Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Saxonthebeach wrote:My battery has 11V in it. With the wire hooked up through the fuse I am getting 11V to the ignition switch. With a wire going straight from the battery to the switch, the starter tries to start the scooter. I only get the voltage readings through the fuse when the ignition is in the ON position.

You need to charge your battery. There isnt enough juice in the battery to turn the starter

Well It does when I hook it up direct. How can my battery be too low when I hook it up direct and it runs the starter, but through the fuse, it does nothing? And if the battery isn't high enough to run the starter, wouldn't the horn sound and lights still light up???

Saxonthebeach wrote:Well It does when I hook it up direct. How can my battery be too low when I hook it up direct and it runs the starter, but through the fuse, it does nothing? And if the battery isn't high enough to run the starter, wouldn't the horn sound and lights still light up???

If you only have 11volts then your lights probably wouldnt light up. If they do then they would be really dim

I don't know if you are understanding what I'm saying... If I run a wire directly from the battery, which is at 11V, to the ignition, the lights and horn work, and the starter tries to kick over, but slow. That means I need a charge, I get that. What I'm saying is that when I connect the scooters wiring the correct way, I record voltages at the ignition of 11V, but the lights and horn don't work, and the starter doesn't try to kick over at all. Which leads me to believe there is something else wrong...How am I getting voltages there, but nothing happens?

Saxonthebeach wrote:I don't know if you are understanding what I'm saying... If I run a wire directly from the battery, which is at 11V, to the ignition, the lights and horn work, and the starter tries to kick over, but slow. That means I need a charge, I get that. What I'm saying is that when I connect the scooters wiring the correct way, I record voltages at the ignition of 11V, but the lights and horn don't work, and the starter doesn't try to kick over at all. Which leads me to believe there is something else wrong...How am I getting voltages there, but nothing happens?

Try running your new wire to the black side of the plug instead of the red side. That will bypass your ignition. if that works then your ignition isnt working.

There is a bad or loose connection somewhere

Make sure both terminals on the battery are tight.

Recheck the fuse/holder for corrosion or loose connections.

I assume you are using a DVM and not a test light.

Switch the meter to ohms, and test the resistance between the negative battery terminal and the green wire that is in the ignition harness.

If it should be zero (or very close to it).

Do the same ohm check between the negative terminal on the battery and the thick green wire near the starter too.

FYI, the CDI ignition does not need the battery to work, When the engine turns over it creates it's own voltage, no battery necessary. An electronic magneto for all intents and purposes.

I am using a DVM. I didn't think that this would be quite as much of a hassle as it's turning out to be.... Any other thoughts on the subject? (BTW, all of you are being very helpful! I wouldn't of made it half as far as I have gotten on this thing if it wasn't for y'all. Thanks!)

Trafficjamz wrote:
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Nyan cat! i knew i was missing something.

Saxonthebeach wrote:I am using a DVM. I didn't think that this would be quite as much of a hassle as it's turning out to be.... Any other thoughts on the subject? (BTW, all of you are being very helpful! I wouldn't of made it half as far as I have gotten on this thing if it wasn't for y'all. Thanks!)

So its working without the fuse and doesnt work with the fuse?

Yes, but with the fuse, i am still getting voltage to the ignition.

If when using jumper wire from battery to switch everything works fine, then change the battery to fuse wire. and possibly the fuse holder. bound to be some corrosion that allows the voltage to flow but not the amperage.

I cant believe this thread got to be 4 pages!

Read my post: good battery but no voltage

I think its the answer to the problems presented here, and fairly easy to fix.

-SP

The wire from the battery to the fuse was messed up. I replaced that wire and used my car to jump it, after not running for 10 years, it took the starter about 10 times around before it fired right up. It's in pieces, but I still rode it around like block about 20 times! And being a 1984, carrying my 240lb *, it still got up to 25 before the rev limiter kicked in!!!

i think the rev limiter is the 240lb * becase spree dont have one
spree are fast moped 30 if your lucky
dont for get to brush the bug out of you teath
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