from the break in (100 jet) was a nice chocolate brown.


We put the a brand new plug in, put a 90 jet in and went 1/2 mile at WOT.

We put the a brand new plug again, reinstalled the 100 jet, and went on the same 1/2 mile WOT run.

Thes are #6 ngk's are they too hot of a plug?

yes! run a 8 plug and use a b8hs or br8hs that has the shorter porcelain.

bakaracer wrote:yes! run a 8 plug and use a b8hs or br8hs that has the shorter porcelain.

All the shorter porcelain does is make it take longer to color. If he is doing the plug chop properly (I have to believe he know how to do this by now) there is no need to do more than go with a cooler plug.

Bear45-70 wrote:

bakaracer wrote:yes! run a 8 plug and use a b8hs or br8hs that has the shorter porcelain.

All the shorter porcelain does is make it take longer to color. If he is doing the plug chop properly (I have to believe he know how to do this by now) there is no need to do more than go with a cooler plug.

I have actually never done a plug chop with such a short trip.

I have always gone about 2.5 - 3 miles and then looked at the plug.

But I am being x-tra careful with the 48mm kits cause no one else has advice on where to start with these.

Trafficjamz wrote:

Bear45-70 wrote:

bakaracer wrote:yes! run a 8 plug and use a b8hs or br8hs that has the shorter porcelain.

All the shorter porcelain does is make it take longer to color. If he is doing the plug chop properly (I have to believe he know how to do this by now) there is no need to do more than go with a cooler plug.

I have actually never done a plug chop with such a short trip.

I have always gone about 2.5 - 3 miles and then looked at the plug.

But I am being x-tra careful with the 48mm kits cause no one else has advice on where to start with these.

If you can't get a plug reading in 1/4 mile, you are too d*** lean to be running a mile, much less several miles.

Bear45-70 wrote:

bakaracer wrote:yes! run a 8 plug and use a b8hs or br8hs that has the shorter porcelain.

All the shorter porcelain does is make it take longer to color. If he is doing the plug chop properly (I have to believe he know how to do this by now) there is no need to do more than go with a cooler plug.

the length of the porcelain is determines heat range.the longer the porcelain the more heat it retains. has nothing to do with how long it takes for it to color.they color at the same rate.

bakaracer wrote:

Bear45-70 wrote:

bakaracer wrote:yes! run a 8 plug and use a b8hs or br8hs that has the shorter porcelain.

All the shorter porcelain does is make it take longer to color. If he is doing the plug chop properly (I have to believe he know how to do this by now) there is no need to do more than go with a cooler plug.

the length of the porcelain is determines heat range.the longer the porcelain the more heat it retains. has nothing to do with how long it takes for it to color.they color at the same rate.

Most definitely not true. By your theory a surface gap plug would color as fast as an extended tip plug and that just doesn't hold water. The farther the plug tip extends into the cylinder the more effected it is by the mixture.

All the shorter porcelain does is make it take longer to color. If he is doing the plug chop properly (I have to believe he know how to do this by now) there is no need to do more than go with a cooler plug.[/quote]
the length of the porcelain is determines heat range.the longer the porcelain the more heat it retains. has nothing to do with how long it takes for it to color.they color at the same rate.[/quote]

Most definitely not true. By your theory a surface gap plug would color as fast as an extended tip plug and that just doesn't hold water. The farther the plug tip extends into the cylinder the more effected it is by the mixture.[/quote]
if you say so. but a prodruding plug also has a longer porcelain which he doesn't need. and I have done lots of plug chops and I'm tell from experience that the short porcelain will color in just about the same time as a longer porcelain and in the case that he is running over 2 miles is more than enoug time.

I will try a #8 plug in my 48mm bigbore tomorrow.

I will post pics too. Tomorrow is a dragrace day so expect pics late late friday night.

Maybe if I can get the jetting close, I will take my 48mm spree down the 1/8th mile track.

That will give people an idea of how quick the 48mm kits make the spree.

what are you running for pre-mix ?

hey bear,


you said air screw out 1/2 turn, how far out would you put the idle screw ?

john wrote:hey bear,


you said air screw out 1/2 turn, how far out would you put the idle screw ?

Actually gingerbread said that, but turning the screw in makes the idle mixture richer but about 1/8 throttle the idle screw has no effect anymore.