Honda Spree and Elite 50 Forums

did you ever check your rollers?

No I didnt check the rollers, because I didn't have the right tool to get the pulleys off. Everything looked spotless inside the transmission anyway so I was going to put that off to clean the carb a little. I'll run more seafoam through it but I also want to check the reed valve now. There's a guide in the manual on how to remove the carb, but I have a couple questions. First of all, does the carburetor cap just screw off? How tight should it be when put back on? Also, when I disconnect the fuel line, should I expect any fuel to come out? And when you put the mounting bolts back on what torque should you use, or just until they're snug? Also, how do you remove the cylinder head shroud? The pictures in the manual suck.

I wanted to do the seafoam method correctly this time so I actually drained the gas out of the carb, and injected a good amount of seafoam in through the idle adjust hole and let it sit. When I started it up it was as expected (lots of smoke but went away after a bit). It's a LITTLE better on the street. If you have it at full throttle for a minute, and you're going fast (when it opens up) the performance seems to be acceptable and it pulls up hills at full throttle, but HUGE amounts of blueish smoke start coming out the exhaust, and they won't stop unless you let it just idle for a few minutes. I mean THICK smoke. Is this a clue?

keep running it clean. also, see if there is oil in your tank.

You mean run it until there's no more smoke? Also, you mean oil in the gas tank right?

oil in the crank case. there could be excess oil in your crank case from sitting casueing your blue smoke problem, and mabey your whole run problem. i think that you should just keep running it until the blue smoke goes away.

I ran it more today around the street at full throttle and no matter how long it did it there was no blue smoke. The performance is the same: you full throttle and you get up to about 15mph and then it stops increasing speed and stays there but if you keep holding it down the engine note fluctuates and inches ever so slightly higher, and after a good number of seconds if you're not going up a hill it seems to get to a point where the revs get a tiny bit higher and it opens up and you fly up to top speed.

Dam even if I drain all the gas out of the carb, if I only put even a little syringeful of seafoam in through the idle screw, it starts dripping out into the airbox. What's the deal?

Ok let me phrase the whole problem a bit better and as it is now.

You turn the scooter on and maybe idle a bit and the FIRST time you get on and accelerate it goes all the way up to top speed GREAT, and it'll stay at top speed with full throttle for about 5 seconds, then it just starts slowing down and down even with the throttle all the way open until it's practically limping at 10 mph. (This is on a flat road)

that does sound like a motor problem not trans. i cant see it being the jug or anything like that because it would always be s***

d*** i dont know

Could it be a throttle problem? Like, if it's open for a certain amount of time something gets stuck or something?

it just might be your throttle cable is stretching. like at first it opens it all the say. then when you keep it there it stretches out a little causing that.

Come to think of it the throttle always HAS been funny... for instance, when you're idling and you turn the handlebars way to the right, the engine rpm increases until you turn it back forwards (throttle cable stretching?) and it has just never seemed right. What can I do to make sure the cable is working correctly/what can I adjust?

if its the stock cable i dont believe you can adjust it.
testing it....
try taking it off it off the carb. and holding that piece back . have some one ease pull the throttle back a few times. if there seems theres some type of play it might be time to replace.

Isn't there that nut up near where it connects to the handlebars that you can twist? what does that do?