tommy9345 wrote:To bear about unsoldering the ignition, I did it to first find out the VIN number on the ignition and to hotwire it, I thought itd be easier if I had all the wires out to work with. What are detailed instructions to grounding the wires and putting them together to start/have all electronics working? Would it be easier if I just soldered the ignition back in and drilled out the tumbler so I can start it with a flathead? Sorry Im asking so many questions, I'm a complete noob to these kinds of things.
And Ill get those pictures of the inside and out of the cover. Im over a friends right now.
Sure drill out the tumbles and come back and find your scooter gone.
What part of this didn't you understand? "So jumper the Red and the Black (NO STRIPE) wire together and all you electrics will work."
Don't solder the d*** wires, as you have to turn the power off when you are done or the battery will be dead in the morning.
If you connect the the Green and Black with white stripe wires together you will shut off the motor. Grounding (the Green wire is ground) the Black with white stripe wire is how the ignition is shut off to stop the motor.
Bear 45/70
'83 Aero 80 X 3
'84 Aero 80 X 3 '85 Aero 80 '84 Aero 125 X 2
'84 Aero 125 '84 Aero 125 X 2 '85 Aero 50
'85 Spree
tommy9345 wrote:To bear about unsoldering the ignition, I did it to first find out the VIN number on the ignition and to hotwire it, I thought itd be easier if I had all the wires out to work with. What are detailed instructions to grounding the wires and putting them together to start/have all electronics working? Would it be easier if I just soldered the ignition back in and drilled out the tumbler so I can start it with a flathead? Sorry Im asking so many questions, I'm a complete noob to these kinds of things.
And Ill get those pictures of the inside and out of the cover. Im over a friends right now.
Sure drill out the tumbles and come back and find your scooter gone.
What part of this didn't you understand? "So jumper the Red and the Black (NO STRIPE) wire together and all you electrics will work."
Don't solder the d*** wires, as you have to turn the power off when you are done or the battery will be dead in the morning.
If you connect the the Green and Black with white stripe wires together you will shut off the motor. Grounding (the Green wire is ground) the Black with white stripe wire is how the ignition is shut off to stop the motor.
Ok. I did that with a battery in and I got nothing. No lights, no starter, no horn, nothing. I'm gonna go to work and have the 6v battery charge on a 1.5amp trickle charger I got yesterday. 4 hours isnt too dangerous to let it charge for, right? And is there anyway I can test if the starter even works? I think theres something wrong with the electrical system
For compression testing purposes, I made a jumper cable with a female spade connector at one end and an eye over the + terminal of a spare battery I have. With the lead connected to the male at the starter, you can just "jam" the negative terminal up against the housing to complete the circuit. That's your "switch"! Use thick 10g wire and watch your fingers if anything is disassembled.
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Wheelman-111
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
For compression testing purposes, I made a jumper cable with a female spade connector at one end and an eye over the + terminal of a spare battery I have. With the lead connected to the male at the starter, you can just "jam" the negative terminal up against the housing to complete the circuit. That's your "switch"! Use thick 10g wire and watch your fingers if anything is disassembled.
Im pretty sure the compressions good, my problem is theres not even a response when I try to start it, no lights or anything. Something is wrong in the electrics I think. What would cause these symtpoms?
Bad battery, bad connection(s), bad fuse, bad relay, more bad connections. You can test the starter motor directly as illustrated above. Beyond that, it's hard to say without results.
Wheelman-111
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
Bad battery, bad connection(s), bad fuse, bad relay, more bad connections. You can test the starter motor directly as illustrated above. Beyond that, it's hard to say without results.
But HOW exactly do I test the starter motor. How many fuses are there that could be blown and where is the relay?
(?)
See pic above. If you make contact and it spins, it ain't the starter.
Dunno where Honda-san hid the relay on the Spree, but others can help. One fuse, conspicuously located feeds to the tail-light, fuel gauge, and enables turn signals and horn. The headlamp needs a running engine, as do the instrument lamps. Don't forget that you do need to depress at least one brake lever to enable the starter. Locking the Parking Brake works for me.
Wheelman-111
Most of my money is spent on scooterparts. The rest is just wasted.
"ISO": '03 Vespa ET4 Malossi187 74MPH
Flash 9: 2001 Elite SR Contesta 72 ZX Tran, 9:1 Gears, Stock Airbox/Carb/Pipe 58.8 MPH
Punkin: 2010 Vespa/Malossi S78, 61MPH
Bad battery, bad connection(s), bad fuse, bad relay, more bad connections. You can test the starter motor directly as illustrated above. Beyond that, it's hard to say without results.
But HOW exactly do I test the starter motor. How many fuses are there that could be blown and where is the relay?
There is no point in testing the starter until you have a known good 12 volt battery, a good fuse in the fuse holder and the tail lights come on when you turn the key on. Oh and the starter is not gonna work with a 6 volt battery. Electricity is simple E = IR, where E= volts, I = current or amps if you prefer and R = resistance. In this case the resistance is the starter motor and the voltage is the 6 volts which means the amp demand has got to double for the motor to run an it is doubtful there is that many amps in a mini 6 volt battery. Get the right battery for the Spree, the number is for the '84-'85 Spree, XT4L-B or a XT4L-BS for a sealed battery (my choice) or the XTAX4L-BS for the '86-'87.
Bear 45/70
'83 Aero 80 X 3
'84 Aero 80 X 3 '85 Aero 80 '84 Aero 125 X 2
'84 Aero 125 '84 Aero 125 X 2 '85 Aero 50
'85 Spree
So what would be the method for testing the starter, I did find it and I have it disconnected, I have something that looks like a little plug with 2 prongs on it connected to the starter, what would I connect to it to test it.
tommy9345 wrote:So what would be the method for testing the starter, I did find it and I have it disconnected, I have something that looks like a little plug with 2 prongs on it connected to the starter, what would I connect to it to test it.
Look at the picture that wheel man posted if you look long enough I am sure you can figure it out.
But first like bear said get a knownGOOD12v Battery and a good fuse.
Use thick 10g wire and watch your fingers if anything is disassembled.