Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

tommy9345 wrote:To bear about unsoldering the ignition, I did it to first find out the VIN number on the ignition and to hotwire it, I thought itd be easier if I had all the wires out to work with. What are detailed instructions to grounding the wires and putting them together to start/have all electronics working? Would it be easier if I just soldered the ignition back in and drilled out the tumbler so I can start it with a flathead? Sorry Im asking so many questions, I'm a complete noob to these kinds of things.

And Ill get those pictures of the inside and out of the cover. Im over a friends right now.

Sure drill out the tumbles and come back and find your scooter gone.

What part of this didn't you understand? "So jumper the Red and the Black (NO STRIPE) wire together and all you electrics will work."

Don't solder the d*** wires, as you have to turn the power off when you are done or the battery will be dead in the morning.

If you connect the the Green and Black with white stripe wires together you will shut off the motor. Grounding (the Green wire is ground) the Black with white stripe wire is how the ignition is shut off to stop the motor.

I think tommy is a forum bot that was created to * bear off

kpa2004 wrote:I think tommy is a forum bot that was created to * bear off

The incorrect hot wiring information I gave Tommy doesn't help the situation either.

Bear45-70 wrote:

tommy9345 wrote:To bear about unsoldering the ignition, I did it to first find out the VIN number on the ignition and to hotwire it, I thought itd be easier if I had all the wires out to work with. What are detailed instructions to grounding the wires and putting them together to start/have all electronics working? Would it be easier if I just soldered the ignition back in and drilled out the tumbler so I can start it with a flathead? Sorry Im asking so many questions, I'm a complete noob to these kinds of things.

And Ill get those pictures of the inside and out of the cover. Im over a friends right now.

Sure drill out the tumbles and come back and find your scooter gone.

What part of this didn't you understand? "So jumper the Red and the Black (NO STRIPE) wire together and all you electrics will work."

Don't solder the d*** wires, as you have to turn the power off when you are done or the battery will be dead in the morning.

If you connect the the Green and Black with white stripe wires together you will shut off the motor. Grounding (the Green wire is ground) the Black with white stripe wire is how the ignition is shut off to stop the motor.

Ok. I did that with a battery in and I got nothing. No lights, no starter, no horn, nothing. I'm gonna go to work and have the 6v battery charge on a 1.5amp trickle charger I got yesterday. 4 hours isnt too dangerous to let it charge for, right? And is there anyway I can test if the starter even works? I think theres something wrong with the electrical system

Where are you located? Maybe someone is close that can give you a hand.

Wow, A 5 page topic over 2 days.

did you say 6v battery?

there are no 6v electronics on the spree.

Hook up 12v directly to the starter to test it.

I live in Eastern Mass, near Boston.

And where would I hook 12v up to it? Where exactly would I hook it up to the starter?

Greetings:

For compression testing purposes, I made a jumper cable with a female spade connector at one end and an eye over the + terminal of a spare battery I have. With the lead connected to the male at the starter, you can just "jam" the negative terminal up against the housing to complete the circuit. That's your "switch"! Use thick 10g wire and watch your fingers if anything is disassembled.

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

For compression testing purposes, I made a jumper cable with a female spade connector at one end and an eye over the + terminal of a spare battery I have. With the lead connected to the male at the starter, you can just "jam" the negative terminal up against the housing to complete the circuit. That's your "switch"! Use thick 10g wire and watch your fingers if anything is disassembled.

Im pretty sure the compressions good, my problem is theres not even a response when I try to start it, no lights or anything. Something is wrong in the electrics I think. What would cause these symtpoms?

Greetings:

Bad battery, bad connection(s), bad fuse, bad relay, more bad connections. You can test the starter motor directly as illustrated above. Beyond that, it's hard to say without results.

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

Bad battery, bad connection(s), bad fuse, bad relay, more bad connections. You can test the starter motor directly as illustrated above. Beyond that, it's hard to say without results.

But HOW exactly do I test the starter motor. How many fuses are there that could be blown and where is the relay?

Greetings:

Tommy axt:

But HOW exactly do I test the starter motor.

(?)
See pic above. If you make contact and it spins, it ain't the starter.

Dunno where Honda-san hid the relay on the Spree, but others can help. One fuse, conspicuously located feeds to the tail-light, fuel gauge, and enables turn signals and horn. The headlamp needs a running engine, as do the instrument lamps. Don't forget that you do need to depress at least one brake lever to enable the starter. Locking the Parking Brake works for me.

tommy9345 wrote:

Wheelman-111 wrote:Greetings:

Bad battery, bad connection(s), bad fuse, bad relay, more bad connections. You can test the starter motor directly as illustrated above. Beyond that, it's hard to say without results.

But HOW exactly do I test the starter motor. How many fuses are there that could be blown and where is the relay?

There is no point in testing the starter until you have a known good 12 volt battery, a good fuse in the fuse holder and the tail lights come on when you turn the key on. Oh and the starter is not gonna work with a 6 volt battery. Electricity is simple E = IR, where E= volts, I = current or amps if you prefer and R = resistance. In this case the resistance is the starter motor and the voltage is the 6 volts which means the amp demand has got to double for the motor to run an it is doubtful there is that many amps in a mini 6 volt battery. Get the right battery for the Spree, the number is for the '84-'85 Spree, XT4L-B or a XT4L-BS for a sealed battery (my choice) or the XTAX4L-BS for the '86-'87.

So what would be the method for testing the starter, I did find it and I have it disconnected, I have something that looks like a little plug with 2 prongs on it connected to the starter, what would I connect to it to test it.

tommy9345 wrote:So what would be the method for testing the starter, I did find it and I have it disconnected, I have something that looks like a little plug with 2 prongs on it connected to the starter, what would I connect to it to test it.

Look at the picture that wheel man posted if you look long enough I am sure you can figure it out.
But first like bear said get a known GOOD 12v Battery and a good fuse.