Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

yeah if the compression is to high,when the engine heats up and the rpms goes up so does the compresion and over heating start to happen at the head and also some pssible knocking.the only way to help improve those problems is to either up the octane so go to race gas 104 -114 octane or lower the compression to run pump gas.

Just tested the 40 slow jet and 160 main jet, and the bike runs like a scalded ape with no bogging. I also was able to adjust my float where no fuel comes out of the overflow tube.

There is one thing that I noticed, and that was when I accelerated to 50 km/h, and let off the gas the bike still seemed to be on the throttle for the tiniest amount of time. I'm pretty sure there is not an air leak since I tested before I installed the motor on the bike, and it doesn't happen at any other time.

I'll check the plug once the bike cools down.

sanjuro wrote:Just tested the 40 slow jet and 160 main jet, and the bike runs like a scalded ape with no bogging. I also was able to adjust my float where no fuel comes out of the overflow tube.

There is one thing that I noticed, and that was when I accelerated to 50 km/h, and let off the gas the bike still seemed to be on the throttle for the tiniest amount of time. I'm pretty sure there is not an air leak since I tested before I installed the motor on the bike, and it doesn't happen at any other time.

I'll check the plug once the bike cools down.

Victor it probably is the trans still engaged or disengaging.. Also you might wanna test for air leaks again just to make sure because when the motor heats up everything expands and there might be a seal that's not seated well.. that's what happened to me on one occasion.. It would run fine till I hit top speeds and hear a little tinging/crackling sound... brought the bike home did a smoke test with a redline smoke leak detector and wallah stator side seal leak

Greetings:

Lean midrange or main? Checking the plug is always a good idea for a ballpark. Maybe hit the Kill at the symptomatic speed? Raise (richen) the needle to get more information. I've got a 180 in the ministroker and it's not stupid-rich. Now I'm re-thinking my Pilot - the biggest I ordered was 35!

elite_dub wrote:Victor it probably is the trans still engaged or disengaging...

Jay,

That's what I was thinking too. I have the Malossi torsion controller, Malossi torque drive, and the Chameleon seal collar/bearing setup (http://www.webike.net/sm/1352339/17/).

I will do a leak test still.

Wheelman-111 wrote:Lean midrange or main? Checking the plug is always a good idea for a ballpark. Maybe hit the Kill at the symptomatic speed? Raise (richen) the needle to get more information. I've got a 180 in the ministroker and it's not stupid-rich. Now I'm re-thinking my Pilot - the biggest I ordered was 35!

The Dio doesn't come with a kill switch. I'll check the plug too. Also, I am wondering if I over-adjusted the float and the motor is leaning out on the topend?

sanjuro wrote:Just tested the 40 slow jet and 160 main jet, and the bike runs like a scalded ape with no bogging. I also was able to adjust my float where no fuel comes out of the overflow tube.

There is one thing that I noticed, and that was when I accelerated to 50 km/h, and let off the gas the bike still seemed to be on the throttle for the tiniest amount of time. I'm pretty sure there is not an air leak since I tested before I installed the motor on the bike, and it doesn't happen at any other time.

I'll check the plug once the bike cools down.

do a wot plug chop to see where your at.

Is there a write-up on how this is done?

1. warm the engine up
2. after the engine is warmed up put a new plug in
3. get up to speed and hold wot for 3-5 seconds
4. once you reach your 3-5 second wot. hit the kill switch and at the same time hold the throttle wide open and try and come to a complete stop as fast as you can.that way less fuel will not get on the plug to give you a false reading.
5. pull the plug and look at the electrode and ground strap and also at the base of the porcelain should have a smoke ring.

5. pull the plug and look at the electrode and ground strap and also at the base of the porcelain should have a smoke ring


this is where you get a flashlight and a magnifying glass.. this is where the true reading comes from

Victor sent you a PM

My bike doesn't have a kill switch. Any alterations in the method of doing the plug chop?

just turn the key off

Greetings:

Plug chops are very popular among Harley tuners. I've done a number of them myself. The recipe calls for pulling in the clutch as you cut ignition. Otherwise the engine keeps pulling in unburnt mixture as it winds down, washing away your reading.

Since that's not possible with our automatic scooters, the only way I see around it isn't a very good one: lock up the rear brake!

CHT and/or EGT gauge(s) beats flat-spotted tires, road rash and/or a Camry grille stamped on your *.

Anybody have a better idea?

egt tunning would be the next option but those gauges with the sensor are pricey and you will have to drill the pipe and weld a threaded collar in it for the sensor.

Ok, haven't done the plug chop yet. I just got back from riding the bike around for 15 minutes with a 40 slow jet and 170 main jet. Still, tons of clean thrust, but I'm still getting that throttle 'on' feeling at 50 km/h (31 mph). I'll test it tomorrow morning with the same jet and go up to 60 km/h (37 mph) to see if I get any bogging.