Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

Dumb question:

So it's okay to re-drill holes through the fiberglass/ABS?
Is there any sort of special technique?
I definitely don't wanna screw this part up and have to start over.

Thanks!

RustyShackelford wrote:Dumb question:

So it's okay to re-drill holes through the fiberglass/ABS?
Is there any sort of special technique?
I definitely don't wanna screw this part up and have to start over.

Thanks!

You can and I have. Nothing other then a regular drill bit is needed.
It is a scooter sin to alter super nice panels though.
Why are you drilling into them if you don't mind me asking?

novs86 wrote:

RustyShackelford wrote:Dumb question:

So it's okay to re-drill holes through the fiberglass/ABS?
Is there any sort of special technique?
I definitely don't wanna screw this part up and have to start over.

Thanks!

You can and I have. Nothing other then a regular drill bit is needed.
It is a scooter sin to alter super nice panels though.
Why are you drilling into them if you don't mind me asking?

Oh I'm not altering anything.
Just fixing broken screw holes.

Thanks for the help!

there is a ton of real good info in here just its all broken up with idle chit chat can someone make a new thread with BODY REPAIR TIPS that we can just reference? I have a TON of body repair to do, i think i can get there from here but it may be something sombody will like to see.

Videonut

Videonut wrote:there is a ton of real good info in here just its all broken up with idle chit chat can someone make a new thread with BODY REPAIR TIPS that we can just reference? I have a TON of body repair to do, i think i can get there from here but it may be something sombody will like to see.

Videonut

Maybe some industrious person... I choose you ... might go through the tread, pulling the meat out and then ask the moderator to post it with a sticky and freeze the post.

Lunytune wrote:

Videonut wrote:there is a ton of real good info in here just its all broken up with idle chit chat can someone make a new thread with BODY REPAIR TIPS that we can just reference? I have a TON of body repair to do, i think i can get there from here but it may be something sombody will like to see.

Videonut

Maybe some industrious person... I choose you ... might go through the tread, pulling the meat out and then ask the moderator to post it with a sticky and freeze the post.

Me?? well ok i can do the cut and paiste i just dont know how to post and freeze it. And i am getting this info so i can fix up my scooter, so i am not sure what is the best way to do these things but ill do the cut and paste, and someone will tell me how to post and freeze it.

Videonut

Videonut wrote:

Lunytune wrote:

Videonut wrote:there is a ton of real good info in here just its all broken up with idle chit chat can someone make a new thread with BODY REPAIR TIPS that we can just reference? I have a TON of body repair to do, i think i can get there from here but it may be something sombody will like to see.

Videonut

Maybe some industrious person... I choose you ... might go through the tread, pulling the meat out and then ask the moderator to post it with a sticky and freeze the post.

Me?? well ok i can do the cut and paiste i just dont know how to post and freeze it. And i am getting this info so i can fix up my scooter, so i am not sure what is the best way to do these things but ill do the cut and paste, and someone will tell me how to post and freeze it. Videonut

WHEELMAN!!!
Now where is that Guy when you really need him?

Greetings:

I'd do it but I can't find the door in my computer so I can change the 8-Track cassette.

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

I'd do it but I can't find the door in my computer so I can change the 8-Track cassette.

OK i copied it all with some editing and i think it is good i will post it to a new post if you want or i can pm it to ya

Videonut

Sorry if i didnt put props to who acctually wrote the AWSOME info in this but it can be updated with that info if needed

Videonut

Is it absolutely positively necessary to let ABS Cement dry for a full week before painting? I'm doing my ABS repair today and have 4 sunny days ahead of me. Which is extremely rare in Oregon, I was hoping to take advantage of it.

I won't rush it if it's truly vital, but I didn't know if that was just being super extra certain safe or what was required. On the can it states a mere 2 hours cure time, but if it's anything like "2 hrs to handle" paint it's not solid till 24hrs. I realize these are instructions for pipe though and not scooter panels, but still.

LocoParaHonda wrote:On the can it states a mere 2 hours cure time, but if it's anything like "2 hrs to handle" paint it's not solid till 24hrs. I realize these are instructions for pipe though and not scooter panels, but still.

Well, there's curing enough to hold water and then there's curing enough to paint over.

The cemented area is still relatively soft until all the MEK and other solvents migrate and evaporate out of the plastic. I'd keep the panels in a warm place and wait at least 2 days before risking it. I've painted too early and got little bubbles develop in the paint, though I guess that may be dependent upon the kind of paint used.

Clivester wrote:The cemented area is still relatively soft until all the MEK and other solvents migrate and evaporate out of the plastic. I'd keep the panels in a warm place and wait at least 2 days before risking it. I've painted too early and got little bubbles develop in the paint, though I guess that may be dependent upon the kind of paint used.

sigh. ok. I'll probably meet in the middle and wait like 4 days. My main complaint is not being able to ride my scooter while all this is drying. I can live riding without the back panels on, but without all the front end plastics it would look pretty ratty.

Not to mention I still can't figure out how to get off the freagin steering stem. The front fender needs an ABS repair and I can't figure out how to get off the main bolt because the brake and speedometer cables are both sticking out of it and have fat ends, so I can't get a socket over them onto the bolt, and a wrench can't get inside the tight space. Anybody know how you're suppose to do this? The only way I could repair the fender while it's still on the bike is to take off the wheel and turn the whole ped upside down, which I hear you're really not supposed to do.



One other question - the two cracks in the front fender are side by side and it goes down a bit in between them. Is there a way to clamp them into place or something while your doing an abs repair to make it flat? I don't know if I could layer up enough abs on top to fill it all in and even if I could I'd be worried about weakening the surrounding plastic by having a super thick abs patch in the middle of it.

If you have a couple of G-clamps available that will fit over the repair area you can clamp it together using a "sandwich" technique. The sandwich consists of the panel in the center, then on each side a layer of something that will not stick to the ABS (aluminum foil works fairly well*), then a sheet of thick cardboard on each side makes up the bread layer. Use the clamps to press everything together to keep it level until the cement sets in about 4 hours.

* I have some teflon fabric that works well for the non-stick layer, if you pm me I'll send some to beautiful Portland, but I sense you have a timing issue.

Is the back of the repair exposed? If not, you can use a layer of woven fiberglass to reinforce it. Once the ABS cement is dry its as strong as the surrounding plastic.

If you still have a depression in the area of the cracks you can build it up with the ABS cement. Add a thin layer, wait 1/2 hour, add more, etc. Its better to do it in thin layers because the thicker its applied the longer it takes to set. Add a little more than you think it needs because it shrinks a little as it sets.